Heat tape is your friend.
I woke up to 10˚ and had water.
Check for water line exposures. Up here water lines have to be at least 3' below grade. The weak point is the access to the house for me.
Heat tape is your friend.
I woke up to 10˚ and had water.
Check for water line exposures. Up here water lines have to be at least 3' below grade. The weak point is the access to the house for me.
Micheal HoffHard times make strong men
Strong men create good times
Good times create weak men
Weak men create hard times
Our water lines are run 4 - 5' below grade (entry to the main house is almost 10' below grade). Water from the pump enters the pit about 18" off the floor and flows through about 2' of PVC and some brass fittings to a pressure gauge, from there it splits out to each house and the holding tank. Neither house had water and the tank was empty, pressure gauge was reading 0 so it was either frozen up between the pump and the gauge or the pump wasn't getting power, I don't know which at this point but I plan on finding out. There are some smaller brass pipes/fittings between the pump PVC and gauge so if it was frozen, that's my guess as to where the problem was.
The well pit is the weak point at the moment. it's 6.5' deep (5 x 5) and encased in cinder blocks with pored concrete and rebar but it has a shitty, rotted away cover and no insulation. it's my fault for not replacing it sooner but I've already talked with the well company about a pored concrete roof with insulation that should be in next week depending on weather. The pump itself is only 2 years old but I'm going to have the electric re-run along with a line for an outlet and a pit heater. At the moment the closest outlet is over 100' away.
It should be nice and toasty in there tonight, heading down to make sure the LP heater is still running.
Man, I need to learn more about electrical in general, any electrician on here want to give a few hours of private lessons for good $$$. I'd rather learn from someone who knows what they're doing than watch YouTube. Waiting until things fail just isn't working out for me. I don't even know how the hell to tell if these fuses have failed.![]()
I could run by Sunday afternoon and give you hand trying to figure things out.. I have a bunch of experience trouble shooting my own well.
The Great Kazoo's Feedback
"when you're happy you enjoy the melody but, when you're broken you understand the lyrics".
True, but having your own well and septic brings it to a whole new level... You are your own water company and sewer company...
Things that work fine with chlorinated/fluoridated city water have issues with well water (like water heaters, and could be many more if you have hard water)
I don't know if I'd want a concrete cover for the well pit, sounds too heavy when you need to get in there. Build one out of cedar or other rot-resistant wood, with quality insulation, and make it to fit tight. In the short term, some foam insulation cut to fit like a tight cover will keep it warm. But also install heat tape on a thermostat as a backup.
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ, we are the III%, CIP2, and some other catchphrase meant to aggravate progreSSives who are hell bent on taking rights away...
No offense taken at all. You're 100% correct, which is why I want to learn to do a lot of this myself, at the very lest I'd like to be able to tell if there was power going to the pump or the freaking fuse was blown. I don't have many skills at the moment, especially when it comes to electrical but I don't mind paying someone and following them around since I'd rather not learn by trial and error when it comes to things like the well. That's one of the main reasons I'm looking for an electrician who owns their own business or is doing side work. If it takes longer since they're showing me a few things I'm happy to pay them for their time and I don't want them worried about getting to the next job as quickly as possible.
I'm fully planning on leaving septic completely to the professionals.![]()
Be careful when using n LP heater in an inclosed space. Ventilate the space before entering it, you could have a high concentration of CO in there. You could go in, and not come out,
You can tap the power at the pump to run some heat tape to keep things warm if the overload protection can take the load of the tape and starting current of the motor.
My T.P. wheeling and dealing feedback is here.
Opinions are like assholes, everybody has one, and it stinks more than mine.
Yo Homie, That my chainsaw ?
Pati, improbe et vince
Thanks for the offer, I think we're good to go for now.
Good advice, I'll let it clear out for a few minutes after removing the cover.Be careful when using n LP heater in an inclosed space. Ventilate the space before entering it, you could have a high concentration of CO in there. You could go in, and not come out,
You can tap the power at the pump to run some heat tape to keep things warm if the overload protection can take the load of the tape and starting current of the motor.
Not sure how to tap the power at the pump, would I just cut the 3 prong off of the heat tape and match up white and black (ignoring ground)? Would it be best to tap in above the fuses (between the switch and the breaker feeding the pump)?
Thanks, just ordered the book off of ebay for a good price and I also grabbed the Ortho wiring basics book.
On a side note, we rebuilt the cover yesterday, replaced the rotting 2X4's and added some R30 insulation to the cover (there was none before) and no issues last night. I would have liked to build a new cover but it was too freaking cold out.![]()