80% lower Question

[Irving]

Yes, to the first part.

Okay, thank you.

[nogaroheli]

Okay, educational. Thanks for the big insight guys!

[jkoby27]

Now, here's were I get fucking annoyed with people. You start positing pics of your 80% shit on line and believe that nobody is going to call you on your under the table finish job. You can't explain how you did the finish, and you know damn well you can't admit you convinced a buddy to commit a felony for you. How can anyone be able to describe in detail exactly how they CNC machined a sig lower but when asked multiple times how they anodized the lower can only post a you tube video? This fails even the most simple critical

First off the gun I built isn't shit. Second I didn't cnc machine anything. I never said I did. I bought this project as a kit online that came with everything needed to complete. I did not finish it on a cnc machine. I'm not a machinist and have no clue how to operate a cnc machine hahaha so wtf are you even talking about. The kit came with a rail cutter that is easy to use. It also came with a drilling jig so you use a simple powered drill to drill the holes. This isn't a very hard project like you think. At least not with the jigs I bought. I'm not the only one who as said it and I'm definitely not advising it but a 12 year old could complete the lower with these jigs, they are that easy. Honestly the hardest part was assembling the fucking pistol cause I'd never assembled a sig haha. One of the anodizing video I posted was part 3 of a 4 part video series on how you can build one of these 80% sigs. I'm not trying to be an asshole and I might have gotten a little defensive when I could tell you were trying to incriminate me on this forum. I apologize. It's just a battery acid anodize bath braaaaa lol. It may look good in the photos but it already scratching, especially the takedown lever has been scratching the frame and also I've noticed in the magwell the magazine is chaffing on the inside of the magwell which is wearing through to the bare aluminum but it doesn't matter cause you can't see in there when your shooting. Anyways like I said earlier I looked into the laws before I started this project to make sure I was within my legal boundaries. SA if you really want me to write up some directions on battery acid anodizing I guess I could. You will need distilled water, baking soda, plastic buckets, sheet of lead, Turkey pans, titanium or aluminum wire, die(you can use clothing dye), battery acid, battery charger. But basicly you degrease your aluminum your anodizing and your wire in a decreasing bath using dish soap lol. Then you rinse it off good and use gloves so you don't get any finger oils on the aluminum. Use a plastic bucket for your anodize bath. Needs to be in a ventilated area around 70 degrees. Set your lead sheet in the anodize bath bucket and fill it with 1 gallon of distilled water. Then pour the battery acid in to the distilled water. Use 1 quart so it's 4 to 1 ratio of water to acid.. be careful when handling the acid. (Wear gloves that are thick or chemical resistant) connect negative end of battery charger to the lead. Turn your charger to 2 amps. Place the aluminum your anodizing into the bath and suspend it with the wire and a wooden stick. Connect your positive lead to the wire. If bubbling occurs on the lead it's working and the anodizing has started. Leave it for an hour in there and make sure the temp is around 70 degrees. Check it with a thermometer. Prepare your die bath and boiling bath while your waiting. The dye bath is distilled water and dye and should be at around 125 degrees. The boiling bath is just distilled water. So once it's been in the anodizing bath for an hour, rinse it in distilled water and then put it in the dye bath. Leave it in there for about a half hour. Then take it out of the dye bath and put it in the boiling bath for a few mins. Take it out let it cool off and dry that son of a bitch off and assemble ye pistol lol! I'd recommend watching or reading some tutorials or video as there could be a few details I left out. Also enlist a buddy to have around for moral support lol and to make sure your following the directions. I chose my father haha

[Grant H.]

I know he's gone, but I'll answer this anyway for future reference. 80% lowers have problems with the lack of surface hardening that anodizing makes. The holes wobble out for the hammer and trigger and safety selector. KNS pins help, but eventually even they are futile if the holes get too out of spec. Then you have a couple of hundred dollars sunk into a piece of shit paperweight. There are lots of motivations to go this route, but the one I hear constantly is to circumvent a government paper trail. Sorry, but the purchase of the 80% lower left a trail. I know, I used to run down trails like this all the time as a fed. The other is because they want to make their own, it's an extension of building your own gun. I get it. I do it for a living. Because I build about 500 ARs a year and service three times that I get to see what does and doesn't work. These don't, not for any lengthy about of use at least. So you get stuck. The solution is to anodize it and extend the longevity.

So, how many rounds does it take for one to wallow out?

How many have you seen wallowed out?

Not trying to pick on you, but you are invested in people NOT doing 80% lowers (lets be honest, you are involved in a store that does a lot of business selling stripped lowers or completed rifles), and you don't give any actual information in your post. You just say it won't work out that well.

[68Charger]

So, how many rounds does it take for one to wallow out?

How many have you seen wallowed out?

Not trying to pick on you, but you are invested in people NOT doing 80% lowers (lets be honest, you are involved in a store that does a lot of business selling stripped lowers or completed rifles), and you don't give any actual information in your post. You just say it won't work out that well.

There are too many variables to quantify that- 6061 vs 7075, forged vs billet... if there is any heat treat, etc.

If it is wallowed out, there are repair methods- drill to a larger side and install bushings...

like this service (but done in your garage): http://www.triggerwork.net/arrepair.html

[Irving]

I was going to ask about just drilling larger and installing bushings from the get go.

[henpecked]

Place a ball bearing over the oversize hole and give it a tap.

[jkoby27]

I was going to ask about just drilling larger and installing bushings from the get go.

I would probably do that as a last resort only if the holes really did get wallowed out. My buddy who is the one who helped get me into guns and also convinced me to try building my own has an ar15 built with an 80 lower and he has owned it for almost 2 years now and has had zero issues. His lower is 7075 aluminum not 6061. The lower is also raw unfinished aluminum. 6061 doesn't provide the same high strenght and stress resistance as 7075 I've been told. Maybe the 6061 lower holes are more likely to wallow out if unfinished.

[Grant H.]

There are too many variables to quantify that- 6061 vs 7075, forged vs billet... if there is any heat treat, etc.

If it is wallowed out, there are repair methods- drill to a larger side and install bushings...

like this service (but done in your garage): http://www.triggerwork.net/arrepair.html

I'm aware of these factors making a difference, and yes, using a steel bushing would be a 100% diy-accomplishable task that would fix it. I don't count myself in the standard DIY group, because I have a lot of tools that most people do not.

Just trying to get him to back up his assertions that 80% lowers don't work, since they actually do.

[hurley842002]

A lot of chips on shoulders around these parts lately...