Motorcycle Batteries

I need a new battery for my motorcycle, and am being recommended this company, whom I have never heard of, because they are supposed to be super light, while powerful.

https://shoraipower.com/en/

When I think super light and powerful, I think things like Super Capacitor (but I don't think this is that.)

It's a $150 battery, which is expensive, but I spent $130 on the last battery (traditional, lead acid).

Apparently Parts stores/walmart, have $60 batteries that are compatible with my bike.

Seems like a lot of black magic, when a $60 battery will start my bike, time and again (if I treat it right) versus a $150 battery?

Do ya'll have any experience with this particular manufacturer, or other battery wisdom you can give me?

Thanks in advance.

I inquired about the super capacitor for with our resident solar guru and he told me that at best you can get maybe two attempts to start, so after that you're screwed. Not exactly what you asked, but thought I'd throw it out there.

My son had issues with starting when he tried a lithium battery in his '08 Triumph Street Triple. I've used Yuasa batteries for years in all kinds of bikes and never had issues. I also used a tender for those times the weather kept the bikes in the garage for months.

Is that Shorai Power a Lithium Battery? Yes, Lithium is all the rage in batteries, and that would explain the price, too.

Irving, I only need it to start once! :)

Super Capacitor sounds like it would work in Car/Motorcycle batteries, to me.

I think my last battery was Yuasa.

Best of the lead acids? I was disappointed it died. I bought it in 2018.

I think with solar backup super caps would work. There are many videos floating around YouTube with people running power tools, starting bikes, and small cars with super cap packages. I think the risk is that if for some reason it doesn't start the first time, the caps drain themselves enough to not have a second chance.

Anyway, I'll have to bow out because I don't know anything about this. I run my little dirt bike (with no kick starter) with an 18Ah battery I got for like $30; and I can't even keep that bike running.

I’ve bought my moto batteries on Amazon and locally at Batteries+. I’ve found that if you use a trickle charger on them all year, it really extends the life of them.

They would/should recharge with the alternator, just like normal.

So put (2) Super Capacitors in there, or, three!

I do think it might be a million dollar idea!

I do plan to buy the battery tender option with whichever battery I buy, thanks.

YUASA .

For those saying their battery didn't last more than a year or two. How many kept it on a battery tender, when not in use? Especially when not in use, for more than 2-4 weeks

I?ve also pretty much always used Yuasa in my metric bikes and always been happy.

I?ve switched back to OEM batteries in my Harleys because they seem to last the longest.

Battery tenders are a must, especially during winter months.

Some bikes inherently just eat batteries. I?ve had bikes that would run for ten years on a battery without a problem. I also have one bike that seems to need a new one every two or three years.

^^^This.

I also use the Harley OEM batteries for my portable sprayer and trolling motor on my inflatable.

I currently have the OEM battery in my 09 FJR. I think Yamaha uses Yuasa? I know, hard to believe. It's all about the JR tender that is plugged in any time I'm not riding. I've never had any other battery live this long. I am a big believer in battery tenders.

I've not read any where that guys are getting long life out of the lighter, smaller, lithium's.

Deka AGM and use a battery tender, you will be set for many years to come.

(Deka is the Harley OEM and they are hard to start, vibrates run hot)

I would not run a Lithium battery with a combustion engine.

Unless you are racing, I don't quite get the "light weight" advantage for MC batteries. Even a regular lead-acid MC battery weighs, what, 5 lbs? Maybe 6?

A lithium might be half that so a 3 pound battery for an extra $100+ doesn't make much sense to me.

If you need to be 3lbs lighter take a healthy dump before you ride and maybe skip that second muffin at breakfast.

Light weight is an advantage for something you have to carry or move around a lot but a MC battery, once it's in the bike you shouldn't have to touch it.

I keep both my bikes on tenders and the batteries have lasted for years.

One warning about tenders, though: No battery lasts forever and in my experience, the one disadvantage of using a tender is that it will "mask" the symptoms of a failing battery.

IOW, the battery works great - right up until the day it doesn't. And when it gets to that point, there's nothing you can do except replace it.

In my experience, the lithium batteries are not worth the extra cash. Yeah, they are super light but it's not like you gaining some performance advantage.

The big issue is they don't like cold temps. It doesn't even have to be that cold to have starting issues. Typical high altitude mountain summer morning will do it.

Shorai is good.

Anti-gravity LI batteries are good. I currently have one of their RS series in my GSXR.

Super caps work on older/smaller bikes, but with my GSXR being FI, running the ECM, etc, even 500F super caps (6 in series, largest I can fit in the factory battery location) would only give me 2 attempts to crank, and with it being a cold blooded, it's not uncommon to have to start it 2-3x which makes the super caps iffy.

All LI types (lifepo4, LiPo, etc) are good to go until 32-35F, which is noticeably colder than I will ever be riding.

The biggest argument that I have for LI batteries is the longevity. I got tired of having to replace LA/AGM/Traditional batteries every 1-2 years, even with a tender, and have had my Anti-gravity for 3 years at this point with 0 signs of issues.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Grant H.

but with my GSXR being FI, running the ECM, etc, even 500F super caps (6 in series, largest I can fit in the factory battery location) would only give me 2 attempts to crank, and with it being a cold blooded, it's not uncommon to have to start it 2-3x

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Well, sounds like somebody could use a better tune. If I had a fuel injected bike that didn?t fire right up on the first time it would ruffle my OCD.

