Help me build a corner pantry

[Wulf202]

they have bull nose for your application. 45 degree corners are a bitch.

[Irving]

I'll look those up, thanks guys.

[Irving]

What if I just used some 1/2" wood instead of drywall? I don't need it for structural support or anything, but I bet I could just cut 45 angle into one of the pieces to butt them together flush. Then I wouldn't have to worry about the edge getting chipped if someone bumps up against it. I could get away with only using 1/4" if using wood, but I think it'd be easier to put the angle into 1/2". Not to mention it will give me just that much more to drill into should I decide to hang something on the wall. Thoughts on that?

I did find this: http://hamiltonnw.com/AP_TrimTexBullnoseCornerBeads.asp

[Irving]

So I mentioned earlier that I hung the door and it was a pain. Well, I didn't really know the proper way to hang a door, I just put it in there. It wasn't working the way I wanted, so I looked up some videos and found this one (sorry in advance), among others:


Anyway, I rehung the door tonight. I don't know if I had a crappy pre-hung door, wouldn't stay square no matter what, but it took me HOURS to get this thing hung. It's still not as good as it should be, but it is slightly better than before. I'll update as I complete everything.

[Irving]

Chalk board paint will go on this wall against the door.


Here is the bull nose. They really only had 90 degree, so I just smashed it down to screw it down.


Very top shelf. Probably just put a decorative curtain across the top.


Mostly painted on the inside.


Upclose of the bullnose.





I put a water proof sealant across the edges of all the shelves. That way if there are any spill, it will keep everything on the shelf, instead of running down the walls.


I messed around with the LED rope lights I have on hand while I wait for the 16' rope light I just ordered to arrive. I think it is going to turn out great and the lighting will be just enough. The lights will go from floor to the top, across the top, then back down to the floor on the other side.

I'm thinking of pulling a switch out of a refrigerator to work the same way so the lights come on when the door is opened. I could use a plunger style switch if I need to. Any suggestions for types of switches?

[Wulf202]

motion activation

http://www.walmart.com/ip/20439936?w...286630&veh=sem


RE: DOORS
I never shim an exterior door base, it leads to threshold warping and cracking. get the floor level with patch if you need to. I shim from the hinge side first. You'd have to be inside to run the screws. Really helps having 2 people so you can put equal shims from both sides that way the door isn't pulled at an angle. Once you've got the hinge side level and true you go on to the strike side. Level it, true it and check the gap at the top and strike side before placing your first screw. 3 screws each side and no need for top or bottom shims.

Though it's tempting, don't screw thru your shims, hit just below. Leaving the little black plastic holder in a new prehung door on the strike helps especially if you're solo

[Irving]

I ended up making my opening wider, as per the video I posted. I think it was too wide and was getting frustrated. Since I knew both my 2x4s were level and plumb, I just screwed the hinge side straight to the 2x4 and shimmed the strike side. That made my already too wide gap even wider since I put all the space on one side, but then I had even more shims left to deal with it. I have a pretty wide gap on the strike side, almost to the point that the stop didn't touch the door edge. I brought it in though and the stop holds the door and the strike plate properly holds the latch. I actually prefer it this loose as even if the door, or jamb swells, I should still have plenty of play to prevent binding.

Seems like it's taking a long time, but it is certainly the best, and most well thought out project I've ever done. Also, it looks great in the room in person. I almost can't even imagine the room any other way already.

[jslo]

how about a door switch?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KKNJPI

[Irving]

That might work actually, as I happen to have an extra spot in the door to mount that. One of the other suggested links is a magnetic switch. I may consider that option as well.

[jslo]

Typical location is in the jamb, hinge side, just behind stop. Access to get wire there, after the fact, will be your biggest issue.