In order to remove the spring, the shock must first be removed. Also disconnect the sway bar on either side, and disconnect the upper rear trailing arms.

Here you can see the old shock is connected at the bottom and the top, only two bolts. Got rust? I cut the cover off the old shock because the top nut was crusted on so bad that the body was turning instead of the nut. I have to grip that top plate with pliers in order to loosen the nut.


Just to the right of the spring, you can see where the upper trailing arm connects. This is where I broke my ratchet that I was using as a breaker bar. I have an actual break bar (that I purchased after the last time I broke a ratchet), but it didn't fit as well. In the case of the Amigo, this trailing arm will limit the amount of flex once you get into the 3" range of lift as it hangs up on the fuel tank. There is a bent trailing arm on the market, but I doubt I'll wheel seriously enough to be worth the purchase. We'll see.


Old vs new spring. The springs are Moog CC247. Not much taller than factory, but much more stiff, which provides the lift. Stats show lift up to 2.65" on a Rodeo, with an additional 1" for Amigo/Rodeo Sport since they are lighter in the rear.


I was able to get just the driver side spring in last night and had to call it quits since all my ratchets were broken at the same time. Found out they have a lifetime warranty though, so that's nice.