Yep...
& I think I'd rather not futz with it. My 99 Ram, poor thing.
Anyone suggest a competent shop that might be willing & won't turn it into a hassle?
Much appreciated & Thanks.
Printable View
Yep...
& I think I'd rather not futz with it. My 99 Ram, poor thing.
Anyone suggest a competent shop that might be willing & won't turn it into a hassle?
Much appreciated & Thanks.
The silence is deafening in this thread.
Not close to you, but I would highly suggest:
Jeremy's Garage
1600 Kansas Ave, Longmont, CO 80501
Phone: (720) 340-6695
Get a bottle of K Seal. Worked awesome for me.
Since this weekend shoot was cancelled, see if you can put together a weekend group to knock out that heater core. It'll be like an old school AK build party, but with less precision tools.
Yep, disappointed about the cancelled shoot. However there is a bright side to having a day made available & no, its not doing heater core chores for stangers... YAY its TREBUCHETS!!!!
https://www.auroragov.org/things_to_...unkin_colorado
They have been setting up cannons at the place up 85 about 35/71 of the way up to Greeley.
Tap tap tap.... this thing on?
Uff da
Heater is over rated...
I'm not bothered by the cold so much but it would be helpful to defrost the windows so I'm not unduly smooshing stuff with my bitty plow. : P
City & County of Denver along with DPS likes to put all the snow to just one side of the street & cut off vehicle access for my elderly neighbors. Ive lost track of how many years & the number of times Ive asked nicely so from here on, I'm going to put it back in 'their' driveway every single bloody time. :D
I know shops local to me that would treat you right but why do you think it needs replaced? Leaking, smell coolant, plugged? IIRC, those are kind of a b*tch to change and probably why no one has volunteered for it lol.
I know the one on my '01 Ram 2500 CTD starting plugging up and I flushed the hell out of it and it worked well till I sold it. Flushing those are a breeze, disconnect two hoses and flush with water through both ends.
I know it & WHY I was willing to pay someone ELSE. lol
I don't have a definative answer. Leaks? Yes. Smell coolant? Yep & the subsequent chemical permafilm on the interior windows is a PITA. I wouldnt know & frankly was less interested in the experience as I am more interested in bypassing the learning curve from doing it myself. Figured in this instance & because of the worst case option I'd start with a shop who knows what they could be getting into based on competency rather than having it blow up into a hassle and suffer an idiot parade.
Differential sensor, new alternator or brake cable, I got it.
This? Yeah I can do it of course, just hoping I wouldnt have to.
Depending on your location. Good general shop. I take vehicles there if it's something I don't do. Fair prices, but not cheap.
Leo’s Automotive | 1563 South Pearl Street | Denver, Colorado 80210 | (303) 722-5530
DR Auto on S Federal is my other go to. Mostly because I used to take work trucks often. The owner is solid.
Grant,Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant H.
How would you compare Jeremy's to Steve's in Longmont?
Grant?
My family have been using Aurora Automotive since I got here in 2005. I will not go to another mechanic.
https://www.yelp.com/biz/aurora-automotive-aurora-2
Tell Gonzo the family with the little Red '91 Mazda sent you.
I did my heater core on a 2001 1500 Ram. It is a pain in the ass but very doable. Plenty of videos and information online. You have to removed the dash, at least the passenger side to give you enough room to get in and replace it. I had to cut mine out and also cut the lines to put it in and reattach them. It will not be cheap to pay someone to do it because of the labor but very doable job for most.
Guess what? Done!
Yes it was a pain, although it could have been much worse as far as projects go. I'll call it uneventful. Managed to get that bad boy installed through the firewall without having to cut the aluminum lines too. Nice, riiiight?!
Shift indicator was also finally sorted so a bitty bonus.
The dashboard lid is a bit less large too. Darn. Anticipated however as it was already cracked in several places. Still three of the five (2 steel & 1 cosmetic) mounts are there so it's good enough as functional over pretty was my aim. Local Chrysler proper... if they think I'll pay $744+ for a replacement dash & @ ~ 1/3 the cost, Yay genuine OEM Ebay!
Truck is running great & I will check plow function tomorrow to be sure nothing in the nest of wire harnesses was pinched. I think I'm set.
Yay!
Apologies for the resurrection of the thread but there is a little issue, my air vents are stuck on the defrost vents & air conditioning my windshield now. Anyone have a guess as to if it can be solved without having to pull the dash again? I never did replace the cover & it wont survive another attempt.
