I need a durable, clear finish for wood.

[Irving]

I made this jump box for my crossfit class. It is made to be jumped onto and off of over and over, and that's about it. I like the unfinished, utility look, but it is almost impossible to handle without getting splinters. It's going to a location that has a lot of kids, so I need to make it smooth and safe. Can anyone make recommendations for some sort of clear coat or sealer or something that I could use? Ideally, I'd like something that will fill up the gaps, but still be clear to keep the look of the box. I don't want to spend a month curing this or anything though. My other idea is to lightly sand it, paint a solid color, and still throw some type of clear coat on there. Suggestions appreciated.



Box dimensions are 20x24x30 and is made out of 3/4" plywood (thanks T-Giv!)

[newracer]

Shellac or polyurethane.

[Irving]

Any advice on how to properly apply those products? I don't think I've used a wood stain since high school wood shop class.

[Great-Kazoo]

Any advice on how to properly apply those products? I don't think I've used a wood stain since high school wood shop class.

Read the inst on the side of can ? It's not a stain, since it's going to be abused grab a brush and apply.

[mb504]

Cover it with truck bed liner!

BTW, you might want to run a 3/8" round bit router around the edges. It will reduce splitting and cuts.

[newracer]

Any advice on how to properly apply those products? I don't think I've used a wood stain since high school wood shop class.

Both are easy, as Jim said the directions are on the can. You can get them in spray cans too but it is more expensive. Just make sure the surface is clean and dry. You will need to lightly sand between coats.

[Irving]

Cover it with truck bed liner!

BTW, you might want to run a 3/8" round bit router around the edges. It will reduce splitting and cuts.

I thought about this. The screws are too close to the side to realistically pull this off I think. I may ask a wood working relative to borrow something though. Routers sure are nice to have when you need one.

Both are easy, as Jim said the directions are on the can. You can get them in spray cans too but it is more expensive. Just make sure the surface is clean and dry. You will need to lightly sand between coats.

Okay, I figured as much. I guess I wanted to make sure there was nothing tricky involved. Think 5 coats would do it?

Thanks guys.

[Great-Kazoo]

I thought about this. The screws are too close to the side to realistically pull this off I think. I may ask a wood working relative to borrow something though. Routers sure are nice to have when you need one.



Okay, I figured as much. I guess I wanted to make sure there was nothing tricky involved. Think 5 coats would do it?

Thanks guys.

Sure, till it gets knocked over. Myself id go to tractor supply, buy one of the rubber style horse mats, cut to size then gorrila glue to box. Varnished or polyurethane, wood is still wood. Approach this as if its going in a kids playhouse. What's the best material to use (cheaply) to avoid injury.

No good deed goes unpunished.

[buffalobo]

Run your palm sander all around it with 80 grit then 150 grit and 2-3 coats of epoxy paint. Splinters and chips at edges is result of matl used. Just the nature of the matl.

[Tim K]

Polyurethane is the right product for durability, but it's painfully slow to dry. It can be applied with a brush, which probably makes it your only good choice for a clear finish. Anything better and faster drying needs to be sprayed.

I wouldn't bother with 5 coats. Put on two or three or whatever it takes to feel splinter free and plan to slap on another dome day down the road when or wears off.

Sanding might do everything you want without any finish at all.