I have an 80 percent lower that I did about five years ago sitting on a shelf doing nothing, looking to have a cerekote job done to it. Anyone do stuff like that?
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I have an 80 percent lower that I did about five years ago sitting on a shelf doing nothing, looking to have a cerekote job done to it. Anyone do stuff like that?
You can get the airsol can based cerakote and do it you self just letting it air dry
I cerakote my own stuff using a Preval sprayer that you can buy at Home Depot and then baked it in my oven. It?s pretty easy to do yourself.
https://youtu.be/f9i7g-awRIc
https://youtu.be/Vlqir8Bpd2A
Just throwing out the suggestion, no experience with that type of spraying.
Would love to hear how it worksfor you if you go that route. [Coffee]
Just an FYI, I did not have as good of luck with the Preval sprayer. Pattern wasn't as smooth as I'd like. For my disposable sprayers, I use the harbor freight airbrushes. (The cheap one).
If you want to DIY. You're welcome to use the blast cabinet and such.
I got a guy up north here that is setup to do cerekote. He does it along with powder coating in his fab shop. Pm me if you need details
I hear DuraCoat promoted on Student of the Gun all the time. Anyone ever use that?
If you want a Professional job instead of a kitchen table Bubba look, get ahold of Danger Lee in Elizabeth.
https://www.ar-15.co/forums/221-Dang...Industries-LLC
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...887d8335d3.jpg
Alec Henkelman - Veteran owned
https://thegunfactory.net
Ive seen nothing but great cerakote work come out of his shop.
I've used Duracoat for probably 10 years now. I won't claim that it's as durable as Cerakote but I haven't really had issues with it if I let if sit and fully cure. It's real easy to use and no oven needed. I've generally degreased and sprayed without using a bead blaster. I've only had one issue ever which was my fault because I had used paint stripper to get the old paint off and didn't get it cleaned well enough before spraying.
Yes I did, the stainless slide was OK, but the stainless color coated aluminum frame sucked. Besides, I rescued this from a convicted gun abuser with gun A-D-D....... This was a few years before Colt came out with the all black Defender.... Now I want the all stainless Defender they have out...... That is if I can get one before all the Biden gun bans take effect.
I don’t know if he does any firearms or not. I know he is cerekoting turbos and manifolds so you’d have to ask if he is doing firearms. Also does some pretty amazing metal fab. He has some cool things on his Instagram Attachment 83678
I've used it extensively as well. It's reasonably durable, even held up on an AR-15 9mm bolt well enough (500 rounds ish before I sold it maybe?) it will eventually wear on a bearing surface like that, but it takes quite a bit. I think by then, only the corners of the bearing surfaces had worn. Been awhile, though. On stuff like a barrel or receiver I don't think it's going to have noticeable differences to ceracoat if properly applied, because most likely, neither is going to come off in your lifetime.
I've been wanting to try cerekote with an airbrush. I was hoping to not have to sandbags it though.
Does anyone have experience cerekoting after cleaning with lye and acetone, like when anodizing?
Sand blast, not sandbag...stupid autocorrect...
I might check into them on a couple of lowers. Do you know if they do engraving also? Or someone that does metal engraving?
I have a buddy that had to move his shop but should be setup in the new location by the end of next week if you're still in need I can hook you up with his info.
^100% Correct
To have optimal adhesion you will want to sand blast your parts first.
Good point, was hoping to get away with scotch bright pads, but maybe not worth chancing all that effort and then half assing the prep work.