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  1. #1
    Missing Man on a Milk Carton islandermyk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim K View Post
    Barring the suppressor thing, I'd agree 100%.

    Get your zero by standing up after every shot. If you're all over the place, it's you. If you can shoot a good group standing between shots, it's more likely something mechanical.
    I did go through the check list before pulling the trigger after every shot. I was grouping pretty well... aside the point of impact wasn't matching my point of aim with the first shots I did. Once I rezeroed it.. it stayed.
    My problem is now that it's dead on with a solid zero... after weeks of just sitting idle... I know I'll end up having to need and rezero it again. Is this common? It should remain zero regardless of how long a rifle sits in the safe ( I could even be talking a year or so), right?
    Whore monger Mike!

    Slinging coconuts since ever since...

  2. #2
    The Red Belly TheBelly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim K View Post
    Barring the suppressor thing, I'd agree 100%.

    Get your zero by standing up after every shot. If you're all over the place, it's you. If you can shoot a good group standing between shots, it's more likely something mechanical.
    this.

    The 'Build and break' drill is phenomenal at exposing bad positioning. Combine it with a dot drill and you've got a good recipe for getting better very fastly. I also doesn't expend too much ammo. Maybe 20 rounds or so, especially if you dry fire your ass off after you build and before you squeeze the round off.

    stand up. Get one round. Build your shooting position. Dry fire a crap ton, making sure your reticle doesn't move at all when you dry fire. After 27 perfect dry fires, shoot the one round. Repeat this process 10-20 times.
    Just doing what I can to stay on this side of the dirt.

  3. #3
    High Power Shooter
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    What kind of optic are you running? Base and rings? Ever box test your scope, or run different distances by dialing and return to zero and shoot your zero and still be on?

  4. #4
    RIP - IN MEMORIAM - You will be missed
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    Search SH for the threads on fixing the wobble with the AAC mounts , the can not going back to the same spot every time will give zero shifts . Are you pulling the can in between sessions ? If so leave the can on and see what happens .

  5. #5
    Missing Man on a Milk Carton islandermyk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by asmo View Post
    I am going to put $2 on inconsistent mounting of the human to the rifle.
    I wish that were true... that would be a really easy and "cheap" fix, lol!

    Quote Originally Posted by smchop View Post
    What kind of optic are you running? Base and rings? Ever box test your scope, or run different distances by dialing and return to zero and shoot your zero and still be on?
    Schmidt and Bender PM2 5-25x56
    Sphur one piece mount.
    In the past I've shot out to 1K yards and then straight back down to a 100 yards to see if it shifted... and it was fine, but this was months ago.

    Quote Originally Posted by C Ward View Post
    Search SH for the threads on fixing the wobble with the AAC mounts , the can not going back to the same spot every time will give zero shifts . Are you pulling the can in between sessions ? If so leave the can on and see what happens .
    I pull the can off every time I store the rifle... if this is what you're asking.
    I gone and tried the AAC mount fix... it's on their solid and is hard as hell to remove cause of all the carbon build up on the muzzle device, but it almost feels like the more I put the can on it's starting to get looser. I just emailed AAC to see if they can just convert my can into a direct thread on... this QD ratchet sh*t is already annoying me.
    Whore monger Mike!

    Slinging coconuts since ever since...

  6. #6
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    Check your eye relief to the scope. Too far or too close can do that. Don't ask how I know. Could also be inconsistent cheek weld and body position.

  7. #7
    Missing Man on a Milk Carton islandermyk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pike10 View Post
    Check your eye relief to the scope. Too far or too close can do that. Don't ask how I know. Could also be inconsistent cheek weld and body position.
    I've been taught the ways of the parallax

    My POA and POI are pretty consistent with the 3 to 5 shot groups I take.
    This is probably the rare times someone can say the rifle was shooting crooked
    Whore monger Mike!

    Slinging coconuts since ever since...

  8. #8
    Gong Shooter MattR's Avatar
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    I'm gonna guess its the can and/or scope base loose. I had a similar issue once, but no can and the base was loose, I really couldn't feel it until I checked the screws.
    <a href=http://www.threadbombing.com/data/media/48/obama_money.gif target=_blank>http://www.threadbombing.com/data/me...bama_money.gif</a>

  9. #9
    Missing Man on a Milk Carton islandermyk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattR View Post
    I'm gonna guess its the can and/or scope base loose. I had a similar issue once, but no can and the base was loose, I really couldn't feel it until I checked the screws.
    I will tear my rifle apart tomorrow... and will update on this.

    You guys are awesome! Thanks for all the help... really appreciate it!
    Whore monger Mike!

    Slinging coconuts since ever since...

  10. #10
    Industry Partner BPTactical's Avatar
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    UnLoctited lefthanded nut behind the trigger.
    The most important thing to be learned from those who demand "Equality For All" is that all are not equal...

    Gun Control - seeking a Hardware solution for a Software problem...

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