One of the guys I subscribe to on YouTube. He does a lot of ballistic tests on defensive ammo that I really enjoy, and this seemed like a good test of a G19. Enjoy!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrbtgQhg-VQ&feature=sub
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One of the guys I subscribe to on YouTube. He does a lot of ballistic tests on defensive ammo that I really enjoy, and this seemed like a good test of a G19. Enjoy!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrbtgQhg-VQ&feature=sub
Thanks, but I didn't really need any more justification to get a G19... :)
Lube it up with a non-synthetic grease and try that. No workie...
The lube used is probably more important than the gun manufacture in this test.
Ice, Fire, Water, Dirt, the glock will alwase rock. Nice vid
Lube? Grease? What's this stuff you speak of?[Dunno]Quote:
Originally Posted by SA Friday
I don't think I've been shooting enough to be impressed by these torture tests. Aren't all guns supposed to shoot until something breaks? Like this particular video I see it and don't see any reason why any of my guns wouldn't fire under the same circumstances.
Like I said though, I probably haven't been shooting enough.
Good video but he forgot one of the "rules"---- DO NOT PUT YOUR FINGER ON THE TRIGGER UNTIL YOU ARE GOING TO SHOOT
Translated: Keep your booger picker off of the bang lever.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mista Bukit
I kind of felt like the cloth of his glove was sticking into the trigger guard more than his finger was. But then again, his finger should have been held straight, above the guard and against the frame.
In my personal experience, I find that when it's cold and people are wearing thick gloves, they tend jam their gloved finger in the trigger guard and leave it there. I got into a fight with my brother once because he kept doing crap like that.
Yeah I don’t get what the big deal is when it come to shooting in the cold. I’ve shot a lot of different weapons in extreme cold climates and I didn’t notice any changes in performance. I do however see how the other parts of torture tests prove something. Am I missing something?
Cold weather can have some serious results with some pistols. Very tight fitting slide to frame guns with steel slides and receivers can be problematical in very cold weather. Get some water in the rails before it freezes or humitidy from one's body in the gun before it freezes can lock it up till you can thaw it out.
Most modern production firearms have enough slop in the moving parts to keep them reliable. The two biggest things you have to worry about in extreme cold weather is temp sensitive powders and the lube in the gun. Every lube starts to turn to a solid at some point when it gets cold. There are some non synthetic greases that will pretty much stop the slide in it's tracks at freezing. Even if the lube doesn't turn solid, it can thicken when cold enough to cause FTE's and possibly FTF's if there is lube in the firing pin/striker channel.
See a bit of this every Oct/Nov time at the pistol competitions around here. People forget to clean out the Slide Glide from their STI's, it get really cold for a match, and the gun just won't run. Clean out the Slide Glide and replace it with 10w-30 synthetic motor oil and they run again.
Like to see the glock put in a bucket of water then frozen.
THAT would be a torture test.
Most firearms freeze up from going from a warm area to cold.
How can I tell if what I'm using is synthetic or not? I think I just CLP and that 3 oil that comes in those walmart cleaning kits.
Mobil 1 a qt will last you some time.
I have a Powerstroke,use Rottella keep a little to fill a small bottle.
Works great.
What does "CLP" stand for? We need an acronym dictionary.
Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectant
Yes, this stuff. You'll see it referred to as CLP, or CLP BreakFree.
https://www.cmpdist.com/store/public...?type=P&id=370
hmmm thanks.
There is a torture test on there somewhere of a Glock 22 (I think it was 22) where he buried it overnight in the mud, in a bucket of saltwater over night, all kinds of stuff and it still fired everytime and didnt jam.
link?? We need some proof!Quote:
Originally Posted by trlcavscout
I know what trlcavscout is talking about, but don't know where to find them off the top of my head. Probably find them on Glock talk pretty easily.
Here it is: http://www.theprepared.com/index.php...ask=view&id=90
Here is a similar one with and XD: http://springfield-armory.primediaou.../SPstory11.php
And I know that someone shot a Smith & Wesson M&P till it failed without cleaning it. It went like 53,000 shots or something and it just had a crack on one of little ears that guides the slide. The gun still actually functioned, but the lawyers told them to stop firing the gun.
CLP is another way to spell S-H-I-T, an acronym for worthless.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SA Friday
I look forward to your next write up then, because I'm clueless when it comes to what cleaner/lube to buy. I get paid Friday so try to have it done around then. Thanks. [Beer]
Stewart, I don't understand the chemistry behind the various lubes available to do a good write up on this YET. I'm hoping in a couple of years to have been edjamukated enough in chemistry to do something like this.
What I do understand is how various lubes have acted/reacted in the various guns I've shot in various conditions. CLP just hasn't cut it for me. CLP started life as Break Free and being used to soak steel parts that had stuck together from corrosion. It penetrates steel very well. This equals being soaked up by steel like a sponge soaking up water, especially in warmer temps or in guns heated through lots of shooting. I had huge issues with this in the desert. If in doubt, I just use motor oil. The synthetics seem to not thicken when heated up from shooting and resist thickening in cold weather.
uh oh... sounds like I may need a refresher on "proper" gun cleaning... I just use soapy water, clean water, brush, pads, some Hoppes #9, and "Remoil" or some other lube laying around... I hear talk about copper remover, CLP, etc and etc. Lots to learn apparently.
I don't even so that much. I just spray parts with CLP, scrub with tooth brush, dab remoil on a piece of cotton to lube the rails and points where the barrel touches and call it good. Well, I wipe the CLP off the gun of course.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBear
Quote:
Originally Posted by MichiganMilitia
http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=462537
Unacceptable. You just make a list of what you like and why, and I'll go to the store like a good little sheep and try it. OR, I'll act like a Donkey and say, "That's too rich for my blood!" and not do anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by SA Friday
That's easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuart
Hoppes #9 or Shooter's Choice to clean.
Summer time; competition pistols get liberal Slide Glide with Castrol 10w-30 synthetic in the trigger mechanisms. Get's colder; straight 10w-30 synthetic on everything.
AR's: 10w-30 synthetic
Bolt Guns: 10w-30 synthetic
Revolvers: 10w-30 synthetic
Shotguns: Hmmm, let me think... 10w-30 synthetic
If in doubt: motor oil. It's cheap, you get a quart for the price of a couple of oz's of "gun oil", and it works better than a lot of the 'special' gun oils. I've tried motor oil in every gun I can think of, and even belt fed maching guns fricken love the stuff.
If you want to get super fancy, go to Michaels and get needle bottle for a couple of bucks, or order a few from Brownells.
The only other thing I've tried and liked is the FP-10 grease that comes in the white syringe. My Glocks love it all year round, and seems to work well even in the cold in loose fitting guns. If I'm in doubt it might work, I go to, guess what.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SA Friday
Ummm.... *thinking really, REALLY hard*... ummm.... 10w-30?!?! [UZI]
That's great! Thanks for the tip. I really need to learn how to take the trigger assembly out of my M&P and CZ 75. I've taken the CZ completely down to frame except for the trigger, I should work on that. Thanks again.
Same here...kind of. Hoppes #9 and Mobile 1 10/30