Close
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20
  1. #11
    I am my own action figure
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Wheat Ridge
    Posts
    4,010
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    They are NC, usually fail open. They are usually intermittent in the failure.
    Good Shooting, MarkCO

    www.CarbonArms.us
    www.crci.org

  2. #12
    Machine Gunner bellavite1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Wheatridge
    Posts
    1,949

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MarkCO View Post
    They are NC, usually fail open. They are usually intermittent in the failure.
    So, if the issue is the hi-limit and I turn off the main switch and jump the wires bypassing the hi-limit the furnace should work?
    I am pretty sure we tried yesterday and still no love.
    Then , with the furnace working, it reached the programmed temp, turned itself off and tried again to restart even though theoretically it should have not, but this time although the igniter was glowing, no flame...Weird...That's why I am shooting for the CPU...I have a headache now...
    NIL DIFFICILE VOLENTI

  3. #13
    I am my own action figure
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Wheat Ridge
    Posts
    4,010
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    There should be a flashing light and a sheet on the cover that tells you what the light means.

    There is a HL, and a flame roll-out, or sometimes referred to as a High-high limit. It is very rare those go out and you should not bypass it.

    The simple way to check the high-limit is to put a ohm meter on it. If it shows open, it is bad. If it shows very low, closed, it is good.
    Good Shooting, MarkCO

    www.CarbonArms.us
    www.crci.org

  4. #14
    M14PottyMouth bryjcom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Windsor
    Posts
    1,900

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bellavite1 View Post
    So, if the issue is the hi-limit and I turn off the main switch and jump the wires bypassing the hi-limit the furnace should work?
    I am pretty sure we tried yesterday and still no love.
    Then , with the furnace working, it reached the programmed temp, turned itself off and tried again to restart even though theoretically it should have not, but this time although the igniter was glowing, no flame...Weird...That's why I am shooting for the CPU...I have a headache now...
    You need to have someone come out and look at it.

    Limit switches don't just go "bad". They go bad by continually being tripped. Boards are not very common to go bad either... The most common problem with boards is the blower relay built into them not turning the blower on.

    Limits or any safety should never be bypassed unless for diagnostic purposes only...
    Offering complete Heating, A/C, refrigeration installation and service in the Northern Colorado area.

    http://windsorheatingandair.com/

    https://www.ar-15.co/threads/20783-F...nd-replacement

  5. #15
    Little Dragonfly fly boy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Cheyenne Wyoming.
    Posts
    3,984
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    I had my board go bad on a unit that was less than 10 years old.

    The fan would kick on when it called for heat. Every once in a while I could get the furnace to fire, but then stop after a day or two, sometimes hours. Finally crapped out for good. Everything was cleaned, no LED's lid up. replaced the board with an Ebay new board and worked perfect. Saved $90 an hour on an HVAC guy, and did it all myself. Took the old board off, and when I unplugged from 1 wire, I plugged into other - so I would lose where they went.

    GL!

  6. #16
    M14PottyMouth bryjcom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Windsor
    Posts
    1,900

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fly boy View Post
    I had my board go bad on a unit that was less than 10 years old.

    The fan would kick on when it called for heat. Every once in a while I could get the furnace to fire, but then stop after a day or two, sometimes hours. Finally crapped out for good. Everything was cleaned, no LED's lid up. replaced the board with an Ebay new board and worked perfect. Saved $90 an hour on an HVAC guy, and did it all myself. Took the old board off, and when I unplugged from 1 wire, I plugged into other - so I would lose where they went.

    GL!
    They do go bad.. Just not as often as people (or technicians) think. Its funny to hear from the factory that most of the "bad" boards they get back for warranty aren't bad at all.

    The other day I thought I had a board go bad on a commercial water heater. Called tech support and he said "Yup.... sounds like a bad board to me. Board costs $458" . I hang up with him, and I'm about to tell the customer when I find that the fuse had fallen out of the board and it just needed to be put back in.
    Offering complete Heating, A/C, refrigeration installation and service in the Northern Colorado area.

    http://windsorheatingandair.com/

    https://www.ar-15.co/threads/20783-F...nd-replacement

  7. #17
    Official Thread Killer rbeau30's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    AURORA, CO
    Posts
    2,631

    Default

    I had the front cover bowed out a little bit, probably from the last time it was serviced when I was buying the house. It didn't push in the front cover switch enough to tell the unit the front cover was on it.

    Just thought I would throw that in there.

  8. #18
    Machine Gunner bellavite1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Wheatridge
    Posts
    1,949

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bryjcom View Post
    They do go bad.. Just not as often as people (or technicians) think. Its funny to hear from the factory that most of the "bad" boards they get back for warranty aren't bad at all.

    The other day I thought I had a board go bad on a commercial water heater. Called tech support and he said "Yup.... sounds like a bad board to me. Board costs $458" . I hang up with him, and I'm about to tell the customer when I find that the fuse had fallen out of the board and it just needed to be put back in.
    Well, in my case it was the board:
    Way too much erratic behaviour, so I got me a board (Do-It-Yourself Plumbing and Heating, $109) and swapped it out.
    Came right back on, has been running like a champ ever since.
    The annoying part is that this is the 3rd board I change in about 9 years...
    Never saw a burn, just a "darker color" around some of the components...
    I wonder wether this is just a crappy brand (Goodman) or there is somenthing else causing the boards to fail.
    I changed it last time maybe 4 years ago, and the darker color was around different components.
    I am going to save this last failed board and compare it with the next.
    NIL DIFFICILE VOLENTI

  9. #19
    I blame everything on Tummy Aches
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Brighton
    Posts
    7,688

    Default

    I will trade you a furnace install for that night force... [coffee]

  10. #20
    Stamp Licker/Whore TriggerHappy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Saudi Aurora
    Posts
    2,293

    Default

    It was a dirty filter, Im pretty sure anyways.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •