Need some work on my 2003 Suburban

Anyone have a mechanic they trust that could take a second look at my suburban and give me a quote. It needs some work I?ll attach screen shots of the work Service street recommended. I really don?t have any reason to believe this work doesn?t need to be done. I can see the leaks etc. I just know sometimes the quick lube places will try and nickel and dime you. Just want to make this thing last awhile with the current car market.
It?s a 2003 2500 suburban 6.0 with 175,000 miles

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05 burb owner, 133k miles. General comments.

Mobil 1 high mileage keeps leaking to a minimum. If you have been running regular oil the gaskets are ?dried? out. Running high mileage stuff will tighten things up. My car at 90k started leaking like a sive. High mileage made it acceptable to the point where I am leaving those gaskets alone.
I did the whole front end a while ago. The pitman arm and the joints will get you much tighter. Pain in the arse work and changing the arm/joint on the steering box is a special hell. The upper A arms are cheap enough to replace as a unit. The lower A arm joint is cheaper to do the joint. Replacing upper A arms may require cutting the alignment bolts - tedious but doable - maybe why they are recommending just the joints.

Haven?t touched the cooling. But hoses pumps and such are next.

PM me if you want to talk more.

Based upon the quoted cost for an air filter I would think you can do a lot better.

If you are handy at all with tools, and have the time, you can knock most of that work out very easily. Of course space can also be an issue.

Forgot to address the cost. Parts do seem high but it?s 2022.

Transfer case fluid needs to be the blue Smurf per Chevy but takes only one quart. Call a dealer and see what they charge for it. Will give u a good factor.

Sounds like it overheated and cooked the gaskets. I'd do a compression test on all 8 cylinders. If it fails the compression test, it needs another engine.

Or it's just a GM and leaks oil.
Those procedures aren't that difficult on that engine. Hardest part is if the exhaust has to come down to fix the pan gasket, can't recall off the top of my head. Cooler lines likely just need seals if they're leaking at all.
You just happened to find a shop that wants to take you for all of your money

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Originally Posted by BushMasterBoy

Sounds like it overheated and cooked the gaskets. I'd do a compression test on all 8 cylinders. If it fails the compression test, it needs another engine.

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Ummmm, what? A few leaks constitutes a compression test? Lol.

What they quoted you is common on the 4.8/5.3/6.0 LS series engines. Literally all those parts, especially at that mileage will start to seep. If you aren?t seeing drops in your driveway, I wouldn?t worry about it. In order to get a true leak diag, you?ll need to degrease the entire engine, steam clean it and recheck.

The steering components on the other hand are likely due given the mileage. Don?t piece it together, just get it all done at once. Upper/lower BJ?s, inner/outer tie rods, idler/pitman arm, possibly shocks and it will drive like a new truck. You can also have them tighten the steering gear a few notches to really make the difference.

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Originally Posted by SouthPaw

Ummmm, what? A few leaks constitutes a compression test? Lol.

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Well, theoretically, worn cylinders and/or rings can cause excessive crankcase pressure which could force oil out so it isn?t a totally irrational recommendation.

I doubt that?s an issue in the OPs vehicle though.

Yeah, most LS engines that I have encountered over 10yrs old or so develop some sort of oil leak. It is what it is (how many people did that irritate), but they're typically easy fixes. It's honestly just a pan and/or valve cover leak that this "mechanic" just wanted to throw the book at since it's been blowing around for a while.

[Sarc]Cooler lines wet? They must be leaking, replace 'em[/sarc]

And that's not me being anti GM. It's what I've seen. Every manufacturer/engine has their own problems.

I don't know anything about that engine but I like Southpaw's suggestion to give the engine etc. a thorough cleaning so you can see what's really going on. A clear look at any leaks and a fresh diagnosis might make it more affordable for an older truck. We keep older vehicles to save and make money, but first they have to be reliable. Same with the mechanics you rely on.

Truth is it runs and drives fine. So I?m not really in a rush at all. I can tackle some of this stuff but got a two year old at home so it?s kinda difficult to dedicate the time to it. I doubt the cylinder is fried. This car was my mother in laws who got it new. She always took it to GM for the work and I got a file folder about 5in thick with maintenance receipts. It?s been taken care of just getting up there with mile but plenty of life left. I had new bilstein shocks put on in august so I?m good paying a fair price just would like fair and I?ll probably do it little by little do I?m not drilling a wad of cash in one go.


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If it were me, ( and I realize everyone is not me) If it were safe and reliable I would add oil and keep driving it. There's a point when vehicles get old they can tend to be a money pit. If you put a bunch of money into it now it may need more later. Put a piece of plywood under it to catch the drips and keep going. The repairs do seem high to me also. I'm wondering how it would compare to replacing the engine? that should cover everything listed. I'm not saying you should go that route, but it might be interest to see how it would compares.

I was just saying a compression test because a head gasket might have started leaking too. Cheap and easy to check. I still believe the engine over heated causing the soft rubber gaskets to fail. If the head gasket fails completely, it will be a sudden catastrophic failure. The truck will be dead on the side of the road. I have 5 GM trucks. They all run. None leak.

If anything, get the leaking water pump replaced. A rebuilt LQ4 would be a little over $3K

https://www.monstertransmission.com/...B#.Yj95AOfMK5c

i have a 2003 Suburan just passed 197,000 haven't done much to it in the last few years. An electric gremlin showed up recently.

I have gone to Daivs Repair, on Emporia, in Greenwood village for several years. They tell me it leaks and some things should be done but when you're ready.

Parts...RockAuto, will be less than half even with premium replacement parts.

It's all pretty easy with hand tools, easier with power tools. The front suspension, a little more complex, but certainly doable. Make sure you have an alignment shop appointment for the next day to get it aligned.

I've been totally through several (including a 1999 and a 2003) GMs and a Dodge. Torsion bars suck, which I assume yours has. Make sure you know what you are doing with them before you jump in.

YouTube is your friend.

Prices are a little high, but stuff ain't cheap these days. If there are things you need to get done, The Garage on Union is a good place to check with.

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Originally Posted by MarkCO

Parts...RockAuto, will be less than half even with premium replacement parts.

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RockAuto stopped shipping to Colorado a few years ago. I don't know if it's changed but last summer I tried to get a gasket from them and they wouldn't do it.

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Originally Posted by eddiememphis

RockAuto stopped shipping to Colorado a few years ago. I don't know if it's changed but last summer I tried to get a gasket from them and they wouldn't do it.

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They ship to almost all CO addresses now. I could not get parts for a few years, so had my RA orders sent to a friends address out East of Denver. But the last two, I could get shipped to my home address, taxes added of course.

I like how they threw in a "FREE" tire rotation so they can pretend like they are doing you a favor while they pile drive you in the A$$...... Some of those labor charges are INSANE. For example it takes less than 10 minutes to remove and replace BOTH valve covers on my LS2 using hand tools all the while going at a leisurely pace.

I also think its sketchy that they can claim to know exactly what is leaking and from where without first de-greasing and power washing the engine then observing where the leaks are coming from. Oh, by the way, you can de-grease and power wash the engine yourself at your local self serve car wash for less than $10 all in.

I hate to say it but roll up your sleeves and get to work doing it yourself. You will save a BOAT LOAD of money and learn some good life skills along the way. You can find do it yourself videos for most everything on YouTube these days. The only thing you will need a shop for is doing the front end alignment after swapping the parts yourself. NOTHING they have listed for repair or replacement is rocket science.

Also do your own homework on how much parts cost so you can know if the shop is gouging you or not. For example, it took me less than 1 minute to find an LS engine Valve Cover Gasket Kit for less than $30.

If you can't invest the time to look that stuff up yourself then don't complain when you get taken advantage of by shops who WILL stick it to uninformed customers.

The Kelly Blue Book Retail Value of that beast is only about $6,000. At that low of a resale value there is no way I would invest $1,000 in repairs much less $5,000. Oh yeah, and fixing all of that stuff doesn't increase the retail value either. If the motor does let go or the transmission takes a dump it would cost more to replace or fix those major components than the vehicle is worth.

I would continue driving it as is, feeding it whatever quantity of gas and oil it desires until it eventually dies then simply walk away. Oh the joys of depreciating assets......

Family member took their Suburban to Parker Automotive 11533 N State Highway, 83 Parker, CO and was happy with them. was referred to them by a neighbor.

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Originally Posted by CHA-LEE

The Kelly Blue Book Retail Value of that beast is only about $6,000. At that low of a resale value there is no way I would invest $1,000 in repairs much less $5,000. Oh yeah, and fixing all of that stuff doesn't increase the retail value either. If the motor does let go or the transmission takes a dump it would cost more to replace or fix those major components than the vehicle is worth.

