Close
Page 6 of 9 FirstFirst 123456789 LastLast
Results 51 to 60 of 81

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    My Fancy Title gnihcraes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    CastleRock/Lakewood
    Posts
    4,426

    Default

    The crimp pliers would be the same ones used for doing sprinkler system pipes, but what you've got/made is perfect in my opinion.

    here is one at home depot. poly pipe crimp

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-Po...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

  2. #2
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    46,527
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Yeah that's it. Since I put the axle back into the vehicle before I crimped, it turned out to be beneficial for me to use the tiny version that I had made.

  3. #3

    Default

    What was the cost / time / effort of the boots vs. buying reman axles?

  4. #4
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    46,527
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Reman axles are only $57, new are $75. Boots can be had for around $10- $12 each, but I'm under the impression that those are cheap in price and quality. I got boots from Napa that feel more thick than factory for $27-$33 each. So boots cost me just over $100, and axles would have been the same. The difference is mostly just the mess of dealing with all the grease and the time to clean and repack everything. Half of this project (and most of the projects I start) are just to learn how, so I'm not too upset about the extra effort. In the future, just buying a reman will be the way too go.

    **I made a point to spring for better boots because they'll be under more stress at the new driveline angle, also, for some reason I thought I could leave the axle installed and slip the boots on and off.

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Irving View Post
    Reman axles are only $57, new are $75. Boots can be had for around $10- $12 each, but I'm under the impression that those are cheap in price and quality. I got boots from Napa that feel more thick than factory for $27-$33 each. So boots cost me just over $100, and axles would have been the same. The difference is mostly just the mess of dealing with all the grease and the time to clean and repack everything. Half of this project (and most of the projects I start) are just to learn how, so I'm not too upset about the extra effort. In the future, just buying a reman will be the way too go.

    **I made a point to spring for better boots because they'll be under more stress at the new driveline angle, also, for some reason I thought I could leave the axle installed and slip the boots on and off.
    Right on. When I was a tech, I only did remans - too messy & time consuming.

  6. #6
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    46,527
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    At another stopping point. The old torsion bars seem to be welded into the keys. I was able to easily knock off the control arm collars, but the keys are not moving a bit. They are going to soak all night in PB blaster and I'll see if anything changes in the morning. Right now the plan is to take them some where that can press them off for me. My trusted mechanic is unavailable right now, so I'll have to look around and find someone who can do what I need and hopefully not charge me a ton of money. After that, it's just six bolts and some adjusting.

    Does anyone have a good source for where I can order parts to build my own quick disconnect sway bar links? EDIT: I need to order a couple of Heim joints.

    EDIT 2: Looks like this site sells exactly what I need. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...MPXNO=22569081

    Now I need to figure out if I just want to use a piece of all thread (probably not) or find some studs that I can have welded together.

    One guy I saw actually cut his front sway bar in half, then welded tubes on either side, and put a pin in a collar to hold the two sides together. When he goes to wheel, he just pulls that one center pin and the sway bar just twists independently on each side. Very cool, but I don't think I can hot link the photos onto this thread so you can see what I'm talking about.
    Last edited by Irving; 11-12-2016 at 22:56.

  7. #7
    The "Godfather" of COAR Great-Kazoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Washboard Alley, AZ.
    Posts
    48,107

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Irving View Post
    At another stopping point. The old torsion bars seem to be welded into the keys. I was able to easily knock off the control arm collars, but the keys are not moving a bit. They are going to soak all night in PB blaster and I'll see if anything changes in the morning. Right now the plan is to take them some where that can press them off for me. My trusted mechanic is unavailable right now, so I'll have to look around and find someone who can do what I need and hopefully not charge me a ton of money. After that, it's just six bolts and some adjusting.

    Does anyone have a good source for where I can order parts to build my own quick disconnect sway bar links? EDIT: I need to order a couple of Heim joints.

    EDIT 2: Looks like this site sells exactly what I need. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...MPXNO=22569081

    Now I need to figure out if I just want to use a piece of all thread (probably not) or find some studs that I can have welded together.

    One guy I saw actually cut his front sway bar in half, then welded tubes on either side, and put a pin in a collar to hold the two sides together. When he goes to wheel, he just pulls that one center pin and the sway bar just twists independently on each side. Very cool, but I don't think I can hot link the photos onto this thread so you can see what I'm talking about.


    If you ever need parts like this again, Rocky Mountain bearing, fastenal or Grainger. RMB is my first choice.
    http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...MPXNO=22569081
    The Great Kazoo's Feedback

    "when you're happy you enjoy the melody but, when you're broken you understand the lyrics".

  8. #8
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    46,527
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo View Post
    If you ever need parts like this again, Rocky Mountain bearing, fastenal or Grainger. RMB is my first choice.
    http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...MPXNO=22569081
    Thank you, I've been looking around and it seems like I can source parts for much cheaper.

  9. #9
    BIG PaPa ray1970's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Thornton
    Posts
    18,799
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    If you need someone to press the keys off let me know. I have access to a couple of presses.

    Unfortunately, I'll be out of pocket until after next weekend.

  10. #10
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    46,527
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    I was hoping to have it drivable by this weekend, but it's not looking like it so far. I'm going to reach out to some other contacts I have and see if I can't get it done sooner. If not, I'll certainly take you up on that offer Ray.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •