Anything special on installing a U-Haul trailer hitch on one's own? Relatively easy or just better to let them do it?
Will be going on a 2007 Ford Escape.
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Anything special on installing a U-Haul trailer hitch on one's own? Relatively easy or just better to let them do it?
Will be going on a 2007 Ford Escape.
I did this type of work as a freshman in high school, first "real" job... years ago, but I doubt much has changed.
Most SUV and light duty truck installs were easy, we didn't use U-Haul brand but I doubt it's any different.
Please review weight ratings and manage your expectations before towing/carrying anything on the hitch. The below hitch is a class II, but etrailer lists class III for your vehicle as well.
As with all vehicle related work, it comes down to time, money, and personal interest in doing work on your vehicle. If it was me, I'd do it myself.
Decent video on the hitch install, although no mention of wiring:
https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-...ape-12060.aspx
Thanks for the reply.
It will only be used for hauling small trailers (no big boats or anything crazy), and I will also be getting a hitch mounted dirt bike carrier (ultimate mx hauler -- bike rests on the skid plate and is close to the vehicle).
Anyone done a self-install on the U-Haul type?
Judging by what I saw last time I was at uhaul, you should be fine. Watching those 2 guys replace ratchets on a car hauler was like watching a monkey fuck a football. They couldn't even operate a wrench correctly, and they install those hitches daily.Quote:
Originally Posted by CavSct1983
Lol. K.
I'll have a buddy help with wiring aspect. Thanks.
Lay everything out, do a mock up by holding it up to the frame then move away (with hitch supported) to stare at it a few.Quote:
Originally Posted by CavSct1983
Where it mounts up on the frame, if going where there are already existing bolts, spray some PB blaster or other rust penetrater the day before. It will make your job easier, minimizing the knuckle busters you might come away with. Having air tools and impact sockets makes the job easy on you and your hands.
Wear work gloves and eye protection. There's dirt & grit that will mysteriously find it's way in to your eyes when least expecting it.
+1 thank you, sir.Quote:
Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo
Yes, indeed on the safety glasses. Plenty of tools. The buddy who will be helping me is the same one who helped me convert a Montero to manual transmission on a model that didn't come that way in the US. To say we ended up fabricating stuff would be an understatement.
Converting a transmission is nothing. Remember... You're dealing with a U-Haul product. U-Haul is the Google of making your life miserable. U-Haul should be declared a terror organization and destroyed.
Bailey, the real reason I'm doing this is to run a circuit of Californians into Idaho, all carrying Ikea products. I only have enough room in the Escape for 17 Californians, and need the trailer for another 75. Water may or may not be provided.
Depending on the vehicle, it should only be a 15 minute job if you're by yourself. My truck had nuts welded into the frame so it was pretty simple.
If you’re not already committed to the UHaul brand, I’ve had great luck buying and then installing hitches purchased from eTrailer. I would bet that a UHaul hitch is just a relabeled Curt or Reese hitch anyway. ETrailer also usually has a plug and play trailer wiring harness available for just about anything.
As others have said, many modern vehicles already have attach points for hitches. I’ve done a half-dozen hitch installs over the years and the only one I had to have help with was on an old beater F250. I’ve got significantly more tool weaponry these days so I probably wouldn’t need help if I had it to do over today!
Always appreciate an excuse to buy more tools!
Cool, I'll look em up. I'm not beholden to UHaul.Quote:
Originally Posted by NFATrustGuy
You can likely buy a plug and play harness.Quote:
Originally Posted by CavSct1983
Any hitch is probably bolt on, probably just need an extra pair of hands.
ETA: yup, bolt on Class III https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...ll-description
I took mine to U-haul, but I probably could have done it myself. With your more modern, and way more common vehicle, I'd try it myself. Good luck.
...and ordered.Quote:
Originally Posted by brutal
Thanks to all who replied.
All of the boxes I saw at the uhaul joint had Horizon Global on them. The company that owns Reese and Draw-tite.Quote:
Originally Posted by NFATrustGuy
http://horizonglobal.com/brands
Yep. Draw-tite. Couldn’t think of that name last night when I posted.Quote:
Originally Posted by 00tec
Thanks for the link to Etrailers.com. I looked up the hitch for my Amigo (which I got lucky and Uhaul actually had one of the only ones in the country in stock at the store I picked) and when I look at the photos, mine is definitely a Curt.
I've got a line on a small trailer so I'm looking at a transmission cooler and the wiring harness now.
Just installed this. Fairly simple once we realized there were 3 different bolt sets, proper set to use depending on vehicle model.
Did you do wiring as well? I've zero experience with that part.
Check eTrailer for your specific vehicle. If your car is relatively new there’s a good chance the harness will be completely plug and play. You disconnect a few plugs and the new harness plugs inline with the existing wiring. Cutting wires not necessary. Completely reversible. I’ve been able to find a plug in harness for the last 4 or 5 cars I’ve owned.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
I picked up a plug and play harness for $54, and a transmission cooler for $85. I could have gotten a harness to spice in for $16 though. I also crawled under to see if a trailer harness was already installed, but no luck.
