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What metal are you thinking of going with? I was thinking stainless, but then I got to thinking a pinned aluminum one might work better. It would wear out, but the pull marks would be a little less defined on the projectiles. I might make one too.Originally Posted by KS63
Last edited by Danimal; 02-05-2014 at 01:08.
Couldn't you hinge it so it doesn't wear out?
"There are no finger prints under water."
Probably 7076 aluminum since I have a lot lying around. Not sure yet what degree of taper I should machine in, but I think a 10 degree should work.
The design of this tool reminds me of a brake line flaring tool.
I'd use less taper than 10 degrees, maybe 3 to 5. A nice radius on both the top and bottom would help too. Stainless would be my choice.
.22, .24, .26, .28 and .30 that would rock.
Last edited by MarkCO; 02-05-2014 at 11:39.
Pretty cool design. For all the work, energy, research & development, patenting, lawyers, materials, jigs, machining...etc. that went into this it seems like a pretty fair price to me. And it looks like much better construction and has more available sizes per unit than the cheap looking one from Midway.
I'd buy them if I had the need for 'em
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A friend was so against me buying one, he found a RCBS model at a pawn shop with three collets for $13. Guess I'll try it first and see how it does.
The hammers sucked. I've used them since '92. They suck clock. (Witty huh?)
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Neat tool. Way too pricey for what it is. Plus, in over twenty years of reloading, I think I've pulled maybe five rounds back apart.
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