Guidelines to building an awesome AR-15. (Beginners basic stuff) IMHO

[Joe_K]

The AR-15 Type Carbine and How to Build Them

The following is my opinions on what make an accurate and reliable AR-15 type carbine that will outlast all but the best funded and ammo supplied shooter. These opinions have been gathered from my almost 20 years of shooting firearms, 5 years of active duty military service, and drawing from my connections with shooters who have far more time behind the gun than I will ever hope to have.

Our stated goal is to build a 5.5-7lb AR-15 type carbine, in keeping with the original design by Mr. Eugene Stoner, and taking advantage of modern shooting tactics and manufacturing. So here we go.

Bolt Carrier Group:
A full auto mil spec carrier machined from 8620-grade steel, shot peened, staked grade 8 gas key screws.
Bolt machined from carpenter 158 tool steel, HPT (High Pressure Tested), and MPI (Magnetic Particle Inspected), extractor with black insert and o-ring, chrome lined, chromed firing pin.

The Barrel:
Use only a mid length 16”, chromed lined or nitrided. Cold hammer forged, or stainless steel with polygonal rifling. The barrel contour is up to the end user although lighter is better.

Buffer tube, Buffer and spring:
Get a quality Mil-spec 6-position buffer tube. With a mid-length gas system a standard mil spec carbine buffer and spring should be fine although better results may be obtained with an h-1, or h-2 buffer.

Lower Parts Kit and Trigger:
Before a shooter sinks any extra money into a trigger they should be able to outshoot the rifle and its trigger. Stick with a good quality all steel mil spec semi auto trigger; leave the competition triggers to serious competitors. Invest the money you would have spent on that $350 trigger on practice ammo or good quality training.

Hand Guards:
Should you free float or not to free float? That is THE question this largely depends on the shooters budget, and intended uses for the carbine. That said there are no advantages to not free floating a barrel aside from cost. If you can afford it bite the bullet and invest in a quality hand guard.
The barrel is the heart of the carbine if we can relieve it of outside stress and damage we will. You will probably spend more on a barrel than you will any other single part of your carbine. So if at all possible invest in a free float tube. You will get more inherent accuracy from this one upgrade than any snazzy trigger.

The Grip:
BCM Mod 1, or Mod 3. B-5 systems grip. Magpul MOE K-2. U.C.W.G. grip. These all have one thing in common, they put the shooters hand at a more vertical angle making it more comfortable to shoot from all positions.

The Stock:
There are a lot of good options out there to choose from. Here are some you can’t go wrong with.
Magpul's MOE, or CTR.
Mission First Tactical Battle link Minimalist.
B-5 systems crane style. Make sure your stock matches your buffer tube and is mil spec.

The Sights:
Get a good quality fixed front sight If your red dot optic fails you, you can use the tube of your red dot as a giant ghost ring aperture and center the front sight in the tube this will get solid hits out to 100 yards, and it's just one less thing you have to flip up. For your rear sight get a good quality folding model this will allow you to use any optic you attach.

Optics:
Fire 1,000 rounds through your carbine before you get an optic. You should be intimately familiar with your carbine with just iron (or plastic, or aluminum) sights. So for a good quality red dot 1x optic get an aimpoint. A Pro, Comp M3, M-2, H-1, T-1, or the M-4 model will all outlast anything available on the market and provide superior performance in all areas.
For 1-4x scopes pretty much any scope made in USA, Japan, Philippines, Germany, Korea, will work just fine. If you plan on using a 1-4x consider a good set of 45 degree offset sights.

Muzzle Devices:
Low signature devices that are easy to clean and don’t cost more than you paid for the butt stock. Until you have had to clean rocks out of a muzzle device with the targets shooting back you will not fully appreciate this. One of the advantages to any muzzle device is that it protects the crown of the muzzle. Stick with a mil-spec A-2 style till you start shooting faster than 5 shots a second.

The Sling:
This one is simple, get a good quality American made cordura 2-point adjustable sling.

Lights:
Preferably mounted at the 12 or 6 o’clock position. This will give you less muzzle shadow and but the light in line with the barrel. Look at elzetta, inforce, maglight, streamlight, and surefire.

The Charging Handle:
Either the Rainer arms ambidextrous model, or BCMs’ Gunfighter ambidextrous model will give you excellent capability and service for many, many years.

Here is a short list of reputable manufacturers and suppliers of AR-15 parts and accessories.

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/ar-15-05.html
http://www.brownells.com/search/inde...R-15&ksubmit=y
http://www.rainierarms.com/
https://aresarmor.com/
http://blackholeweaponry.com/catalog/
http://parallaxtactical.com/collections/ar-15-series
http://www.magtacticalsystems.com/
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/
https://troyind.com/
http://geissele.com/
http://algdefense.com/
http://aeroprecisionusa.com/
http://www.spikestactical.com/
http://www.magpul.com/
http://www.dpmsinc.com/Store_c_19.html
http://www.knightarmco.com/commercia...al=accessories
http://www.missionfirsttactical.com/
http://www.b5systems.com/products.html

[Mazin]

Good write up man! I will say that the Magpul ACS as another good reasonably priced stock option.

[ray1970]

Some good info. Quite a bit of it just personal preference.

My only advice (which mirrors a lot of yours) is to use quality parts from a reputable manufacturer. And especially don't cut corners with the BCG or barrel.

[MarkCO]

I would suggest you re-title that to "My personal preferences for building an average M4gery".

Sincere thanks for your military service.

[TheBelly]

I would suggest you re-title that to "My personal preferences for building an average M4gery".

Sincere thanks for your military service.

+1 on the first part


+5000 on the second

[cofi]

I would suggest you re-title that to "My personal preferences for building an average M4gery".

Sincere thanks for your military service.

+1 on the first part


+5000 on the second

[BPTactical]

All depends on what the intended use of the rifle is.
What you laid out is OK for a GP carbine or such.
If you want a pasture rat rifle toss out the chrome/nitrided barrel, a ChrMo or SS heavy profile will be more accurate.
Stick with a rifle configuration and the aftermarket trigger will shine.
There is no ideal.

[crashdown]

All depends on what the intended use of the rifle is.
What you laid out is OK for a GP carbine or such.
If you want a pasture rat rifle toss out the chrome/nitrided barrel, a ChrMo or SS heavy profile will be more accurate.
Stick with a rifle configuration and the aftermarket trigger will shine.
There is no ideal.

Agreed!
If there was one true "perfect" AR-15, I wouldn't own so many.

[Joe_K]

This is strictly for a 5.5-7lb carbine that would be used on man sized targets at ranges out to 500-700 meters depending on the individuals application of the fundamentals of marksmanship, sighting system used, and the conditions. It was NOT written as the end all be all of all things AR-15. Also these are but my humble opinions, and opinions truly are like assholes everybody has one.

[lc_nab]

Thank you for the great advice and information, if you don't mind me asking, could you expand a little bit on SBR parts ? If not , I understand and still thank you for the main information.