pole barn/steel building/shop

[fly boy]

We are building a house, but within a year I would like to build a garage for tinkering on vehicles, fixing furniture, etc. There are so many options and prices anywhere from $1,000 to 100,000.

Are there any pro/con's I should consider?

I know I will need electric
Will need a flooring that can hold a vehicle
doesn't have to be insulated, but would need to be weather proof for storage of household items.

Can you post pictures of your build if you did it?

[kwando]

I am going to the process of hiring someone to build a 40'x60' pole barn on my property now. I've contacted Cleary and Steel Structures of America, and have appointment next week to get quotes. Neither places will do the electrical, and you have to do the leveling/excavating yourself. Standard concrete floor is 4-5" fibermesh. Some places will do rebar concrete. I am new at this as well, and i'm also learning.

[EvilRhino]

I'm putting up a metal building right now. Down to trim. 40x60x16 and I've put in every bolt and screw myself.

My neighbor just put up a similar pole barn, dirt floor.

Pros/cons as I see them;
I had to have a foundation engineered for about $500. Concrete cost more than the building, about $21k. He can pour a slab whenever he wants and it doesn't have the deep walls or footers.

Mine is clear span. 16' at the side and almost 20' in the center to the roof sheeting. He had trusses, so a flat ceiling.

This part could be all in the shopping, but I paid about $15.7k for my engineered building with big ass supports and delivery. $16.4k with tax IIRC. He paid about $20k for his, just the wood and metal.

On the exterior, they look almost exactly the same.

ETA neither of us have done any utilities including electric yet.

[fly boy]

I am going to the process of hiring someone to build a 40'x60' pole barn on my property now. I've contacted Cleary and Steel Structures of America, and have appointment next week to get quotes. Neither places will do the electrical, and you have to do the leveling/excavating yourself. Standard concrete floor is 4-5" fibermesh. Some places will do rebar concrete. I am new at this as well, and i'm also learning.

How did it turn out?

I'm putting up a metal building right now. Down to trim. 40x60x16 and I've put in every bolt and screw myself.

My neighbor just put up a similar pole barn, dirt floor.

Pros/cons as I see them;
I had to have a foundation engineered for about $500. Concrete cost more than the building, about $21k. He can pour a slab whenever he wants and it doesn't have the deep walls or footers.

Mine is clear span. 16' at the side and almost 20' in the center to the roof sheeting. He had trusses, so a flat ceiling.

This part could be all in the shopping, but I paid about $15.7k for my engineered building with big ass supports and delivery. $16.4k with tax IIRC. He paid about $20k for his, just the wood and metal.

On the exterior, they look almost exactly the same.

ETA neither of us have done any utilities including electric yet.

What needs to be done pre-build if I plan on a dirt floor, concrete a few years later?

examples:

https://www.menards.com/main/buildin...694867&ipos=24

https://www.menards.com/main/buildin...895392&ipos=68

[Great-Kazoo]

Pour the slab AFTER the building is up & inspected. Do Not put the frame on the slab. Depending on county assessment it will determine how you're taxed. In Weld cty my pole barn is considered a Utility Shed, costing under $80 per yr. The foundation should reflect the use you'll have for it. Want to put a 4 post auto lift 6" slab. Anything else and 4" will do it, include an apron in your expense.

Wire it for 220, get a bigger panel then you think you'll need. How many windows? You might consider putting a few of these on the roof for indirect light, wish i would have done a few. The panels we have (suntuf) over our patio have held up to 1 tornado, 3 hail storms and who knows how may 50+ mph wind & rain storms.
http://www.palramamericas.com/Produc...sheets/SUNTUF/



Nothing is weatherproof, one good wind storm coupled with solid rain will find any weak link. Add insulation in to the build price, being in wyo, you'll wish you did it before rather then later.

but would need to be weather proof for storage of household items.

Based on the last sentence. Build it bigger than you're thinking of now. That whole oh honey i want to put a few items in the garage turns out to having everything but your stuff in there.
OR build with 14' sidewalls so you have loft space for items to be stored, without them needing to be accessed on a weekly basis. A 14' sidewall will give you room for that 4 post bendpack lift you know you want.
http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/four-post-lifts/

[TheGrey]

The number of windows, and the size would be of interest to me. The height of the walls as well- if you'll be using it for a number of things, do you want to make it two stories, or at least a loft for holiday decorations, etc?

I second getting a bigger panel than you think you need. Do you want a deepwell or garage sink there, for easy clean-up?

I'd certainly insulate. From what I understand of Wyoming, there is a great deal of wind. I'd do whatever was needed to make it sturdy against the elements that are particular to your section of the state. You may even find yourself wanting to plug in an electric heater in the winter.

Will it be a stand-alone building?

[fly boy]

14' walls for a loft sounds like a damn good plan
It will be stand alone
Didn't plan on putting plumbing in, it will be closer to house and no real need for it
I'll have to look up tax info, the slab after is interesting information
I was thinking a wood burning stove for heat... freebie (ish)


Are there more benefits of wood vs steel of vice versa?

[Great-Kazoo]

14' walls for a loft sounds like a damn good plan
It will be stand alone it will be closer to house and no real need for it
Didn't plan on putting plumbing in, It's the one thing we didn't do and should have. The $$ to drop a line from your house or well is cheaper before you start, then after you finish. Trust me having a wash station AND shitter real close, versus running to the house during a Wyo snow storm. You will be glad you had one.

I'll have to look up tax info, the slab after is interesting information. If it sits on the slab, it's considered a permanent structure. Most if not all non commercial metal buildings have a slab poured after the structure is up.

I was thinking a wood burning stove for heat... freebie (ish) Now you have to factor in adequate ventilation, insulation (to code) for the stove. Supply of wood for X years. Fire proof (to code for ins) storage for any combustibles, since the stove is considered an open flame.
You don't plan on insulation? Kiss any form of heating goodbye


Are there more benefits of wood vs steel of vice versa? Forget wood. Wood frame is considered another permanent dwelling as it's going to be on (see above) slab / foundation. There's (IMO) more hassle code ,tax and building wise to wood frame than what's called a pole barn / steel building. YMMV

[Bailey Guns]

Insulation is cheap relative to other costs. Do it. Especially in WY, and especially if you're going to want to be working in it in the winter. Without it your heat is going to go right thru the ridge.

Electrical. I only had a 100 amp service installed. I wish I'd gone with at least 200 amp. I haven't outgrown it...yet...but I can see where it could easily happen.

I was told by the concrete guys that a lift only requires reinforced "pads". You don't have to spend the money for 6" of concrete throughout the shop. But it's something you have to plan for when the concrete is poured. I have no idea how it works. I had no need for a lift so I didn't explore it further.

I added a 22x24 carport extension to the front of my pole building. Only added about $1200 to the cost and it's one of the handiest features of my shop. It provides protection for my vehicles and can easily (and at a relatively inexpensive price) be enclosed later should I choose to do that and it would increase the size of my shop by about 60%.

[Wulf202]

If you put in plumbing make sure it's set up to winterize easily. A washout sink is real handy.

Also consider running some copper pipe for air from a shop compressor to various places you'd use it instead of dragging a hose.

In floor radiant heat is the best for shops but must be planned from the beginning