Another electrical question

[Hotchef181818]

Hotchef, turn off the breaker to this circuit, double check with your meter that it is dead.
Then remove the wires from the right switch and clean all the corrosion off the wires.
And with the breaker off, put a wire nut on the red wire and black hot wire, you can leave the short black jumper out.
Now go turn on the breaker and check the pool light. It should come on if it is good, and you just determined if your new switch is junk.

The new switch(one on the left) is the pool switch. It's not a cut jumper, just stripped to run around the screw and then over to the spa light switch(right). If I remove the switch on the left(pool) and twist the red wire around the stripped area on the black wire would it accomplish the same thing ?

[SideShow Bob]

No, what you are trying to do is eliminate the suspect switch. What ever wires going to the switch need shorted together, in the case of the left switch, take both black wire off of it (from the screws on the same switch) and wire nut together. * Turn the breaker off first*!

Still clean the corrosion on the other wires too.

[Hotchef181818]

No, what you are trying to do is eliminate the suspect switch. What ever wires going to the switch need shorted together, in the case of the left switch, take both black wire off of it (from the screws on the same switch) and wire nut together. * Turn the breaker off first*!

Still clean the corrosion on the other wires too.

Bob, that's one wire on the left switch which is the suspect switch. It's just stripped where it loops around the screw and then heads over to the spa switch. I think you're looking at the switches backwards and want me to wrap the red around the black on the left switch. Make sense ?

[Hotchef181818]

Would it be possible that there is an issue at the gfi causing this? My understanding is that the white, green and black hot wires are coming from there. I don't see any difference in wiring between the 2 switches that would imply there is a downstream issue but thought it was worth asking.

Next question, is it possible corrosion on the light socket is the culprit? I looked closer today and there is some brown corrosion on the contacts. Would that cause this issue ?

[thvigil11]

What is between the switch and the light. GFI? Pics of the wiring at that GFI might help. Outdoor gfis can be problematic, especially after seeing corrosion on the rest of the system.

[Hotchef181818]

What is between the switch and the light. GFI? Pics of the wiring at that GFI might help. Outdoor gfis can be problematic, especially after seeing corrosion on the rest of the system.

Lim 99% sure the gfi is before the switch. I'll get some pics of the gfi tomorrow. It's operating properly though.

[Sparky]

For shits sake lets simplify this.

1. Test constant hot to neutral. Constant hot is the black wire attached to both switches. One lead on the black and one on the white. Do you get 120V? If so step 2
a. If you do not get 120v your problem is before the switch.

2. Turn on the switch and test switch leg to neutral. Do you get 120V? Switch leg is the other wire on the switch.
a. If you do not get 120v throw switch in the trash and get a new one.
b. If you do get 120v the problem is either the wire underground or the light fixture.

Most pools have a deck box somewhere that the cable from the wet niche fixture terminates in. If you turn the switch on you should get proper voltage. If the spa light works fine I suspect your problem is after the GFCI.

[Hotchef181818]

For shits sake lets simplify this.

1. Test constant hot to neutral. Constant hot is the black wire attached to both switches. One lead on the black and one on the white. Do you get 120V? If so step 2
a. If you do not get 120v your problem is before the switch.

2. Turn on the switch and test switch leg to neutral. Do you get 120V? Switch leg is the other wire on the switch.
a. If you do not get 120v throw switch in the trash and get a new one.
b. If you do get 120v the problem is either the wire underground or the light fixture.

Most pools have a deck box somewhere that the cable from the wet niche fixture terminates in. If you turn the switch on you should get proper voltage. If the spa light works fine I suspect your problem is after the GFCI.

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[Hotchef181818]

I'll look for a box in the bushes behind the light tomorrow, hopefully my problem is in there.

[jslo]

"WouId it be possible that there is an issue at the gfi causing this? My understanding is that the white, green, black hot wires are coming from there."

Now I'm confused. if your two wire is bringing in the power than your 3 wire would then be your switch legs. Therefore the black spliced jumper is wrong. Unless I'm missing something, you need to verify which is your power supply.