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  1. #11
    Meat Pie Magnet T-Giv's Avatar
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    Hmm now I'm having second thoughts. I'd much prefer to buy something with super low miles like this one but I guess it is a Cummins so 150k is still breaking in?

  2. #12
    Machine Gunner JMBD2112's Avatar
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    Save yourself the headache and buy a Duramax
    Truffle shuffles

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by T-Giv View Post
    Hmm now I'm having second thoughts. I'd much prefer to buy something with super low miles like this one but I guess it is a Cummins so 150k is still breaking in?
    on those newer pickups (post 02) the injectors can become a concern over 100k miles... The prior to 02 have mechanical injectors where the injection pump itself controls the injectors. Starting in 2003 the injectors are pressurized through a common rail and computer chips on the injectors themselves control the injection. Injectors with chips in them are a lot more expensive to replace than the older style mechanical ones. The issue with the 24valve motors in the 2nd gen trucks is the injection pump. It's computer controlled and the computer has a stupid high rate of failure, which will at some point leave you stranded. Another weak point of the 98.5-2002 trucks is the APPS or accelerator pedal position sensor. It's the computerized version of a throttle cable. It will also at some point leave you stranded.

    My advice would be to get a 98 12 valve if you're looking for an older cummins. The 98s have the opening rear doors and the 12 valve motor, which has mechanical injectors and a mechanical injection pump called a p7100 pump.

    No matter what second gen pickup you decide on if you go with the older body style first and foremost look on the side of the block on the passenger side towards the rear of the block and look for the casting number. If it says 53, walk away. Or prepare to buy a new block at some point.

    Or buy a duramax, and stock up on tie rod ends
    Last edited by Alf Tanner; 10-31-2013 at 07:03.

  4. #14
    Meat Pie Magnet T-Giv's Avatar
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    I would all for a 12v but haven't found any with low miles that were still 4wd. I guess I was just drawn to this one due to meeting my criteria for what I wanted. Guess I need to sleep on it and see where I'm at. I appreciate the recommendations.

  5. #15
    Machine Gunner Jeffrey Lebowski's Avatar
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    Wow, mine is 5 years newer, also a 5.9 with standard and I don't think I could sell mine for close to that.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alf Tanner View Post
    That's more than I paid for my 2001 dodge cummins (nearly identically equipped) with 40k miles in 2005. That price is more in line with a late 3rd gen cummins pickup. A vp44 powered dodge(2nd gen) is a 10k ish range priced truck.

    The front suspension issues the 2nd gen dodge truck has alone are a reason I'd avoid it. Here's a short list of problems you will have with that truck or upgrades that are almost mandatory:

    1. swapping the track bar setup to the 3rd gen version
    2. ball joints (all the weight of the truck sits on the lower ball joint in the front)
    3. the dash will crack to pieces and need replaced
    4. the vp44 injection pump is not fed sufficiently by the stock lift pump setup. The stock lift pump needs replaced with a FASS or equivalent. (doing the injection pump yourself is a minimum $1200 repair. Extending the life of the injection pump with an aftermarket lift pump is in the $500-800 range.
    5. the bottoms of the front doors will rust.
    6. worst stock headlights ever, almost intolerable to drive at night
    7. stock intake plenum gasket is subject to pop along with the head gasket from the extra heat having a boost leak causes
    8. stock intercooler boots are questionable at best
    9. speedo and tach like to go out when the speed sensor in the rear axle goes
    10. that nv5600 transmission is as much to rebuild as a lot of automatics are. bearings and synchros are not readily available.
    11. the nv5600 transmission has a lubrication problem with the 6th gear due to the design of the case
    12. it could have the dreaded 53 block, which will crack at some point.
    13. They ride like shit, get a tank has to be smoother.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMBD2112 View Post
    Save yourself the headache and buy a Duramax

    THIS^^^^^^^^^

    06 07 best years for the Duramax more power than Dodge, less trouble, and ride of a caddy.

  8. #18
    BIG PaPa ray1970's Avatar
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    Seems a bit high to me. Of course, most of the ones I've seen that were about the same year model had quite a bit more miles on them.

  9. #19
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    Look around at heavy trailers going down the road, almost all of them have a dodge in front of them. All of the diesel pickup trucks have problems, you just have to choose which ones you want to deal with. I have a friend with an 07 duramax that has had I think 4 complete front end replacements, 2 of which were under warranty. You don't hear as much about the problems with the duramax because there just aren't as many on the road as the dodge or ford.

    If you plan on towing heavy loads, go cummins. I pulled the same trailer back to back with my dodge and a friend's gm, unloaded the GM was way quicker and rode better but once that trailer was on it was no contest the other direction.

  10. #20
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    I had a 24v 5speed from 210k-320k

    Never had trackbar issue, but stock tires only, and had a luke's link in one end when I bought it.
    did tierod and draglink, 2 vp44's (did fass on the 2nd one)
    no dash cracks at all. bought a 2000, with 190k, no cracks, and seen another 01 with 1 very small crack
    had a touch of rust at inside bottom edge of door, barely starting, no bubbling
    headlights are horrible. Aftermarket housings, and wiring harness did them to decent
    intake gasket does like to go on the back edge.
    Never had issue with intercooler boots on the 98.5 or the 2000 donor, but they did sell quick
    overfill the 5600 by a qt and the bearing in question is sitting in oil. Rebuild is $, 2000-2500, and rebuild kits do fluctuate in availability. Even when parts have not been available, Ive been able to find rebuilt transmisssions in stock. Dont tow/drive under 1500/1600 in 6th however, can break 6th. Same with 4500's, helps get 5th to fall off (did that twice on my 98.5)
    Some 53's have cracked for sure. Many are doing fine. I know there are 53's that regularly tow with over 300, and at least one over 1mil, and some that are pulling trucks.

    My thought, at 21k for that, Id laugh in their face. I dont care if its got 6 miles, its not worth that. More like 15-18k. Spend that much get a 3rd gen 03-05 or 07. 05 was split from 5600 to g56. More complicated trucks, but closer to a real backseat. The front shocks are too soft on the 3rd gens, otherwise they seem to be pretty decent. AAM axles vs the older having d60/d80. Other than being a lot more electronic, and the 03+ are better in almost every regard.

    For comparison, I sold my 98.5 for 9500 a year ago, took 2 weeks to sell, fist person who looked at it, bought it. Condition was like a 100k truck, small rip in the seat, that was it.
    Last edited by brianakell; 10-31-2013 at 09:03.

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