I would continue driving it as is, feeding it whatever quantity of gas and oil it desires until it eventually dies then simply walk away. Oh the joys of depreciating assets......

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Don?t disagree with the value. However I?m not looking to buy in this market just to be upside down in a year or two if the car market evens out. I don?t mind putting some money into it. I?m not into for much anyway since it was my in-laws. I?ll probably look at tackling some of it myself and chipping away at it slowly.


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Unless someone has a tundra they want to sell me at a good price lol


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Toyota for the WIN!!!.... I currently have a 4Runner I bought new in 2012 with 205,000 miles on it and its been super reliable. I also don't let parts wear out to significant degradation before swapping them. I do all my own maintenance unless specialty tools or equipment is needed like front end alignments, replacing tires or windshields. I keep the engine bay clean and it has zero oil leaks. At its current pace of wear I don't see any reason why it can't go 300K - 400K. At that point the resale value will be low enough that when it does bite the dust it won't really matter.

I?m kinda just waiting for the market to level out wouldn?t mind a new tundra but don?t want the first model year and want to see what happens with the hybrid they are going to out in them. Trying to talk my wife into a 4 runner or a rav4


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The one that jumped out at me was the labor on the oil pan gasket. $671? What, do they have to remove the front axle or something? That seems crazy.

Just for a data point, I sold my '04 Suburban for $5500 in 2019 with 185k and a new (warrantied) transmission.

As others have said, unless these so-called "leaks" are actually causing a problem I wouldn't worry about them. The 5.3 is a pretty solid engine. The 4L60 transmission is a different story (blew mine up TWICE.)

IMO fix the steering since those are wear & safety components. Flush the power steering and t-case if you feel like it but most of the other items are small issues.

Also just as a side note, if it wasn't for that crappy transmission and gearing too high for towing (3.73 on mine) I'd still have that 'Burb. Except for the two times the transmission crapped out, it was a great vehicle. I loved the size, I loved the layout, and it was super-comfortable to drive on long trips. It was even decent off-road.

I currently have a 2018 F-150 CCSB with the 3.5 EB and 10 speed transmission. It pulls much better than the 'Burb ever did, thanks to 470 lb/ft of torque and lots of gears to choose from.

But in a perfect world, I'd transplant the drivetrain of the Ford into the body of that Suburban. I just loved the layout with the 3rd row seat removed and the 2nd row folded flat, I had an 8' flat deck for carrying stuff. With my crew cab short bed truck my load deck is only 5.5' long, although I can extend that another 14" or so if I drop the tailgate. And the 'Burb was more than a foot SHORTER than the F-150, with a significantly smaller turning radius.

The GMT800 Suburban (2000 - 2006) IMO was the last truly "utilitarian" SUV made. After that they all turned into mini vans with power folding seats and 18 dozen cup holders and DVD screens. The GMT800 was comfortable enough to carry lots of people a long way but still could be used for very "utility" type stuff.

Martinjmpr, do you know that there are several transmission builders that put in a HD torque convertor in the GM trannys? Several little mods that can be done to make them almost bulletproof and the cost is a few hundred more than just replacing it with another failure prone trans.

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Originally Posted by MarkCO

Martinjmpr, do you know that there are several transmission builders that put in a HD torque convertor in the GM trannys? Several little mods that can be done to make them almost bulletproof and the cost is a few hundred more than just replacing it with another failure prone trans.

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I am aware of that, and I was in 2019 when the transmission went out on my Suburban. If I'd had the luxury of "bulletproofing" the trans I would have taken it.

But I didnt: When my transmission shit the bed, I was 300 miles from home (Vernal, UT) with my wife and a travel trailer that both needed to get home. So I bit the bullet and got the "factory certified" warranteed transmission and as soon as I got home I started shopping for a replacement truck. ;)

In that case, anyone know where I can get a decent 4r75e 4x4 for my 06 F150 on a budget?

If it were not for the steering box pitman arm I would tell you I would do the front end for you in exchange for a gun. [emoji23]

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Originally Posted by CHA-LEE

Toyota for the WIN!!!..... At its current pace of wear I don't see any reason why it can't go 300K - 400K. At that point the resale value will be low enough that when it does bite the dust it won't really matter.

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Sadly with the toy cult out there it will still be worth real money.