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  1. #1
    Machine Gunner Brian's Avatar
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    Mar 2009
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    All done, wasn't bad at all. The only annoying part was trying to get the old brass washers off the brake line, while brake fluid was dripping all over the place. No clue how they were supposed to come off but I ended up chopping them off with a pair of snips so I could put the new ones on. Got the little guy to play with the pedal for me so we could bleed the lines - brakes are great now.

    The e-brake is now weak and goes all the way to the floor before it bites, so I'll need to fix that this weekend, but it's soooo smooth compared to where I was. I don't know what the brake shop guy was talking about when he told me my pads were fine. The inside rear pad on the right was grinding well into the metal, and the inside pad on the left was about 99% gone too.

    Thx for the feedback - saved at least $400-500ish in the end for what was a pretty easy job.

  2. #2
    The "Godfather" of COAR Great-Kazoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian View Post
    All done, wasn't bad at all. The only annoying part was trying to get the old brass washers off the brake line, while brake fluid was dripping all over the place. No clue how they were supposed to come off but I ended up chopping them off with a pair of snips so I could put the new ones on. Got the little guy to play with the pedal for me so we could bleed the lines - brakes are great now.

    The e-brake is now weak and goes all the way to the floor before it bites, so I'll need to fix that this weekend, but it's soooo smooth compared to where I was. I don't know what the brake shop guy was talking about when he told me my pads were fine. The inside rear pad on the right was grinding well into the metal, and the inside pad on the left was about 99% gone too.

    Thx for the feedback - saved at least $400-500ish in the end for what was a pretty easy job.
    Set the e-brake 1/2 way down. Then follow cable to the adjuster nut[s] You'll know what to do from there. I like vacuum bleeding , one person job easy to do, except the off the work seat to refill m/cylinder and back. Then up and back., again.....

    Feels good to have done the job yourself and put that extra money in your pocket. There are some jobs it's How Much and How Long ?
    Last edited by Great-Kazoo; 11-21-2014 at 22:44.
    The Great Kazoo's Feedback

    "when you're happy you enjoy the melody but, when you're broken you understand the lyrics".

  3. #3
    Machine Gunner Brian's Avatar
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    Mar 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo View Post
    Set the e-brake 1/2 way down. Then follow cable to the adjuster nut[s] You'll know what to do from there. I like vacuum bleeding , one person job easy to do, except the off the work seat to refill m/cylinder and back. Then up and back., again.....

    Feels good to have done the job yourself and put that extra money in your pocket. There are some jobs it's How Much and How Long ?
    Yeah but it's not like the e-brake on my jeep, which was super easy to adjust the nuts. Apparently I have to take off the calipers and rotors to get at the e-brake drum to adjust on the tahoe - it's under the rotor. Talk about a stupid design, at least from a servicing standpoint. Wish I would have paid better attention to that part when I was doing the brakes. I read something about brake shoes and said "nope, not me - tahoe has disc brakes." Duh, the e-brake is a drum. Apparently if it's warn down it's a PITA to get the new shoe on too, but I'm hoping I'm ok as it was working just fine before. Oh well, tomorrow's my birthday. Maybe I'll take the day off and not worry about it.

    It holds ok unless I'm on a slight slope. Parked in the slanted driveway, if I switch into reverse, it starts to roll slowly, so I'll need to fix it, but it's not super-urgent.

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