Suppressor carbon problem

Ran into a problem with my threaded .22 rimfire can. I have ran a lot of rounds through it with my Walther P22, yesterday I pulled it off to put onto my AR-15 with a .22LR conversion and I could get it to fully thread on. The P22 adapter has about 3/8 of an inch of threads and the AR has over half an inch of threads.

The threads in the can that are not protected by the P22 adapter filled up with carbon and junk. I was thinking about sending the barrel to ADCO to have them cut down the amount of threads off of the AR barrel to match the P22 adapter.

Also I have been thinking about getting a ultra sonic cleaner any way and this would push me over the end.

Or just don't worry about it and thread it on as far as it will go and call it good. I a bit nervous about getting a half 28 tap and cleaning the threads that way.

How would you fix it? Is their any one local that you would trust to cut on your barrel? Thanks for the input.

Why not get a tap and clean out the threads on the can?

Sonic cleaner works great too.

Be careful of a sonic cleaner and aluminum. It can cause pitting and damage the can. Most manufacturers will not warranty cans that were cleaned in a sonic cleaner.

Don't know what can you have, though.

Would some heat and a wire brush clean it out? I'm just throwing stuff out there.

I used a sonic cleaner with dish soap and hot water. I only cleaned if for 15 minutes. It got my guns squeaky clean. I don't know if it will hurt aluminum or not so you might want to try it out on a pop can or something first.

I'm going to try a .45 bore brush. The can is a Ti so it should be ok with the ultra sonic cleaner. However I am nervous about dropping that much money in to one after reading stories about it taking the finish off of different parts. Also I'm going to look around for a tap and if I use the tap I will just go slow and take my time. Either way thanks for the input!

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Originally Posted by DOC

I used a sonic cleaner with dish soap and hot water. I only cleaned if for 15 minutes. It got my guns squeaky clean. I don't know if it will hurt aluminum or not so you might want to try it out on a pop can or something first.

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Well, a test for a "good" sonic cleaner is how fast it will dissolve aluminum foil. Rob at Bowers told me why, and why that doesn't matter...so there's two sides to it. I just have heard that most manufacturers will not warranty it if it's cleaned in a sonic.

Let me do some googling...

I guess it's really the chemical's fault. Acidic and basic solutions can strip away the oxidation on aluminum (Al reacts with air and oxidizes almost instantaneously, which protects it) and will be magnified by the cavitation action of the cleaner. The oxidation will reappear, then be stripped, rinse repeat until you have some severely damaged aluminum or none at all.

I know your can is Ti, but just for those reading the thread, just use water or if you use something else make sure its aluminum safe and test carefully.

I've heard you can freeze the can, then tap it on the counter and the frozen lead comes out in chunks. Never personally tried it though.

Works well on jewelry like gold and diamonds. Cleans it up like you would not believe.
The sonic cleaner I got was from a dentist office. They use them to clean their tools before they steam clean them. It works. I don't know about Aluminum though that metal seems so weird sometimes. I want Reerden Metal ASAP.

DO NOT run a tap on the threads of the can. they are cut to closer tolerances (in most cases) than a standard tap cuts. ALL can threads are done on a lathe, unless home made without access to a lathe. I suggest using a light film of oil on the threads to minimize build up of carbon. I own multiple cans and do not have any issue with build up. Unless the can is serviceable you need compresses air to remove any moisture left over from soaking in a sonic cleaner. I have utilized AL in many different products that were run in sonic cleaners for long periods of time. Outside of discoloration on finish never had any issues with integrity. I do second the use of water with a small amount of tide or other liquid detergent as the cleaning agent.
Regarding sonic cleaners outside of price they are fairly equal in function, depending on size have 1-2 sonic pads attached to the bottom of the unit. Make sure there is a rack with some form of soft padded feet on the base off it, suspended rack or soft mat on bottom of cleaner. DO NOT put any item in the cleaner, the vibration from the unit combined with material on it will in time wear through the base of cleaner if not wear on material in it.

Have you tried dissolving a piece of aluminum foil yet? That sounds like it would be fun to watch.

Just got confirmation that a sonic cleaner will pit aluminum. That's how they test it.
Works great on steel, plastic and jewelry though.

What's wrong with just a wire brush?

Two peel washers seems like a better solution then shortening your barrel threads to me. This is how I space my Gemtech Outback II on my AR conversion.

Thanks for all of the input. I found a Harbor Freight 20% of coupon and bought a sonic cleaner. After a couple of cycles the carbon loosened up and I was able to get it all cleaned up with a 45 bore brush and thread the can fully onto the barrel. So far the cleaner seems to be pretty good.

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Originally Posted by mcantar18c

What's wrong with just a wire brush?

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Sonic cleaners are just so much fun!!

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Originally Posted by frozenmud

Thanks for all of the input. I found a Harbor Freight 20% of coupon and bought a sonic cleaner. After a couple of cycles the carbon loosened up and I was able to get it all cleaned up with a 45 bore brush and thread the can fully onto the barrel. So far the cleaner seems to be pretty good.

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Glad to hear it. Good luck with future cleanings![UZI]

Over time the exposed threads will be gas cut buy the muzzle blast , you would be better off in the long run getting a new adaptor that matches the thread length of the suppressor .

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Originally Posted by C Ward

Over time the exposed threads will be gas cut buy the muzzle blast , you would be better off in the long run getting a new adaptor that matches the thread length of the suppressor .

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Even with rimfire stuff? Either way I want to have a long term fix. The sonic cleaner if fun but I will feel better know that Im not going to run into the same problem at the range like i did the other day.

Is there any one local (northern colorado) that can throw a barrel in a lathe and cut down and crown a barrel?

Still gonna happen with rimfire its just going to take longer . Aluminum being softer will cut easier though .

Suppressors like all nfa stuff needs to be viewed as a lifetime purchase because of all the BS that goes along with getting it repaired .

Personally I wouldn't use an ultra sonic cleaner on aluminum because bad things can happen .