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  1. #11
    BIG PaPa ray1970's Avatar
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    See. They admit that staking "keeps the screws from backing out". Which is why I prefer mine to be staked.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkCO View Post
    My reply has nothing to do with building competition guns, nor opinion at all. Sorry your feelings got hurt, but when you state something that is inaccurate on a forum, is there not an invitation for discussion. If you want to say things and not have them refuted, fine, but that would not be a forum. The problems you are seeing is due to improperly balanced systems, not the parts themselves.

    If you think what you said is right, why not let your words stand instead and let forum members see what they think instead of spewing hostility?
    Mark, my skin is way thicker than that. Unfortunately, many here don't know the difference between your opinion and truth. I do. You have no idea what I've seen. You have no clue at all. I see mis timed systems regularly. I also see the turmoil that advice like yours causes. If you want to refute things on a forum, expect to be told you are incorrect when you are incorrect.

    As for the Young Manufacturing letter you posted, LOL, you want to see the YM in my 18 inch that came loose and had to be staked afterward? They are EXACTLY the manufacturer I am talking about. But... you clearly know better.
    Mom's comin' 'round to put it back the way it ought to be.

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  3. #13
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
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    Is it safe to say the middle ground is that bolt carriers should be able to not be staked if assembled properly, but they aren't assembled properly, so they should be staked?
    "There are no finger prints under water."

  4. #14
    BIG PaPa ray1970's Avatar
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    Mate we can just split the difference and stake one bolt and not both.

  5. #15
    I am my own action figure
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    Irving, if the seal is made and the torque level required is not quite enough, then staking can keep it operating for a long useful life. If the torque level is much too low, then the stress riser from staking can cause fracture and result in a loose key, and leakage, with a bolt head that looks okay. There are a LOT of sloppy and counterfeit parts out on the market over the last few years, so buyer beware is good advice on carriers and bolts as well. A gas key that is properly sealed and torqued, and then properly staked, sure, there is not a thing wrong with it and boots and suspenders is not bad at all.

    ray1970,
    Last edited by MarkCO; 01-11-2016 at 20:46.
    Good Shooting, MarkCO

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  6. #16
    BIG PaPa ray1970's Avatar
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    If I were installing a gas key I would lap the key to the carrier for a good fit, put a bit of permatex #2 under it, torque it to spec, and then find some way to secure the bolts. Staking would be a pain without a special tool. Maybe I'd cross drill the key and bolt heads and drive in some small roll pins or something.

    Fortunately, I have no plans to assembly one so my Frankenstein plans will not have to make anyone here cringe.

  7. #17
    The "Godfather" of COAR Great-Kazoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray1970 View Post
    If I were installing a gas key I would lap the key to the carrier for a good fit, put a bit of permatex #2 under it, torque it to spec, and then find some way to secure the bolts. Staking would be a pain without a special tool. Maybe I'd cross drill the key and bolt heads and drive in some small roll pins or something.

    Fortunately, I have no plans to assembly one so my Frankenstein plans will not have to make anyone here cringe.
    Not the correct tool, however a center punch works. IMO cross drilling "might" weaken the key. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
    The Great Kazoo's Feedback

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  8. #18
    Machine Gunner
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray1970 View Post
    If I were installing a gas key I would lap the key to the carrier for a good fit, put a bit of permatex #2 under it, torque it to spec, and then find some way to secure the bolts. Staking would be a pain without a special tool. Maybe I'd cross drill the key and bolt heads and drive in some small roll pins or something.

    Fortunately, I have no plans to assembly one so my Frankenstein plans will not have to make anyone here cringe.
    I'm thinking I have a nice little mig welder. If I were to run a bead around the entire head of each screw and then take it to the grinder to smooth it out, it should stay put.

    Crap. I forgot, all great home gunsmiths use a dremel tool, not a grinder.
    Last edited by encorehunter; 01-12-2016 at 08:58.

  9. #19
    Feelings, Nothing more than feelings KS63's Avatar
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    You could TIG weld the key to the carrier, that's an option if you'd like. A better idea is, and I don't have a BCG in front of me to measure, would be larger bolts for a higher Yield or higher quality bolt material for a higher clamp load. Go piston system if you can't seem to keep your gas keys on. Never knew this was a problem.
    If the Odds are equal, you're doing it wrong

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  10. #20
    Little Dragonfly fly boy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sackett View Post
    Would love to hear your thoughts on gas system selection (carbine, nid, etc) for the average shooter.

    THIS PLEASE!

    I would prefer a 16" BBL, but most are carbine gas length. Should I compromise with either a 18" BBL and middy, or 16" and carbine?

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