New Form 1 Suppressor

[thvigil11]

It looks like my last thread got lost in the great purge. So I'll post up some of the old stuff and some new. As a refresher, this is not meant to be a full instruction on NFA construction, laws or machining for that matter. I am not a professional, these are just the methods I have found to work for me. Any suggestions on how to improve the process are always welcome. As for the NFA stuff. KNOW YOUR LAWS!. Plenty of online material to learn about making a form 1 suppressor. Its fun and can done by the very skilled all the way down to those who find a can opener challenging. I've seen and heard some great results from the freeze plug can guys. I myself have just enough skills to be dangerous to myself and wallet, so I have been going for more advanced methods. My only real machining advice is this. Research your material, goals, and machine. Measure, measure, measure. And know that sometimes you will go through 2-3 hours of setup to complete a 30 second milling operation. Especially if you are using an old school hand machine.

If you recall. My previous form 1 was a 8" 308 can with. Goals were decent suppression, low weight and QD ability. Below is a crude representation of how I machined the cones. As for the suppressor body, it was simply a process of turning and threading a tube. Lotsa instructions on the interwebs on how to do that. The first set of cones were out of 410 Stainless if I remember right. Fair machinability, gotta watch it a little. The tube is TI grade 9 with matching endcaps. Rear cap was made for a Griffin Taper Mount Flash Hider. Found the specs on Silencertalk and took alot of measurements myself. Spacer material used was 2024 AL. Again, The spacers are structural for alignment, about the only issue is possible wear from jetting, but I'll keep a look on it.








There she is sitting on my SCAR 17. I'd call it hearing safe, 12.9 OZ and QD, so all my goals were a success. (Flash hider adds 2.5 OZ) Since then, I've cut down the barrel to 14.1 and pinned/ welded the FH, chopped down the MI extension some more and Kryloned the whole enchilada. Super handy battle rifle now. Ordered up some gas jets to tune the system a little since the barrel chop. Will play with that when they come in.

[thvigil11]

At the time I was waiting on another stamp. Usually I rocksett the endcaps on to keep the cans secure, so I failed to get internal pics of the last one. I had thought of full documentation of this new can, but once again I forgot most of it. Here are what pics I do have. This one was planned as a 6.5" direct thread 5.56 can. Tube and endcaps are again Grade 9 TI. One end was threaded for 1/2x28. My buddy got an indexer so I've added some "speed holes". (For using a pin spanner for assembly/ disassembly) The cones this time are 4130 steel. (because I had a nice piece that was just the right size). Some may naysay using 4130, but there are lots of old school steel cans out there out there that are still kicking. Plus what are barrels made of, HUH? Smarty Pants! Again the spacer material is 2024 AL.


Method for the cones was essentially the same as the previous can. Different speeds for the material, but 4130 does cut easier than the 410. Here's the cone as it came of the machine, and then a cut down cone to make the finished bore size, and a cone with the clip cut for cross jetting. Didn't go for a really polished finish, Figured a rough finish might help turbulence. (or something)



Here's all the parts show together. This was test fired, so you see some coloration and staining.



For this one I got a picture of an M4-2000 cutaway I found online. I scaled the pic and took some measurements. Turns out the AAC baffle spacing on their can was .375". So I thought I'd give it a try. Here's the baffle stack mounted on my precision alignment tool. (Conveniently made by Craftsman)



What?? 5.6OZ lighter than an M4-2000!!! Inconceivable!!!



Now it has a semi perm place of honor on one of my more favoriter rifles. Needs more Krylon, though. Don't have access to an M4-2000 to compare it against. Sounds quieter than a 5.56 Surefire though. Only so much you can do with 5.56 though. Works for me.



Note: I have studied what Chris from Diversified Machine has been making and selling. (See the form 1 info on those other website) I readily admit, I have shamelessly copied many of his and other design elements.

[Dave_L]

Did you go direct thread because of the smaller size? Im kicking the idea around and I want a compact (5.5" or so) one. But the muzzle brake will take up a bit of space in the can and space is going to be limited.

[thvigil11]

Did you go direct thread because of the smaller size? Im kicking the idea around and I want a compact (5.5" or so) one. But the muzzle brake will take up a bit of space in the can and space is going to be limited.

Basically, yes. I'm also going for I can for every gun, so QD doesn't totally do it for me. With direct thread I was able to squeeze as much volume into the shortest length. Next can in the works will be a QD 6". It will be fun to compare the 2. It will be the same basic design, except 1 less baffle and a giant ass flash hider stuffed in there. Much closer to the AAC M4 than this one.

[Dave_L]

Yeah, that's my goal also. I have a couple commercial cans that I dont mind having on a QD platform but Form 1's are so cheap, Im thinking direct wouldn't be a bad option. My goals on these are to try and keep the OAL around 16" and that means I need to stay at 6" or under. Good to hear you had success on the smaller can.

[thvigil11]

Yep. I did go with the super shorty 10.5 for a while, but the extra pressure was just really hard to deal with. Shortest 5.56 I have right now is 11.5, but I don't really suppress that. The 14.5 with a 6 inch can puts it right at 20 inches which works for me. Plus it's just so pleasant to shoot compared to even a 10.5 with an 8 inch can.

[Dave_L]

I'll be doing a couple 11.5" so I'll let you know how they run. I do have a 14.5 upper that may get a can on it but I'll pin something there to avoid a double stamp. Only thing I have suppressed right now is a 8.5" .300 (my first dip into the NFA game) and that is just a blast to shoot. Hopefully the 11.5's aren't horrible with suppression.

[thvigil11]

I'll be doing a couple 11.5" so I'll let you know how they run. I do have a 14.5 upper that may get a can on it but I'll pin something there to avoid a double stamp. Only thing I have suppressed right now is a 8.5" .300 (my first dip into the NFA game) and that is just a blast to shoot. Hopefully the 11.5's aren't horrible with suppression.

Neato! I've tried my 8 inch design on the 11.5 733 clone. It worked well. From the outside it looked like the old 727 with the Ops inc Suppressor. (Circa Battle of the Black Sea) Pretty fun in fact.I've toyed with the idea of making a home for that suppressor on the 11.5. But right now I'm thinking with another QD mount I could switch my 8" QD can or my soon to be 6" QD can back and forth. Will have to get some pics for ya.

[Great-Kazoo]

I'll be doing a couple 11.5" so I'll let you know how they run. I do have a 14.5 upper that may get a can on it but I'll pin something there to avoid a double stamp. Only thing I have suppressed right now is a 8.5" .300 (my first dip into the NFA game) and that is just a blast to shoot. Hopefully the 11.5's aren't horrible with suppression.

Not at all. I will say if you're going to do a Ti F1, direct thread. After shooting. Don't have any plans on removing it Or putting it in a case. Took forever for mine to cool down. I've now gone with a MB. Going to see how much, IF any the Db reduction is. Those SDTA brakes only go 1.25 in to a can. Using a 2" blast chamber, it's not that much intrusion.

[Dave_L]

Yeah, I ordered the brake and then started thinking about it after the fact. Look forward to hearing how it compares now with the MB installed. I figure it's a supersonic round so I'm fighting an uphill battle on it anyways. Im just looking for reduction so the MB may still let me accomplish that. I have the .300 subsonics for ultimate suppression.