SWFA SS Turret Markings

[Blowby]

I put a silver paint dot at the end of the horizontal line. So I can easily see if I'm up more than a turn from zero. That's my zero "visual" stop for the SWFA. My Viper Vortex PST has a mechanical one that uses shims like stated above. It stops just past zero so I just move it a click or two to get back to zero. Still have to look at both methods to verify exact zero.

[BuffCyclist]

I put a silver paint dot at the end of the horizontal line. So I can easily see if I'm up more than a turn from zero. That's my zero "visual" stop for the SWFA. My Viper Vortex PST has a mechanical one that uses shims like stated above. It stops just past zero so I just move it a click or two to get back to zero. Still have to look at both methods to verify exact zero.

Thanks, I may end up marking it with paint once I get it zeroed. Same thing goes for the eyepiece focus (reticle), it is very easy to turn and with the flip up cap on it, it will move.

The storm finally cleared today so I looked out of my room with the scope at a building the next mountain peak over. I used gmap-pedometer and discovered it is .40 miles away (birds eye) or roughly 700yds. At that distance, the scope is crystal clear and I can make out plenty of detail on the building. I'm even able to read a roughly 1ft x 1.5ft sign that is next to the door (deliveries in rear type sign) without much difficulty. I always thought 10x at distances like that would be difficult to resolve anything. Perhaps it was just my first 3-9 scope that was pretty bad because I had trouble seeing targets at 200yds.

Anyways, just having this scope and spending time researching long distance shooting, I feel like I'm learning a lot (theory at least). Am considering picking up one of those 7" x 12" AR500 plates that whats his face is selling on here. My range goes out to 360yds, so that would be roughly 2moa x 3.5moa at that distance, and even at 200yds it would be a tricky target to hit. Now all I have to do is wait until early next week when I get home from work before I can mount the scope and head to the range.

Thanks for all the help everyone!

[skullybones]

Thanks, I may end up marking it with paint once I get it zeroed. Same thing goes for the eyepiece focus (reticle), it is very easy to turn and with the flip up cap on it, it will move.

If you are varying target distance, you will be adjusting parallax often. I wouldn't worry too much about marking the eyepiece focus.

[BuffCyclist]

If you are varying target distance, you will be adjusting parallax often. I wouldn't worry too much about marking the eyepiece focus.

Not parallax, the actual reticle focus that doesn't change at distances (this is the focus ring at the very end of the scope, not the parallax ring at the front of the eyepiece nearest the thin part of the tube).