Suspension thread

[Irving]

In order to remove the spring, the shock must first be removed. Also disconnect the sway bar on either side, and disconnect the upper rear trailing arms.

Here you can see the old shock is connected at the bottom and the top, only two bolts. Got rust? I cut the cover off the old shock because the top nut was crusted on so bad that the body was turning instead of the nut. I have to grip that top plate with pliers in order to loosen the nut.


Just to the right of the spring, you can see where the upper trailing arm connects. This is where I broke my ratchet that I was using as a breaker bar. I have an actual break bar (that I purchased after the last time I broke a ratchet), but it didn't fit as well. In the case of the Amigo, this trailing arm will limit the amount of flex once you get into the 3" range of lift as it hangs up on the fuel tank. There is a bent trailing arm on the market, but I doubt I'll wheel seriously enough to be worth the purchase. We'll see.


Old vs new spring. The springs are Moog CC247. Not much taller than factory, but much more stiff, which provides the lift. Stats show lift up to 2.65" on a Rodeo, with an additional 1" for Amigo/Rodeo Sport since they are lighter in the rear.


I was able to get just the driver side spring in last night and had to call it quits since all my ratchets were broken at the same time. Found out they have a lifetime warranty though, so that's nice.

[Irving]

Rear is done now. I have to give thanks to my wife, who actually laid around on the ground and got dirty helping me. She actually installed both shocks and the right spring and helped bolting stuff back together. Also get to thank my neighbor, who torched off the right shock top nut and only barely started the Amigo on fire at all. Really, very small fire and I was ready with the extinguisher, which didn't function the way I thought and I had to learn on the fly.

Driver side after install.



The shocks are VERY tight. Think I should figure out a washer or bushing of some sort? They don't really move much at the bottom, but I'm worried about vibration over time. Excuse the fire extinguisher residue.





Protip! When you reattach the upper trailing arm, the axle will have relaxed and it won't quite line up with the bracket. I've read other people struggling with this and inviting lots of friends over to coax it back into place. I was looking at this thing imagining all the swearing, kicking, sledge hammer, and bloody knuckles it was going to take when I had an idea. Using this jack made it almost a one man job and was easy and gentle. Highly recommend this method.



Terrible night photo, I know. I'll take one during the day tomorrow before I get it back into the garage to start on the front. Back half is done at this point.

[Irving]

Daytime pictures. About to tackle the front. Hopefully it's not like the rear where what should take 3 hours takes 2 days due to rusted on parts.

[ray1970]

You should leave it like that. And grow a mullet.

[Irving]

The nice thing about torsion bars is I can raise or lower the height with a turn of a bolt. Then I can gradually lower the front end as my hair grows longer.

[jmg8550]

You should space the shocks out just a bit. Looks like they'll rub and may get damaged.

[Irving]

I agree. I think even a single washer would create enough space to relieve it. I think I'll remove one before I go to Napa and see if I can find some in stock. If not, hit up Home Depot or Ace Hardware.

[Irving]

Washers in the rear worked perfectly. Wife was going to Home Depot so I challenged her to bring me back the correct washers. I sent her to the store with the factory washer with instructions of inner hole at least as big, outer diameter no larger. She had to ask three different people before she found someone who knew exactly what she was asking for, "Oh is this for shocks?" and she came back with something just right.

[newracer]

Remove the shock boots, they just trap dirt and moisture.


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[Irving]

I wish you would have suggested that 36 hours ago. I suppose if it's a problem I could always cut them off.
What if I just snip the zip ties on the bottom, so they are still "open" like the factory sleeves?