"check engine" light

[OtterbatHellcat]

You could also just disconnect the battery and reset the PCM. If the code comes back again, it's a hard fault.

[zteknik]

Sounds like maybe when you hit the obstruction-flapper valve-it didn't seat back properly and set a code for an evap leak.
Might have to take the filler tube hose off the gas tank and check that it's moving freely and not stuck.

[OtterbatHellcat]

Good idea, Z .

[StagLefty]

You could also just disconnect the battery and reset the PCM. If the code comes back again, it's a hard fault.

PCM ?

[OtterbatHellcat]

Yes, your main electronic control module.

Remove the ground cable from the battery for several minutes...do not have your key (ignition) in the ON position for this.

Reconnect and start vehicle. If no engine light....drive truck around the block once or twice. If no light, I think you're good.

If the light comes back on, on restart or during your short test drive, the hard fault is set. I'd follow others advice at that point and get the actual code your truck has *somewhere* (auto store, etc) ...and Z has some solid advice about the filler neck if your light/code still exists.

[tmleadr03]

You could also just disconnect the battery and reset the PCM. If the code comes back again, it's a hard fault.

Modern cars don't do that. Has to be told to shut of or you have to disconnect the batter for a very long time.

[Gman]

The auto parts stores won't reset the codes for you. At least they wouldn't for me. They stated a concern that someone may want to just get their emissions tested after the reset and before the problem showed up again.

I purchased a bluetooth OBD II scanner on Amazon and used the Torque android app to get the codes on my Tahoe when I had an issue. Was also able to reset the code myself.

[BigNick73]

Yes, your main electronic control module.

Remove the ground cable from the battery for several minutes...do not have your key (ignition) in the ON position for this.

Reconnect and start vehicle. If no engine light....drive truck around the block once or twice. If no light, I think you're good.

If the light comes back on, on restart or during your short test drive, the hard fault is set. I'd follow others advice at that point and get the actual code your truck has *somewhere* (auto store, etc) ...and Z has some solid advice about the filler neck if your light/code still exists.

On the newer ones you need to turn the lights on and try to start it with the battery disconnected or wait a really long time to fully drain the system. Otherwise it'll hold the information. Also car may run rough for a minute or gas mileage drop for a short time when it restarts after this as the computer needs to relearn what setting it had before.

OBD scanners are so cheap now that it's almost pointless to not have one though, and then you can reset it yourself w/o all the hassle.

[OtterbatHellcat]

Alright, I'm not gonna argue with anyone about what I do for a living every day.

Stag, good luck, brother...I hope it ends up being a simple fix.

I appreciate everyone trying to help a brother out.

[Irving]

Did they just recently change the emission law that you CAN have a check engine light, or that you can not? I remember it used to be that as long as you passed, it didn't matter if a light was on or not.