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  1. #1
    OtterbatHellcat
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    Default SW 40 case bulge reloading question.

    I looked back, and found a similar 9mm thread about it, and saw some confusing answers and arguments at the end of it.

    I bought a case of Independence 40 SW 185 gr fmj, some time back.. I'm unsure if that brand is factory 1 time reloads or not, but the primers are not brass colored. I'm new to this stuff, and still trying to learn...anyways... I fire these rounds out of a G22, and to me it looks like the cases expanded so much, that it would stick in the die if you tried to resize it.

    Why are these cases expanding that much in a barrel that the round is supposed to be designed for?

    Thank you for your time.

  2. #2
    Machine Gunner Lurch's Avatar
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    Have you tried to resize one? You could also measure the diameter before and after shooting and compare that to another type. But they can only expand to the size of the chamber so I can see them being bigger then any other manufacturer.

  3. #3
    OtterbatHellcat
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    No, Sir...I've not. I'm afraid to try it.

    The expansion is from 23 to 29 thousandths. Thinnest to thickest.

  4. #4
    The "Godfather" of COAR Great-Kazoo's Avatar
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    glock bulge, chamber unsupported on the bottom / feed ramp area.
    There's numerous discussions over many a gun forum about it. One thing i would suggest, START at the low end when working up a load. These are miniature explosives not a hot rod, where more is better.
    Tumble clean, resize, reload. After resizing there are a few options you can take.



    http://images.search.yahoo.com/searc...k+bulged+brass

    Here's a snippet from another forum, not that i agree with their solutions.

    Solutions:
    • Buy a resizing die from EGW - that has been ground down so it sizes all the bulge out of the case.
    • Buy a Lee U (undersized die) that will probably get most of the bulge out.
    • Buy roll-sized brass and don't shoot it in your Glock again
    • Send your brass to a roll-sizingservice
    • Throw out all your guppy-bellied Glock brass
    • If you want to shoot your .40 Glock, but don't want to sort brass, consider buying a supported barrel.
    • Buy brand-spanky-new brass and never fire it in a Glock

    The two solutions that people seem to have the most success with are the EGW die ($20) and ceasing to use brass fired in Glocks. Repeatedly firing brass in a sloppy Glock chamber and fully sizing it back down should be avoided since you are effectively work-hardening the brass - making it brittle - which may result in a future case rupture.
    Last edited by Great-Kazoo; 10-22-2013 at 22:27.
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  5. #5
    Machine Gunner Lurch's Avatar
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    hmmmm you learn something new everyday. Glad I don't own a Glock. Jim any other guns this happens in?

  6. #6
    Grand Master Know It All sellersm's Avatar
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    It's only the old Glocks. Mostly internet myths, as Glock solved this issue quite some time ago.

    Someone makes a "bulge buster" die, can't remember who.

    Glocktalk reloading forum is the place to go to learn more than you ever wanted to know about this.


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  7. #7
    The "Godfather" of COAR Great-Kazoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lurch View Post
    hmmmm you learn something new everyday. Glad I don't own a Glock. Jim any other guns this happens in?

    Do keep in mind those images are what i would consider extreme.
    I don't have any issue reloading brass from my 9mm's. I have not come across that many who have issues ( though more pronounced) with their ForTay's either. I size and visual every few rounds then case gauge check. Before i picked up the CG i used the 17 / 19 & 26 bbls for fit. IF you check your brass and finished rounds it's (IMO) a minimal concern. Again me personal experience is with 9mm glocks.
    I'm going to buy a few aftermarket bbls, so i can run lead, since i was given a few buckets of wheel weights.

    In this forum there are many more who have light years experience over me that may chime in. IIRC MarkCO shot G40's for years, i'm sure his input will vary from mine.
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  8. #8
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    Lee, Redding and others......Midway supply. Get carbide if possible, use good case lube. I have good luck with Dillon. I tumble clean, lube, bulge bust, size than reclean. I actually bought a cheap Lee single stage press and have dedicated it to bulge duties. Think it was anout $29 from Midway.

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  9. #9
    The "Godfather" of COAR Great-Kazoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sellersm View Post
    It's only the old Glocks. Mostly internet myths, as Glock solved this issue quite some time ago.

    Someone makes a "bulge buster" die, can't remember who.

    Glocktalk reloading forum is the place to go to learn more than you ever wanted to know about this.


    Sent from my fat fingers using Tapatalk
    Yes the old case bulge is not as prevalent.
    However for a person new to reloading almost anything out of the norm is reason to question. One of my "advisors" told me "call anytime" Think he finally blocked my number.

    What i like about reloading in todays environment, (out side of component availability) is how many web sites / info we have access to. be it here, GT, castboolits etc.
    You are given a lot of Opinions as well as truly helpful info. Which for me and i'm sure many others, gives us the assistance we need, to reload safely and confidently.
    The Great Kazoo's Feedback

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  10. #10
    SSDG
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    Default

    Lee makes a cheap bulge buster die that is carbide so no lube required and the cases are pushed all the way through into sort of a hopper. This was mostly (but not exclusively) a glock thing...basically the mouth of the chamber, especially at the feed ramp were somewhat oversized to improve reliability...most semi-autos do this at least to some degree. If you take out your barrel and place a round in the chamber, you will notice a small gap around the rear of the cartridge (in some guns this gap is minimal, in other it's more significant). The gap will be biggest around the feed ramp...Semiautos that have minimal gap all the way around (especially at the feed ramp) are often said to have "fully" or "Well" supported chambers...in general, these are easier on brass and typically considered better suited to full power or +p loads (all else being equal). Keep in mind that a little bit of margin is required for reliable feeding.

    In your Glock, as pressure goes up, the brass will likely develop the appearance of a "smile" (as seen in the pic in the posted link) which is where there is sort of a crease in the brass from where it has expanded into the portion of the chamber where the oversized feed ramp transitions to the nominally sized chamber.

    In general, bulged brass can be resized (debulged if needed) and re-used. If there is a "smile" there is a good chance the load was somewhere between warm and possibly too hot. I would not reload brass with a noteable "smile", but would not hesitate to resize brass with a bulge.

    This was most notably an issue in the older glock 40s. As mentioned above, glock has reduced this effect by tweaking their chamber dimensions...Most aftermarket Glock barrels are not so loose in the chamber/feed ramp as the factory barrels, this can effect feeding reliability if the chamber is "too tight"...

    Remember...it's your melon behind the action when you crack off one of your loads...anything less than 100% confidence is too great a risk. Even though an occasional split case is not likely to be dangerous, it is likely tied to one or more of the following: "brittle" brass due excess work-hardening of the brass from significant resizing, large chambers, higher pressure loads.

    For me...Keep an eye on all parameters including brass, keep plinker loads at modest levels (the paper won't know the difference) then Load, shoot, reload & repeat :-)

    hope this helps
    Last edited by obawon; 10-23-2013 at 08:55.

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