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Got into the house in 2013, water heater has never been serviced. I got some rust colored water out this morning, so I think it's time to pay attention. I'm being told that service/draining at this point could lead to trouble.
Should I just get into a new unit?
House is a 1000sf cookie cutter from the '50s (and I still got the popcorn ceiling too). Should I consider tankless?
All tin is within current code.
If the tank is more than 10 years old, just replace it.
Tankless requires supply and exhaust to be within specific ranges. Start with those two things in order to consider tankless. Generally they're only cost effective during full rehab or new construction.
I'd go double tankless. Not having two tanks is better than not having one tank. Two is none, one is none. You get the idea.
Who's on first?Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
https://i.imgur.com/sPfkFXv.jpg
These are the recommendation we received recently
https://www.navieninc.com/residentia...-water-heaters
and install a re-circulation line to the room(s) farthest away from the heater so the pipe stays warm.
So you're saying that you are removing the tank and going tankless and then circulating the line constantly?Quote:
Originally Posted by asystejs
Who's on first indeed...
The pump has a thermostat so it only runs when the line cools.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wulf202
In 1000 SqFt, you likely don't need a recirc line unless you demand instant hot water.
The most common problem with draining an old tank is sediment contaminating the drain valve so it doesn't seal when closed. Some people will have the same problem with the TPR valve- that's the one up high- Temperature Pressure Relief.
You can extend the life of your tank type heater by checking the anode rod and replacing as necessary. A whole house water filter will screen out a lot of contaminants that can shorten the life of the unit.
A newer heater will likely be more efficient than the old one and you may consider one with a stainless tank.
Modern NG tankless units need a dedicated circuit to the breaker box. The little on demand ignition spark.
We ended up having to replace our breaker box to comply with code.
Our 1960 tri level had few good options for cheap hot water.
I'm not a plumber and I'm not up on the latest, greatest, but I do most of my own plumbing. If I was seeing rusty water, I would drain and flush/refill and drain again. Try to remove the sediments that are in the tank. If it fails, leaks, well it was going to anyway. Then you can replace it knowing you have to.Quote:
Originally Posted by battlemidget
I prefer to repair what I can, but move on if I can't. And I'll hire smarter repairmen when I'm out of my skill set.
FWIW, the water heater in our current house, a little family cabin built in the 1960's still has the original Montgomery Wards propane water heater that's dated March 1965. Not super efficient like the modern offerings but it keeps on ticking. Drained and refilled once in a while. Fifty six years young. Made in America.
At the Palisade farm house I built in 92, installed a Sam's Club Rheem water tank that lasted 25 years. I replaced it with a 50 gallon indirect tank that works off the main boiler heating system. Very efficient as it is one less fired appliance and provides a virtually endless supply of hot water. It makes the boiler fire more often which will reduce it's life some but it's still going reliably at 29+ years. Also made in America.
You don't need a HW recirc line in a 1000 sq ft house. In a school, hotel, or hospital? Yes. Not in a single family home. You'll be money ahead just replacing the hot water tank with a similar tank. Tankless units are expensive and typically require dedicated electrical. The monthly savings because they're more efficient are marginal over the life of the unit.
It is in a new build.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wulf202
Tankless does not mean you get instant hot water when the shower is 40 feet away from the tankless unit.