Garage insulation/sheetrocking - any last thoughts/tips?

Finally saved up and am planning to have my 2 car attached garage (approx 22' x 25') insulated and drywalled soon. Both the walls and ceiling, and I plan to have it lightly textured and then painted very light grey (white ceiling) as well. If I'm clearing everything out to do this, I don't want to do it again.


I had a subpanel put in, and extra outlets have been run along the walls at regular intervals. There are now two switched outlets on the ceiling that I plan to use for some costco linked LED shop lights. POE cam is up and running, a couple cat6 ethernet lines, as well as a coax+cat5e from the original build. Only thing I may be missing I can think of would be a ceiling fan box and maybe one more outlet in an upper corner somewhere for an electric heater, but a built-in heater is probably overkill for relatively mild CO winters. Not planning to do any floor coating, etc. at this point. There's a hose spigot I put in when we built the house as well, though it's in a dumb place. No floor drain. A sink would have been nice, but couldn't figure out how to make that work.


Had a couple questions / looking for feedback on a few things though for those that have done this.


1) Do I need a permit just for drywall and insulation for an attached garage? If so, is that a city or county thing? Is there any benefit to me other than "following the rules"?
2) There's not a ton of space in the "attic" - but I believe I may have to have an access hatch anyway? If so I was debating sticking a couple pieces of plywood up there to use for lightweight storage or storing things like spare long lumber, empty gun shipping boxes or PVC pipe, Christmas lights maybe, etc. Worth messing with? Pic or two attached. If so, is a drop-down ladder way overkill?
3) There are three roof vents near the top of the garage roof already. So I'm assuming I don't need to add any add'l venting...?
4) Do I need to tell the contractor to do anything special with the ceiling drywall to prevent it from sagging or having issues in the future? I believe they're competent as they've done work for us before, but just wanted to try to think of anything I could in advance, and I don't know if they just screw/nail to the trusses or...?
5) Do I care / need to tell them how to handle the garage door and opener framing, etc. (drywall "around it" or remove/reattach the brackets/wiring, etc) or should I just let them do their job?
6) Any reason to get specific with what type/level of insulation I want other than the basics?


Anyway, any thoughts/feedback appreciated before I kick off this work soon.

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I went with OSB instead of drywall. I work on stuff in my garage and the wood will take an accidental hit better than sheetrock. It also makes hanging things in the walls way easier. At the time I did mine the OSB was actually a little cheaper too. Plus, since I did the work myself I didn?t have to mess with any taping or sanding or whatever on the joints like you do with sheetrock. Paint it white or light gray and from ten feet away it?s hard to tell it isn?t sheetrock.

Sorry I?ve got no answers to your questions. Let us know how it turns out.

Put in the hatch so that there is future access in case anything up there needs to be serviced, technically the bottom cord of trusses aren’t designed to hang heavy stuff from nor to use as a storage platform but everyone does it anyway. Drywall is a fire barrier vs OSB which would be highly combustible, I don’t think OSB would pass building inspection inside of a garage, especially on an adjoining wall. Wire for some speakers for a stereo.

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Originally Posted by ray1970

I went with OSB instead of drywall. I work on stuff in my garage and the wood will take an accidental hit better than sheetrock. It also makes hanging things in the walls way easier. At the time I did mine the OSB was actually a little cheaper too. Plus, since I did the work myself I didn?t have to mess with any taping or sanding or whatever on the joints like you do with sheetrock. Paint it white or light gray and from ten feet away it?s hard to tell it isn?t sheetrock.

Sorry I?ve got no answers to your questions. Let us know how it turns out.

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I did osb in mine also. Exactly the same reasons. Love it would never go back to drywall in a garage

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Originally Posted by def90

Drywall is a fire barrier vs OSB which would be highly combustible, I don?t think OSB would pass building inspection inside of a garage, especially on an adjoining wall.

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Good thoughts. The wall between my garage and living space was already sheetrock so when I did the OSB I only did the rest of it and left the existing sheetrock on the one wall.

My house is old. I bet there is a shit ton of stuff that wouldn?t pass inspection these days or doesn?t meet code.

Do you use air in your garage? Air lines are always a nice addition to a garage. Rated PVC above ceiling in case they need service.

Any attic space makes the hatch a necessity. For storing the things you listed if nothing else. Drop down ladder just makes it easier to get there so why not?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Do not texture a garage. It will collect dust, paint overspray, smoke etc and you will NEVER get it clean.

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Originally Posted by 3beansalad

Do you use air in your garage? Air lines are always a nice addition to a garage. Rated PVC above ceiling in case they need service.

Any attic space makes the hatch a necessity. For storing the things you listed if nothing else. Drop down ladder just makes it easier to get there so why not?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

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PVC pipe is unsafe for compressed air. When it fails you get many small and jagged pieces flying about at high velocity, I've seen where those penetrated through insulation and aluminum siding.

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Originally Posted by XJ

PVC pipe is unsafe for compressed air. When it fails you get many small and jagged pieces flying about at high velocity, I've seen where those penetrated through insulation and aluminum siding.

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A danger for sure. I've never had problems but understand your point. The available nylon air kits would be a better choice I suppose if you don't want to hard pipe.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

I might be a NEWBIE, but I am definately NOT a TRADING POST TROLL.

We extended an attached 24 x 24 by 20 feet into a 44 x 24 about 10 years ago.

I used 1/2 inch ply instead of OSB for the "working walls" of the garage, kept drywall on the common walls and behind the shelving on one wall. Same reasons as some have already mentioned.

Insulating the ceiling will really help. I have a Modine Hot Dawg overhead heater, and very tight sealing garage doors, and I lose very little heat overnight.

Install as many outlets as you can. I did outlets every 48 inches, 48 inches above the floor. Also, use as many circuits as possible to avoid overloading any one circuit. Use GFI breakers on all garage circuits. Plan for a 220 compressor, even if you dont have the need now.

A suggestion on the compressor circuit. I wired it through a relay from the overhead light circuit. When I turn off the lights, it is impossible for the compressor to cycle in the middle of the night. Wife is happy. Also used 3/4 in copper. Agreed that PVC is dangerous.

install as many lights as you can . In my 44 x24, I have 54 4 foot T8 bulbs. LEDs are more popular now, but some people come by, and they have commented that my garage can be seen from space. You can never have too much light. Install some lights in the attic so that you can see what is up there when you go exploring.

Windows are great for ventilation and natural light. But for security sake, they can be a problem with too many people seeing what is in your garage, and they can be an easy entry point for bad guys.

If you want, go to WWW.GarageJournal.com and visit some other garagemahal ideas.

I really love spending other peoples money.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...4Cex-WYaQXKcde
Derald.

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https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...4Cex-WYaQXKcde

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Originally Posted by BPTactical

Do not texture a garage. It will collect dust, paint overspray, smoke etc and you will NEVER get it clean.

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I was wondering about that too. I got the sense reading online that a "smooth" finish might actually cost more than a textured finish though...? On one hand it's a garage, so I'm not too worried about it being perfect, but I don't want to end up being annoyed later seeing seams and having it generally look bad. I've got a ton of junk (still working on decluttering) and cleaning all this out at once is realistically the one and only time I'll do it. Is it realistic to ask them to not do texturing and have it come out with a good decent smooth finish? There's actually currently a cost built in for the texturing, so if it made it cheaper, even better... will ask them what they think next week too.

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Originally Posted by DeraldR

If you want, go to WWW.GarageJournal.com and visit some other garagemahal ideas.

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Oh man I love/hate that site. I still have dreams of building out my HF cabinets like in the "steeveo" thread.

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Originally Posted by 3beansalad

Do you use air in your garage? Air lines are always a nice addition to a garage. Rated PVC above ceiling in case they need service.

Any attic space makes the hatch a necessity. For storing the things you listed if nothing else. Drop down ladder just makes it easier to get there so why not?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

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Debated air, but I'll probably skip it. I had a bunch of bigger tools that I've sold off in the last year or two - just wasn't using them as much and I converted to smaller things on fold-up carts, etc. Just not enough room for everything I thought I'd use.

I'll have to price out ladders. Seemed at first like it might be overkill, but maybe it's not after all. I wonder though if there's enough reinforcement up there to support one - I assume they're fairly heavy with a decently rated ladder.

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Originally Posted by Brian

I was wondering about that too. I got the sense reading online that a "smooth" finish might actually cost more than a textured finish though...? On one hand it's a garage, so I'm not too worried about it being perfect, but I don't want to end up being annoyed later seeing seams and having it generally look bad. I've got a ton of junk (still working on decluttering) and cleaning all this out at once is realistically the one and only time I'll do it. Is it realistic to ask them to not do texturing and have it come out with a good decent smooth finish? There's actually currently a cost built in for the texturing, so if it made it cheaper, even better... will ask them what they think next week too.

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Be careful how you ask for a smooth finish. A level five finish is going to be different than just painting with a roller. Painting with a roller will be smooth enough for what you want. Machine texture has hard edges to catch all the dirt like Bert mentioned. There is more drywall mud prepwork involved for a smooth finish than with texture, but I wouldn't think it'd be that much more, especially considering it's for a garage.

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Originally Posted by DeraldR

I might be a NEWBIE, but I am definately NOT a TRADING POST TROLL.

We extended an attached 24 x 24 by 20 feet into a 44 x 24 about 10 years ago.

I used 1/2 inch ply instead of OSB for the "working walls" of the garage, kept drywall on the common walls and behind the shelving on one wall. Same reasons as some have already mentioned.

Insulating the ceiling will really help. I have a Modine Hot Dawg overhead heater, and very tight sealing garage doors, and I lose very little heat overnight.

Install as many outlets as you can. I did outlets every 48 inches, 48 inches above the floor. Also, use as many circuits as possible to avoid overloading any one circuit. Use GFI breakers on all garage circuits. Plan for a 220 compressor, even if you dont have the need now.

A suggestion on the compressor circuit. I wired it through a relay from the overhead light circuit. When I turn off the lights, it is impossible for the compressor to cycle in the middle of the night. Wife is happy. Also used 3/4 in copper. Agreed that PVC is dangerous.

install as many lights as you can . In my 44 x24, I have 54 4 foot T8 bulbs. LEDs are more popular now, but some people come by, and they have commented that my garage can be seen from space. You can never have too much light. Install some lights in the attic so that you can see what is up there when you go exploring.

Windows are great for ventilation and natural light. But for security sake, they can be a problem with too many people seeing what is in your garage, and they can be an easy entry point for bad guys.

If you want, go to WWW.GarageJournal.com and visit some other garagemahal ideas.

I really love spending other peoples money.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...4Cex-WYaQXKcde
Derald.

Attachment 82544

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...4Cex-WYaQXKcde

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Gawddamn.....I'd like to just SEE such a tinkerpalace! I'll even bring beer and BBQ sammiches.....

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Originally Posted by Brian

Debated air, but I'll probably skip it. I had a bunch of bigger tools that I've sold off in the last year or two - just wasn't using them as much and I converted to smaller things on fold-up carts, etc. Just not enough room for everything I thought I'd use.

I'll have to price out ladders. Seemed at first like it might be overkill, but maybe it's not after all. I wonder though if there's enough reinforcement up there to support one - I assume they're fairly heavy with a decently rated ladder.

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#1: you can't have too many outlets

#2 wire one in a box for at least a 30A 220v.

#3 forget a heater. You're wasting valuable ceiling space with that box up in the corner. Go with a mini-split. It's compact, sits up close to ceiling and easier all around to have both heat & ac.
With it attached to the house, you'll run it less. BUT have the convenience of staying warn in winter and cooler in summer.
I've never met anyone with an ac/heat unit that said, they regretted installing .

#4 DO NOT texture the sheet rock. Unless you're doing some Better H&G mancave. It's a garage, use it as such.

#5 write out your plans, lay out where you want outlets, an air line and anything else you're thinking of. Lay out where the outlets and lights will be in the garage, using painters tape. Stare at those a few days, then revisit it over a week or so. Then commit to doing it.

#6 semi gloss white paint will really enhance any lights you do. Definitely the 4' daylight led's


#7 If you're using an air compressor. Consider pouring a 4x4 pad behind out back, or side of garage . Put compressor in, enclose the pad, leaving enough room to reach the outlet etc. Don't forget to insulate it. Run line in to garage. You'll save more floor space with it outside, as well as much quieter.

Not sure if true but I have heard that if you texture and paint in a garage then it can be considered livable space and therefore your taxes could go up.

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Originally Posted by newracer

Not sure if true but I have heard that if you texture and paint in a garage then it can be considered livable space and therefore your taxes could go up.

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Needs plumbing to be adjusted as a living space.


IMO it's a garage, pay a decent contractor, if you're not up to the task. Make sure it's up to code and call it good.

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Originally Posted by newracer

Not sure if true but I have heard that if you texture and paint in a garage then it can be considered livable space and therefore your taxes could go up.

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Larimer county tried to do that to me. They had never even seen it. I had to go to a hearing to get the appraised value back to normal.

Put in a bunch of wiring for 'can' lights. They have some new LED pancake remodel pucks that are really nice and well priced. You can never have too much light. Add some wall outlets while your at it

Another thought is ventilation, you may want to add soffit/gable vents to keep air moving up there once its sealed off. As mentioned before, a retractable access ladder is a good idea and if you plan on storing anything up there (and you will), beef-up the trusses and add a floor but don't put the bowling ball collection up there.

Per fire code there is a requirement for drywall separating living spaces and garage just an fyi

I used texture to hide my "Less than perfect" taping job on the ceiling.

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Originally Posted by DeraldR

I used texture to hide my "Less than perfect" taping job on the ceiling.

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Looking at your shop, i doubt anyone is looking at the ceiling. Let alone critiquing it.

Really appreciate everybody's feedback so far.

At this point, sounds like I'm going to ask them to skip texturing and do a rough paint-ready finish. Probably do a satin paint sheen to find a happy medium that's not quite semi gloss so it doesn't show every flaw but isn't at all flat. Bright white ceiling and very light grey (threw a sample of some SW "agreeable gray" on the wall and it looks almost white, so I think that might work).

Will look into ladder options. From what I'm seeing online, there are basic 22.5" options that are supposed to fit between the trusses and then a 25" that might mean they have to be cut and modified. A lot of people seem to say the 22.5" is too thin to be able to get normal cartons/boxes, etc. up there, but I'm assuming given the trusses are already questionable when it comes to a load perspective, adding more weight by cutting in and reinforcing a wider opening is probably a bad plan, or at least something that goes from simple to expensive / complicated pretty quick? Dumb question, but that pull-down string doesn't just hang there full time, right? I'm assuming there's a latch option or something?

Anybody mess with google sketchup for drawing up plans? I might give it a shot but might not have time to learn something new given I'm about to start on this fairly soon.

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Originally Posted by Brian

Really appreciate everybody's feedback so far.

At this point, sounds like I'm going to ask them to skip texturing and do a rough paint-ready finish. Probably do a satin paint sheen to find a happy medium that's not quite semi gloss so it doesn't show every flaw but isn't at all flat. Bright white ceiling and very light grey (threw a sample of some SW "agreeable gray" on the wall and it looks almost white, so I think that might work).

Will look into ladder options. From what I'm seeing online, there are basic 22.5" options that are supposed to fit between the trusses and then a 25" that might mean they have to be cut and modified. A lot of people seem to say the 22.5" is too thin to be able to get normal cartons/boxes, etc. up there, but I'm assuming given the trusses are already questionable when it comes to a load perspective, adding more weight by cutting in and reinforcing a wider opening is probably a bad plan, or at least something that goes from simple to expensive / complicated pretty quick? Dumb question, but that pull-down string doesn't just hang there full time, right? I'm assuming there's a latch option or something?

Anybody mess with google sketchup for drawing up plans? I might give it a shot but might not have time to learn something new given I'm about to start on this fairly soon.

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I have the 22 inch ladder, and yes it is narrow, but how often are you planning of getting up there ??? The rope does hang down, but it is tied off so that it is above my head, and there is no problem. The metal treads can get slick, so I did add the non-slip boat tape to the treads.

Google sketchup ?? just get a white board and some dry erase markers.