I don't necessarily need a competition drop in trigger or anything. Looking for people who have had one or both done and what you think would be a better choice....
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I don't necessarily need a competition drop in trigger or anything. Looking for people who have had one or both done and what you think would be a better choice....
I had bad results with the springfield trigger in 2 out of 3 rifles, had doubling and tripling and had the trigger drop on bolt release. He stood by his work and returned my money but not worth the safety issues for me, pulled them all out.
What type of rifles did you have work done for?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdscott82
AR's, bushmater factory, homebuilt with DPMS LPK and a Smith and Wesson AR-22. The bushy was the realy scary one, droped the bolt on a loaded chamber at highpower match and it fired.
It is not very safe to try and get a super light trigger with stock AR trigger components. You just can't achieve adequate sear engagement and keep it light. I can clean them up to where they are smoother and less take up but if you want a really nice trigger get a dedicated aftermarket setup.
It is not worth the risk.
Thats good to know..especially since i just ordered...and cancelled the JP springs...safety first..Quote:
Originally Posted by BPTactical
Let BPTactical do your trigger work if you're looking for a decent barely if not any creep trigger on your AR!! He did my trigger on my M&P15T and it's way nicer than factory[Beer]
The JP springs won't hurt anything, its modifying the engagement surfaces on the stock trigger components that will. I have the JP springs in the few rifles that I still have stock triggers in, and they drop the weight a bit and don't cause any problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by jdscott82
In fact, if you take the stock hammer and cut the "birds beak" off the back to lighten it up a bit, clean up the engagement surfaces without removing any metal to speak of (I usually just hit it with some polishing compound and a felt bob on a dremel, but some guys start with VERY fine sandpaper first) and switch to JP springs, it does make a big difference.
Obviously I would only do this to a gun that I didn't intend to defend myself with, but I've done it to half a dozen and never had a problem.
I have been thinking about it...Bill is just so much closer though...[Bang]Quote:
Originally Posted by opie011
I had the same issues. I would not use his triggers again.Quote:
Originally Posted by esaabye
I love Bill Springfield's triggers!
Never met the guy, but I have made a MINT FIXING his work
With about an inch difference between sear surface and disconnect, single stage triggers have a severe limit limit on how much they can be tuned without eventually failing. Adjustment and re hardenign of the disconnector can save them some times, but often its nto worht the risk, especially with so manty makes of parts out there.
Lighter springs can help, but can risk light or incomplete reset, and light strike malfunctions. You can decide for yourself what risks are acceptable for your rifles and their intended use.
There are some things that can help single stage triggers, like the "long range trigger adjuster", or however its marketed now, that simply pre loads the trigger (reducing up take) by runnign a smaller screw througha hollow grip screw intot he back of the trigger. It works, and doesnt reduce ignition reliability. however, the trigger may need to be adjusted to maintain safety engagement.
Personally, i prefer a 2 stage trigger, mostly Geissele, because it allows me to safely get the trigger pull i desire. Captured single stage units with fixed geometry can also give very good results. But i personally am very cautions about how much i'll cut a stock trigger.
I had bill do my first AR, he used JP springs and tuned it. Never had troubles with it and it was a light 2.5lbs pull