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Extremely easy, just make sure you get all the parts and sealants in the first trip to the store. Buy extra to avoid a return trip mid project and return any unused items at a later time. Should take about an hour once the old one us drained.
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David - CS, CO feedback
It's a measure of the civility in this country that no ones seems to fear constantly pissing off the people who own lots of guns.
I only have about 50 failed water heaters in the shop and look at about 10 failed water heater lines weekly...
Do not use the flexible copper or stainless braided lines. Pop for the extra bucks and get the corrugated stainless lines. I would buy a new gas line flex connector as well. Read the instructions and use the provided di-electric (or buy new) connections. DO use yellow thread tape on the gas hard pipe connection to the gas valve, DO NOT use thread tape on flare connections.
A permit is required.
I would not call it hard, but it is easy to screw up a connection and end up with a leak a few months, or a few years, later.
Last edited by MarkCO; 03-03-2014 at 08:57.
i respectfully disagree. Copper is the only way to go. In 7 years of being a service tech I haven't seen 10 total. The ones I have seen leaking from the flexible connector were user error because they tried to bend or flex it too much. As far as the expansion tank is concerned we see less leaking t&p valves dripping come spring time due to increased water pressure for watering. I'd rather my expansion tank absorb the pressure than my tank. Next mechanical code book change should have it as a requirement for residential domestic water heaters. Btw we install over 300 water heaters per year.Originally Posted by MarkCO
http://www.rheem.com/docs/FetchDocum...3-710821ace0dd
I forgot to mention that you should consider adding an expansion tank. It will help absorb the pressure fluctuations in the water pressure. Also do NOT put any type of tape(foil, duct etc) on the joints. Not only is it against code but it is not needed. Make sure the lower pipe goes inside of the pipe above it and it will draft properly. Proper pitch for gravity vent is 1/4" per foot of slope, upwards from the appliance to main vent.
I would say that an expansion tank on a domestic water system is a waste of time and money and introduces a failure point with no benefit. On a boiler, yes, but an expansion tank on a water heater in a branched, or even home run system is not needed.
OP - if you're going to go the big box store route for a tank avoid whirlpool, kenmore, state, or anything sold at lowes or sears. Google any of those names and burner assembly malfunction, or how to clean combustion air screen. I recommend the GE tank from Home Depot, or Rheem/ruud. We install 250+ ruud tanks yearly, less than 5 failures that need to be replace per year from a tank. They're lasting anywhere from 8-13 years depending on use, water conditions etc etc.
While I understand your rationale for you reply related to the expansion tank, it makes no sense. I have run whole house testing to prove that the expansion tanks don't even get exercised in a normal domestic water system. T&P valves leaks because of compression set of the polymer seal and failure to operate them on a regular basis. Nothing to do with expansion. They are a nice profit center for plumbers, but are not beneficial on most whole house domestic water systems. On small condos with combo heat pumps, they are very beneficial due to the smaller size of the system. The failures in those systems have erroneously been transferred into a code requirement pushed by $ and a lack of understanding of the system size vs. expansion tank benefits.
There are some copper lines that are good, but some that are terrible china crap. The ribbons are not evenly sealed on many. There is no "mechanical code book". Commercial gets the IPC and residential gets the IRC in Colorado. Most jurisdictions are avoiding adoption of the 2012 specifically because it has a bunch of politically and financially driven mandates that are of no benefit to the consumer.
The stainless braid hoses with the polymeric tube are largely made out of the US and lack a necessary anti-oxidant and thus the material breaks down and fails. I have done extensive research and testing on these and they are probably in first place for US water leak claims currently.
BTW, I love plumbers, especially those who use brute force and water pump pliers for everything, they help me make a living.
So when that water heats up and pressure increases where does the expansion go? You're ok with it on a boiler, and it has no where to go either why not a water heater? Ok mechanical code book was poor choice of words. Residential uses international fuel gas code, and international mechanical code books. Just out of curiosity what cities are you licensed in? Not questioning you or your knowledge just wondering.
No,all boilers should have an expansion tank and they are included in all of my designs and installations. The volume increase due to thermal expansion in a water heater is a few psig. The large assembly of pipes and flex connectors are not rigid, so there is virtually no pressure increase. Pressure spikes due to turning off the tub valve exceed the pressure differential from heating 50 gallons of water from 55F to 130F by about 3 times. Single family dwellings in Colorado use the International Residential Code, not the IFGC nor the IMC which are for commercial and multi-family ONLY!
Granted, most of my work comes about as a result of fixing improper installation and design, but I am licensed in three states.
MarkCO are you a plumber? Are expansion tanks mounted tank up, tank down, or tank horizontal from their attachment I suspect it really shouldn't matter since it is just an expansion chamber?
Last edited by USMC88-93; 03-03-2014 at 12:20.
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