Aluma-hyde Ii ???

[mbl]

I am getting ready to start a new AR project. Before I start assembly, I am thinking of painting the upper and lower receivers (and other parts) with Aluma-Hyde II from Brownells. Seems like a pretty easy process, no baking, etc.

I was wondering if anyone had and first or second hand experience with this stuff.

TIA,
MBL

[Sled_Dog]

Seems like I've read good things on the Fal Files where I heard about it. I have 3 cans in my garage I'm about to use on a FAL build, but I'm only using it on the plastic hand guards, butt stock and pistol grip. I'll let you know how it goes.

There's also a video on Brownells, seemed like they did recommend heating it up?

[bryjcom]

I've used it on fiberglass stocks and it is very durable. Not sure how it would work on moving parts though. I have never tried it on metal either.

I have heard that gunkote is very good. I think you have to bake it, but turning the oven on and sticking your gun in is not that hard. I think you can get gunkote from Brownells.

[Batteriesnare]

I've not heard of Aluma-Hyde so I can't speak to it. (Sorry)

I have heard and seen great things from DuraCoat though, which seems to be along the same lines. Heard about it from this guy, Nutnfancy, on youtube who does a bunch of reviews, shoots, and other useful sheepdog styled videos. He has a whole collection of videos on his duracoated items, (Guns, knives, optics) as well as the process of painting them. You can find his page here:
http://www.youtube.com/user/nutnfancy?blend=1&ob=4

Good luck, be sure to post pics when you're done!

[Dan_k]

I am currently working with it now. I made a easy bake oven to heat and cure the parts. (100w light bulb and a box. ) it gets to 120 degrees in there. So far it looks great, smooth finish and great color.

[BPTactical]

It is ok for a DIY coating, as with any applied finish surface prep is key. Multiple light coats are required with a decent amount of flash time between coats. It does have a long cure time as it is epoxy based so a dust/bug free environment is a must and don't touch it at least overnight, it fingerprint/dings easily. It tends to go on thick and it will run easily if applied too thick or not enough flash time is allowed.
Same protocols for GunKote, it finishes out thinner so it will show every flaw like file marks, pits etc. But the thinner finish is also a benefit because edges and lettering come out better defined.
With it being oven cured it is much faster than AH II to put the item back in service.

Both are halfway decent, with IMO an edge to GunKote for the quicker return to service and thinner finished appearance.

[zteknik]

I've used it quite frequently.
Like Bert said it's all in the preparation.Being I use it on steel as opposed to aluminum.
I usually degrease prior to sandblasting-don't want to contaminate the media,blast,again degrease and clean.Then I parkerize my piece.When I normaly park something I seal it with an oil based sealer and let it sit for about a week or so to soak in the oils,but when I know I'm going to paint over it I just shoot a light coat of wd40 on it to neutralize the solution,let it sit overnight then next day I soak it in hot soapy water to displace any oils.
Then one more time degrease.Now its ready to paint.Like Bert said light coats.

But what I do differently is instead of air drying I'll put into an oven at 300 and bake it for an hour or so between coats.Then on my final coat I'll bake at 300 for around 4 hrs turn the oven off after the 4hrs and let it sit in the oven overnight-and viola-done
Comes out tough as nails...

One recommendation I have is get many spray nozzles-they clog quick and cause runs and splatter.Make sure you shake the can thoroughly thru the whole process.