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  1. #41
    Rebuilt from Salvage TFOGGER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HoneyBadger View Post
    What do you mean "with points"?
    Pre 1975 igntion, developed by Otto Kettering. Mechanical breaker points to fire the coil.
    Light a fire for a man, and he'll be warm for a day, light a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life...

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  2. #42
    Gives a sh!t; pretends he doesn't HoneyBadger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TFOGGER View Post
    Pre 1975 igntion, developed by Otto Kettering. Mechanical breaker points to fire the coil.
    Oh, nifty.
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  3. #43
    The "Godfather" of COAR Great-Kazoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TFOGGER View Post
    Pre 1975 igntion, developed by Otto Kettering. Mechanical breaker points to fire the coil.

    Since people (younger ones) have no clue. It's always important to remember dwell effects timing, not the other way around. SO Dwell (point gap) must be set before throwing a light on it.

    WHAT'S A LIGHT, HOW DO I ADJUST POINT GAP, TIMING?? That's your homework for the weekend kids, have a safe one .
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  4. #44
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    I still have a dwell meter and a timing light. I still use them now and again.
    Light a fire for a man, and he'll be warm for a day, light a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life...

    Discussion is an exchange of intelligence. Argument is an exchange of
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  5. #45
    The "Godfather" of COAR Great-Kazoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TFOGGER View Post
    I still have a dwell meter and a timing light. I still use them now and again.
    They're must have tools. Do you have brass feeler gauges
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  6. #46
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    Kazoo, just rip one of the tabs off the point box and use that to set the point. The thickness of the cardboard is just about right. At least enough to get you going again. Ya know...for those roadside fixes. (This only pertains to putting new points on, assuming timing wasn't moved)

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  7. #47
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    .017 will make almost anything with points run. Brass is preferred, but not required. The only time you really need brass is setting air gap on early Mopar and Ford electronics, as magnetic gauges cause issues.
    Light a fire for a man, and he'll be warm for a day, light a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life...

    Discussion is an exchange of intelligence. Argument is an exchange of
    ignorance. Ever found a liberal that you can have a discussion with?

  8. #48
    The "Godfather" of COAR Great-Kazoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave_L View Post
    Kazoo, just rip one of the tabs off the point box and use that to set the point. The thickness of the cardboard is just about right. At least enough to get you going again. Ya know...for those roadside fixes. (This only pertains to putting new points on, assuming timing wasn't moved)

    What do I win?

    Nothing unless you carry, or use to, a screw driver and master link on your key chain To keep the bottle opener company

    You forget dwell / point gap effects timing, not the other way round. Once point gap is changes, timing is also.
    Last edited by Great-Kazoo; 12-12-2014 at 17:42.
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  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo View Post
    Nothing unless you carry, or use to, a screw driver and master link on your key chain To keep the bottle opener company

    You forget dwell / point gap effects timing, not the other way round. Once point gap is changes, timing is also.
    Its a Ford so I carry a box of "emergency tools/parts" in the trunk.

    Yeah, but it'll be close enough to get you home.

  10. #50
    The "Godfather" of COAR Great-Kazoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave_L View Post
    Its a Ford so I carry a box of "emergency tools/parts" in the trunk.

    Yeah, but it'll be close enough to get you home.
    Absolutely. Question is, how many can change a flat tire? Or even know how to use the "jack" the mfg provides.
    The Great Kazoo's Feedback

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