There's a lot of good options, depending on the bike.90+% of new bikes come with Yuasa as OEM. I put a LOT of batteries in bikes for customers, and my preference is lithium for modern bikes (anything fuel injected), as they provide more cranking amperage for a given form factor than anything else. Next would be gel electrolyte, followed by AGM, then as a last resort, flooded lead acid. I run lithium in my own bike, and ride year round, down to about 15 degrees, as long as the streets aren't slick. The bike lives in the garage overnight, so never much colder than 20 or so, but stays outside while I'm at work. The current battery is about 5 years old.

I have two of these maintainers and they have worked great for over three years now on multiple bikes. Harbor Freight sells a maintainer as well.

Foval Automatic Trickle Battery Charger 12V 1000mA Smart Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Z2NFWW...ing=UTF8&psc=1

I’ve been running Shorai batteries for several years in my bikes. Carbed Ktm and now a carb 2021 Beta 300. They are super light and have massive cranking power. Have had zero issues.

Lead-Acid batteries: OK, reliable, long life IF and ONLY IF kept on battery tender when not riding. Otherwise expect to replace every 12-18 months if bike stored in cold weather during winter.
Li-Ion batteries: Neighbor has one, weighs ~2-lbs. vs. the Pb-Acid battery (several pounds). Requires special Li-ION battery charger when in storage. He's had his for several years. Tons of power.

When my battery goes, I'll probably get a Shorai Li-ION replacement.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ray1970

Well, sounds like somebody could use a better tune. If I had a fuel injected bike that didn?t fire right up on the first time it would ruffle my OCD.

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Fair. It has needed to go back on the dyno again for a while.

Each Battery Type (Lead Acid vs Li-Ion/Poly) has decent advantages for specific use cases.

Lead Acid Batteries
These are best for general use cases for daily drivers in varied weather conditions. Their significant performance advantage is that they provide consistent cold cranking amperage in cold weather conditions. These batteries are also priced decently and there are a boat load of existing Lead Acid compatible chargers and battery tenders on the market that support them. The primary negatives are their liquid Acid construction which can lead to leaks or spills if the battery is exposed to extreme tipping angles. They are also heavier than a Li-Ion/Poly battery because the lead acid Anode/Cathode is LEAD and lead is heavy.

Li-Ion/Poly Batteries
These batteries are best used for high performance recreational or racing use cases which can expose the battery to extreme tipping angles and every pound of extra weight matters. The primary advantage is that the Li-Ion/Poly battery construction is based on solid or paste style components which are not affected by the physical position of the battery. Basically put, when you wreck or lay down a bike with a Li-Ion/Poly battery you don't have to worry about Acid leaking out of the battery. In high performance racing scenarios using lighter weight components does matter. Using a light weight Li-Ion/Poly battery is a great way to cut extra weight. The primary disadvantage to using a Li-Ion/Poly battery is that its cold cranking amperage is significantly reduced in cold weather conditions. If you daily drive a vehicle in the winter months then using this type of battery isn't the best because there is the potential of it not having enough cold cranking amperage to start the vehicle on the really cold days. Another significant disadvantage is that the potential combustion of the battery if its over charged or pierced is high. These batteries will catch on fire if they are over charged excessively or get pierced during a wreck. The over charging situation isn't an issue when using Li-Ion/Poly style trickle chargers or battery tenders. But if you try to use a Lead Acid style charger on a Li-Ion/Poly battery it can create an over charging scenario that could cause the battery to combust. Basically put, these batteries are not idiot proof when it comes to charging them. The last negative is their cost which is usually 2 - 3 times of a Lead Acid battery.

The basic Motorcycle Use cases are this.....

Daily Drivers, Cruisers, Street Bikes, Varied Temp Riding, etc = Lead Acid

Recreational Offroad, Racing, Track/Trail riding, Regular tip overs, etc = Li-Ion/Poly

Regardless of battery type you prefer to use, if your bike is sitting for weeks or longer between rides, its best use a trickle charger/battery tender to keep the battery topped off while its sitting. This proactive trickle charger/battery tender advice applies to pretty much any vehicle that is sitting unused for long periods of time. That is if you don't wont to ruin batteries and replace them frequently because they become too discharged while sitting unused.

The LiPO4 batteries I sell have integrated battery management systems, which reduce or eliminate any over charging issues, as well as eliminating the need for a special "balance" charger. For most applications, they have the same form factor as the original battery as far as physical dimensions and terminal locations, making installation much easier than some of the lightweight racing batteries. Unless there is a parasitic draw (like a clock or alarm system), maintenance chargers are only needed if storing for more than 60-90 days.

Very good information, thank you everyone!

Grant, I'd love to explore a Super Capacitor solution long term, but short term, I guess I just need a battery.

Cha-Lee, thank you very informative post, and I think I fall firmly in the lead-acid camp. I only drop my bike when it's an oopsie. ;)

SouthPaw, thanks for the trickle charger link.

Thanks all.

I have had absolute shit luck with every battery type that I have ever installed in a vehicle (except the odyssey in an ATV)
Up to almost $300 batteries in the cars are toast within 2 years. I'll just buy cheapest whatever from now on.

Batteries will do that to you. They are evil.

Yuasa AGM.

Have to keep any of these on a tender when not in use for extended periods.

I like this one for AGM batteries.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1