Help me build a corner pantry

[Irving]

We relocated our dryer out of a corner, and now I would like to build a corner pantry. I would like to be able to store a lot of food in it, so I'll need the shelves to be strong. I've lined out an idea of what I want, but don't really know where to go from here. Could I get some help on here for ideas and techniques so that I can build this both strong and aesthetically pleasing? Let me post some pictures of the area I have to work in and the design I'm thinking about now. Please speak up if you have ideas, see flaws, etc etc.

Area where dryer was. You can see one wall outlet, the unused gas line that has been plugged, and the old vent hole.



Here is what I am thinking of doing. Tape on the walls is where I have wall studs. Not 100% sure how much I have in the corner. When I open the access panel for the fire place, I can see that there is a corner stud that is approx 1" to the right of the old gas pipe. The left wall is 44" and the right wall is 39". The square on the left is an idea I'm tossing around for a very tall and narrow broom/mop closet. Not sure how I'd executet that yet.


First shelf is 18" high, leaving me plenty of space for 5 gallon buckets. I'm guessing that each shelf will be 3/4" thick, and have measured the rest of the shelves to each have 14" of clearance. The tape is 1" but I measured for 3/4".



The shelf in the center of the picture is the 4th shelf from the bottom. The top two lines are the top space at 14" and 22". 22" looks too large for me.



It will basically be a larger version of this built-in entertainment center.


Will a cross brace like this be enough to support the extra large shelves I'm planning?


Here is what I need help with; that I know of. Feel free to point out things I am completely over looking.

- I'm thinking of a regular closet door. I want to add small shelves on the back side of the door to act as a spice rack. I don't think that would work well with a hollow core door. Perhaps use maybe two solid 3/4" pieces of wood that would open in the center?
- Should I go to the ceiling? Either way, what do I do with the extra space?
- What is the best way to cut 3/4" plywood to span the rather wide and unsupported front edge of each shelf? Should I consider a center support?
- Should I make a base/floor in which I could mount a center post for extra support? Even if I nix the center support, will having a 2x4 framed base help me support the not quite triangle shape I have?
- Is that small box on the side for brooms and mops feasible?

I can provide measurements of anything if that will help. Thanks again for any help anyone can provide.

[sniper7]

I think you have some good ideas except for what you are planning on storing in there...I'm thinking ammo and handguns and some more ammo and some loaded mags, some more ammo, and maybe a few long guns in the closet.

I would go for a center support or opt for better quality wood than plywood.

Going to the ceiling depends on how tall you are and if you want to reach way up. You can also cut it off at around 6-7' and put something on top be it more storage materials like ammo, or decoration

[Wulf202]

Frame it properly for a door. The door can handle 10lb or so of spices no problem.

Picture 4 add shelf support brackets where the thick blue tape shows a middle stud if you don't want a center support. Box each shelf with 2x4 framing and add a center support would be cheaper but slightly reduce space.

Above the height of the door you need to step the shelves back.

If you want to go all out get a commercial grade 8' interior door off craigslist and cut it to fit for floor to ceiling access.

[merl]

The adjustable wire shelving sold at HD/Lowes/etc works quite well. For corners I've abutted two pieces of shelving and zip tied them together.

[rondog]

Just be damn sure to fill in the old dryer vent hole, or the mice will swarm in. Nothing as aggravating as a pantry full of mouse turds and piss, and chewed up stuff.

2x4 shelf framing is overkill IMO, I use 2x2's to frame shelving in my garage and they see FAR more weight than a pantry ever will. Foodstuff and cans ain't that heavy.

I'd also recommend you consider making the shelf tops removable for easy cleaning, repainting, changing shelf paper, etc. Someday you may be glad you did, and you may regret nailing/screwing them down too.

And FWIW, you can get doors at Lowes or Home Depot that have a decorative glass panel in them that say "Pantry".

[Mtn.man]

Lazy susan type shelving then you can get to everything without unloading everything.

[Wulf202]

Just be damn sure to fill in the old dryer vent hole, or the mice will swarm in. Nothing as aggravating as a pantry full of mouse turds and piss, and chewed up stuff.

