
Originally Posted by
MileHighOutlaw
Grew up surfing California. Loved every minute of being int he water. Biggest waves were in the 10-12 foot area and you would swear that you were on top of the world. At 18 I moved to Hawaii and got to see the BIG wave riders do. Crazy insane sums it up. My first time out at the Pipeline I busted my board and was smashed up. Dropping in the wave and seeing the coral reef below was a real eye opener! I ended up as a open ocean lifeguard part time and got to train in the big surf. Let me tell you, plenty of times I felt like a itty bitty worm on a big F**king hook.