SWFA SS Turret Markings

[BuffCyclist]

Jim made me ask my question here. Apparently, the post whore thread is only for whoring.

Without starting a new thread, can someone explain why my SWFA SS 10x Elevation Turret has two layers. The first is 0-5 and the second is 5-10. Is this supposed to be used in addition to the turret revolution lines (below turret, lines going left/right with numbers). As in, left side markings are multiplied by 5 and right side markings are multiplied by 10 to know where you're at?

Are odd number turret revolutions the 0-5 markings, and even number turret revolutions the 5-10 markings?

Example here:


From the time I've spent running the turrets through their range of motion (I'm on 15 right now, still have 35 to go apparently), I would say that this scope is at 15mil (5mil/rev) from the bottom and about to start the 4th revolution.

So that would be 5mil/rev * 3rev = 15mil or 10mil/rev * 2rev = ?

Is there any advantage to using the two rows of turrets or should I just keep track of 5mil/rev?

This is my first mil/mil scope and it seems a LOT easier (to me) than moa. Granted, I haven't taken it shooting yet. At the moment, I couldn't be happier with it. The turrets have very nice audible and tactile clicks. I'm starting to see the advantages of the mil-quad reticle the more I look at the reticle chart.

Anyways, back to the turrets... help?

[Tim K]

The second row of numbers is for those times you need to dial more than 5 mils. It's just to make your life easier.

Once you mount it and zero the rifle turn the knob all the way down and record how many turns it took to get there. That way, if you get lost you can return to zero. Or, note what line the turret is on, or get one of the add- on zero stops Skullybones will be making here shortly.

[Blowby]

Helps determine the total number of clicks without doing the math.


Some scopes can do all adjustments in one turn.

[BuffCyclist]

The second row of numbers is for those times you need to dial more than 5 mils. It's just to make your life easier.

Once you mount it and zero the rifle turn the knob all the way down and record how many turns it took to get there. That way, if you get lost you can return to zero. Or, note what line the turret is on, or get one of the add- on zero stops Skullybones will be making here shortly.

Thats what I was wondering, but 5 isn't a difficult number to add to. 1 full turn plus 3 mils is obviously 8 and if someone can't do that math, they have problems.

I guess I could understand it if the revolution tick marks could be multiplied by either 5 or 10 and get the same answer, but if that isn't the case then its just numbers to make it harder to quickly see the answer. Also I'm aware that you count the turns down to the bottom so you can always find zero again, but I don't see how 10s is better than 5s, without having a reference to know that you're two 10mil turns up instead of four 5mil turns up.

Helps determine the total number of clicks without doing the math.


Some scopes can do all adjustments in one turn.

Again, if the point is to prevent me from having to do math, there should be a way to know which revolution I'm on and whether I multiply the revolutions by 5 or 10.

Maybe I'm just missing the point, but counting by 5s is pretty dang easy. Am I making sense at all? LOL

Well, since I have no problem counting by 5s, I'll probably end up putting labels over that second row of numbers when I figure out various distances so I can quickly get to a distance without looking at dope charts.

[TheBelly]

get one of the add- on zero stops Skullybones will be making here shortly.

is it going to be a kit, or a one-size-fits-most?

[Tim K]

They will be scope specific, but we think that one size will fit all SWFA fixed power scopes, for example. The design is untested still, but if it works like we think it will, it will be easily adjustable. Skullybones may have prototypes ready some time next week.

[TheBelly]

to the OP's point:

Maybe most folks will never add more than 10 mils of DOPE on their scope. For my .260, the 10 mils gets me to about 1050m or so. Then if I add the drop that's available in my reticle, I can shoot into another county.

I like having the ability to use a 'broke scope' drill and use both hold overs AND hold unders.

The other thought here is that they use the same knobs on both the 5 mil and the 10 mil turrets. simplify the product line by having parts commonality.

[TheBelly]

They will be scope specific, but we think that one size will fit all SWFA fixed power scopes, for example. The design is untested still, but if it works like we think it will, it will be easily adjustable. Skullybones may have prototypes ready some time next week.

essentially, as long as it prevents going much past the 0 mark for your scope, then it's close enough. I know that's how the vortex folks do it, with a shim kit, IIRC.

[BuffCyclist]

to the OP's point:

Maybe most folks will never add more than 10 mils of DOPE on their scope. For my .260, the 10 mils gets me to about 1050m or so. Then if I add the drop that's available in my reticle, I can shoot into another county.

I like having the ability to use a 'broke scope' drill and use both hold overs AND hold unders.

The other thought here is that they use the same knobs on both the 5 mil and the 10 mil turrets. simplify the product line by having parts commonality.

Thanks Belly, that first part actually makes sense. I just looked it up and even with .22LR out to 300yds, you only need 12mil of adjustment. Looking it up for higher calibers (308), again 10mils will get you out to 1k yards easily.

But still, I guess you have to know what turret revolution you're on, otherwise turn up 8mil, shoot, don't set back to zero and don't touch rifle for a few months, then you can't remember if thats 3mil or 8mil. just doesn't seem very useful still Perhaps I'm too OCD and over thinking this way too much.

[Blowby]

I put a silver paint dot at the end of the horizontal line. So I can easily see if I'm up more than a turn from zero. That's my zero "visual" stop for the SWFA. My Viper Vortex PST has a mechanical one that uses shims like stated above. It stops just past zero so I just move it a click or two to get back to zero. Still have to look at both methods to verify exact zero.