2x4 shelf framing is overkill IMO, I use 2x2's to frame shelving in my garage and they see FAR more weight than a pantry ever will. Foodstuff and cans ain't that heavy.

I'd also recommend you consider making the shelf tops removable for easy cleaning, repainting, changing shelf paper, etc. Someday you may be glad you did, and you may regret nailing/screwing them down too.

And FWIW, you can get doors at Lowes or Home Depot that have a decorative glass panel in them that say "Pantry".

Each shelf can easily have #300 of weight on it.

Shelves space 18" apart is a ladder to a 8 year old irving. Secure them and over engineer them.

Definitely mouse proof the vent. Spray foam and a metal backer like steel wool

[Irving]

I would go for a center support or opt for better quality wood than plywood.

Going to the ceiling depends on how tall you are and if you want to reach way up. You can also cut it off at around 6-7' and put something on top be it more storage materials like ammo, or decoration

Better wood is fine. I think what I'll do is frame for a 24" door. I have 36" across the face. That will give me 4-6" on either side of the door for additional shelf supports. Actually I could run each of those supports straight across the front of the door and use it as like finished edge lip like many shelves have.

Frame it properly for a door. The door can handle 10lb or so of spices no problem.

Picture 4 add shelf support brackets where the thick blue tape shows a middle stud if you don't want a center support. Box each shelf with 2x4 framing and add a center support would be cheaper but slightly reduce space.

Above the height of the door you need to step the shelves back.

Agreed on framing for a door. I don't understand quite what you mean about the support brackets. Do you mean the angled ones like you'd use on a wall shelf?
As for the top, I will put the top frame piece just above the door, but run all the walls up to the ceiling with a simple swing open door at the top. Then I'll have another 17" shelf to store sweaters and Christmas and Halloween junk (although I have plenty of space in my attic for all that. I should build shelves up there as well....)

Just be damn sure to fill in the old dryer vent hole, or the mice will swarm in. Nothing as aggravating as a pantry full of mouse turds and piss, and chewed up stuff.

2x4 shelf framing is overkill IMO, I use 2x2's to frame shelving in my garage and they see FAR more weight than a pantry ever will. Foodstuff and cans ain't that heavy.

I'd also recommend you consider making the shelf tops removable for easy cleaning, repainting, changing shelf paper, etc. Someday you may be glad you did, and you may regret nailing/screwing them down too.

Removable shelving isn't a bad idea, however I'm not sure how I'd actually get such large pieces of shelving out once the whole unit is together. I think I'll frame the top, bottom, and door with 2x4s and the walls will be some sort of 3/4" wood with 1x2 all the way around to support each shelf. Basically the stuff you see holding that top shelf of the entertainment center. With framing all the way around, I can easily run another 1x2 from back to front on either side of the door for more center support. That dryer vent goes to our garage. Only raccoons so far, but will definitely cover that hole up. It goes through brick on the other side.

Lazy susan type shelving then you can get to everything without unloading everything.

I thought of this, and my wife suggested this as well, but I think it would be too costly and not as strong for what I want. For two shelves that are eye level and higher, I'm thinking of popping in a simple corner shelf that is only half deep, to help utilize the space. That way we can put several rows of cans/jars for longer term storage.

Another idea my wife had was to start at the second shelf (top horizontal blue tape in picture #4) and have just a very large space at the bottom for laundry stuff. It's not a bad idea, but I think I can do something else for laundry stuff. Also, I don't really want dirty laundry sharing an enclosed area with food. Realistically I know the food will be fine, but for appearances it would look bad. If you have guests over and tell them, "Oh just grab some sugar out of the pantry," and they open the door and there is a laundry basket full of sweaty workout clothes and wet towels. That would probably put most people off.

Thanks everyone for the tips so far, they have been great!
Merl, go home, you're drunk.

[davsel]

For the door spice rack, you can get the wire ones that have screw hole attachment points at the top. This way, you can get away with a hollow core door - they have a solid piece across the top inch or so.
There are also the wire ones that have a hanger top that work well.

You can never have enough storage.

[rondog]

I agree about the laundry stuff, wrong place for it. Soaps & dryer sheets with foods? Bleh. But consider some space for storing appliances like electric skillets, popcorn poppers, bread machine, all the stuff we all have and rarely use.