The splice in harness can certainly be done, but I’ve seen many of these installations become terribly unreliable with age. A person really needs to use water resistant heat shrink over all the connections and make a concerted effort to really tie the wiring in place or the $16 solution will eventually fail.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Not having to crawl around on the ground troubleshooting trailer lights will be worth every penny of the extra $38 you spent on the plug and play harness. Besides... think of all the money you’re saving by doing it yourself!
Just a word of caution about the ultimate mx hauler and other hitch carrier products on a smaller suv or other vehicle. Depending on the weight of the bike, it can really sag your rear end and cause some wonky steering. The weight of the bike is compounded by the amount the carrier sticks out from behind the hitch. I had an ultimate mx hauler and it stuck out a LOT further from my receiver than it looked in the pictures online. The bike will probably block your rear vehicle lights as well, so people behind you won't see your tail lights or brake lights. Just a few things to think about. There are a LOT of people who have reports of their experiences using various hitch haulers over on adventurerider.com.
I had an ultimate mx hauler and the standard hitch hauler style from versahaul. Ultimate mx works great! Strap that bike down with redundancy !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I didn't yet, as I wanted to make sure I was definitely getting the right thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Yep. I had its earlier iteration the moto jack rack. Kick myself for selling it. My bike is only 279 wet according to Yamaha. I might end up beefing the suspension. Unsure at this point.Quote:
Originally Posted by colorider
What is the deal with a power converter on the wiring harness? Is that so the trailer lights and tail lights don't have to share power from the same circuit? I guess I'm curious why that is available for my newer vehicle, but not my older one.
Also, on my van I have a battery right in the back that I can hook it up to, and not even mess with my main battery at all.
After seeing what is involved with the T-coupler wiring, it looks like it will be one of the most simple things I've ever installed on a vehicle. That will be a nice change.Quote:
Originally Posted by NFATrustGuy
Some systems use isolators to protect the vehicle wiring and prevent voltage drops. They may also just be a simple converter - or a combined isolator/converter, that splits a single wire brake/turn on some vehicles into a two wire for the trailer. Newer CANBUS vehicles may also report lamp errors if not properly isolated.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Modern vehicles have lighter gauge wiring that works with LED rear lights. The power converter makes sure the trailer light system does not over load the system.
When you get your trailer, wire it up with LED lights and solder and heat shrink the connections. It will be trouble free.
That's pretty much the plan.
If we're willing to turn this into a general trailer thread, I've got some 13" Carlisle tires to replace. Will I have much problem going to a 15" LT once I figure out the bolt pattern?
I don't know how small they make the Goodyear Endurance but I'll never buy another chinabomb again unless it's a heavy trailer and I buy Sailun.
Not sure you'll find a 15" wheel in the same pattern as a 13. Look around on etrailer...
I might as well get an E-trailer credit card it sounds like.
I've guided people with trailers before and had zero issues. I could tell them exactly how much to turn the wheel and everything came together wonderfully. I've never actually pulled a trailer myself though. So it was pretty disappointing that this took me like 60 tries and some coaching from my ex-truck driver neighbor. I knew there would be a learning curve, but of course assumed I wouldn't have to traverse it myself. It's not rocket science, but I don't think that a short wheel base and a short trailer were helping me much.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5h...=w1500-h915-no
At least you weren’t this guy. I watched him try for about five minutes and no telling how long he was at it before I pulled up the road. I was patient with him at first but after a few minutes he was starting to irritate me so I pulled closer and started taking pictures. Eventually he gave up and drove off and I got by. He went around the block and came back to try again.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...020c63dab5.jpg
He should have no problem parking his rig. He doesn’t have nearly the wheelbase issues that you have.
I guess everyone has a first time sometime. Was that his wife out there helping him? Sometimes having someone who doesn't know how to spot is worse than having no one at all.
Yes. That was his wife spotting for him. I’m guessing that was only part of the problem. My mom says it usually takes him about a half hour to park that thing. Apparently not his first time since she has watched him before.
His first mistake would appear to be not backing in from the other direction. Given a choice, always back in driver side when your rear view is obstructed.
His second mistake is having his wife spot him and likely not giving her adequate instruction. Mine is there as a backup to my rear camera (currently don't have installed) and just to keep me out of trouble in an unknown spot with overhead trees. etc.
Short box. If he doesn't have a slider hitch or is running something like an Anderson that puts the nose further back, he may be limited in angle.
Spotter rule #1 - always be able to see one of the truck's mirrors.
I back myself in at home, rain or shine, day or dark and while I have a wide enough approach from the driver side, the back pad is one lane wide - house on one side, fence on the other. I have to jog it behind the house a bit too.
Fifth wheel and bumper pull back much different. Fifth is slow and you have to plan ahead. Bumper pull is quick to change direction and more forgiving (for some).
I got my transmission cooler and light wiring installed. Getting much better at getting the trailer to go where I want. It's a nice feeling when it ends up where you plan.