Fwiw I replaced the tubing that was in poor shape that goes from the engine compartment, to the port in the firewall that I believe controls the majobber that directs the air flow. Didn't remedy.
Control switch on the console maybe or ?
Appreciate any suggestions.
Probably a vacuum leak somewhere.
What kind of vehicle? Ford?
Dodge 1500.
What Ray said.
We had similar issue with Mrs bo 1500 and Durango. Both would still change venting but had to lift off or apply throttle to vary/change vacuum "manually" and get it to actuate.
Hmmm, I'm having the same problem with the actuator in my Trooper. Interested in the fix.
We got rid of both vehicles before it stopped actuating completely, no idea what the fix was.
It happened just a few days after the heater core was installed, ive just been living with it. Would like to correct it now but I really dont want to pull the entire dash/console off the truck frame again. Was hoping there was a fix someone had already tried & was easier.
99 1500 Laramie regular cab 5.9l
Many cars use vacuum to move the blend doors to determine where the air flows.
The vacuum comes from the engine, but only at certain throttle position/RPM (when the throttle is open, little or no vacuum is present).
So cars will have a small plastic vacuum "ball" hidden somewhere inside, with a checkvalve. That ball will provide enough vacuum to keep the blend doors working.
But it's common for the ball to crack, or rub against something and develop a hole. Or check-valve can also fail. In all these cases, the doors will only move while throttle is closed, usually with higher rpm as well (so a quick blip of the throttle to get rpm up, and release throttle quick, resulting in higher RPM with throttle closed)
For ChickNorris' issue, since it happened immediately after replacing a heater core, I'd bet a vac line or electrical connector got disconnected or knocked loose.
So, removal, futzing & a new dash cover then?
[AR15] [AR15] [AR15] [AR15]Quote:
Originally Posted by DenverGP
Probably.Quote:
Originally Posted by ChickNorris
Could also be the control rod knocked out of place or broken blend door.Quote:
Originally Posted by DenverGP
Found a video series that breaks down the components and access fairly well:
http://youtu.be/S3U2X04aXdA
To be clear, my heat & ac work fine, however it only blows out of the uppermost vents along the perimeter of the dash at the base of the windshield no matter the vent groups selected on the dial.
Now that I know where to look, I'll start with the harness connection to the housing shown in the video & try the rpm method for giggles. Just maybe I'll get lucky. Thanks guys.
this video shows working with the vac lines that move the air doors.
Looks like that vehicle uses an electric motor for the blend door (hot vs cold), but vacuum for the various air doors.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHxiWpxu9e4
Maybe?
http://youtu.be/LHxiWpxu9e4
ETA: Just beat me to getting this one up with the same time stamp. Was trying to find a better one, but haven't yet.
Quite a few comments about vacuum lines with wear holes in the engine compartment and being able to splice together with hose to seal it.
Oh good because I thought that video wasn't quite covering my dilemma. Not surprisingly, my second attempt at remedy didn't solve for it. I'll watch this next one & give it a go. Appreciate the consideration from those who know more on this subject than I.
I already replaced a segment of that line in the engine compartment! I did not replace the check valves though & will revisit the entire length of line now. Thank you!
Fingers crossed it's that easy & inexpensive otherwise, he was quite clear the dash frame was wholly removed & it'll probably be something else in the cab or switch that came loose during the heater core installation.
Those dash covers & face frames are silly expensive (cases of match ammo is how I see it -lol) & if I have to pull the dash I'll need to replace both as they are already in pieces. Bummer.
Yeah, pretty messy stuff. I'm hoping it isn't something way up in the dash, but it's usually not a coincidence that it stopped working at the same time. [panic] My fingers are crossed that it's something accessible and easy.
First find the vac hose going to the climate control from the engine and pull a vacuum on it. See if doors move etc. if the vac is not held you got a leak somewhere in there. Did you remove any vac hoses? If so when you put them back you should trim back the stretched part so when you slide them on they hold. Sometimes the hoses seal and work until you remove them and then they leak due to stretch and hardened rubber.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah, it just a tedious process. I would suspect the vacuum reservoir first then something that got unhooked for the heater core. Pull vacuum on each portion of the system.
Finding vacuum leaks suck.............
Sorry, couldn’t resist.....[Tooth]
Another thing you could do is run a smoke machine. You can also roll your own smoke machine.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk