Close
Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 36

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    Machine Gunner
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Tulsa
    Posts
    2,288

    Default Water Heater Flooded basement.

    So wake up to no hot water. Go into basement. Rushing water from the center flue stack or whatever of the hot water heater. Killed the water. Utility room is bare concrete with a drain that doesnt seem to hardly drain for shit, was a little clogged with lint from A/C line I never saw since the pipe obscured.

    So In surrounding area I've got some painted walls that are showing bunching/wrinkling of the paint, then the carpet on other side of walls are a swamp. Oh and as I type this I guess I should turn off the gas, though letting it heat whats in there might be nice for one last shower before starting to deal with this shit.



    Freak out restoration company or should I just start with wet vac and a carpet shampoo-er to sop up the carpets? Going to shop for a new water heater I guess, will Home depot etc delivery usually offer haul away? Things going to be heavy I'm guessing even if I'm able to drain it?

  2. #2
    Worlds Shortest Tall Guy kwando's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Elizabeth, Colorado
    Posts
    3,675

    Default

    That blows! Shitty was to start the day. I believe Lowe’s and Home Depot will haul the old unit away if you pay for them to install it.


    I’d wet vac as much as possible and get some fans for air flow. Then evaluate the damage.
    "An armed society is a polite society when a man may have to back his last words with gunplay."

    My Feedback

  3. #3
    Machine Gunner
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Tulsa
    Posts
    2,288

    Default

    Should I space heater the room for warmth and the fans. Or am I better off despite the cold opening basement windows w/ fans to allow the cold but dry outside air in/out?


    Awesome part is I have to report to work in greeley for like 15mins until relief arrives then come back home. Irks me I can get an emergency call and be somewhere with 10 mins prep + travel vs others seem to need like 3 hours to get their asses in gear.

  4. #4
    The "Godfather" of COAR Great-Kazoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Washboard Alley, AZ.
    Posts
    48,076

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fitz19d View Post
    Should I space heater the room for warmth and the fans. Or am I better off despite the cold opening basement windows w/ fans to allow the cold but dry outside air in/out?


    Awesome part is I have to report to work in greeley for like 15mins until relief arrives then come back home. Irks me I can get an emergency call and be somewhere with 10 mins prep + travel vs others seem to need like 3 hours to get their asses in gear.
    Dehumidifier and Fans, high volume ones. Space heater creates condensation
    The Great Kazoo's Feedback

    "when you're happy you enjoy the melody but, when you're broken you understand the lyrics".

  5. #5
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    46,527
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    If you're going to make a claim, insurance should pay for mitigation company. Even if you do all the restoration yourself, having it properly dried out and wet materials removed is a big deal and a big help.
    "There are no finger prints under water."

  6. #6
    Grand Master Know It All
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Dickshooter, ID
    Posts
    4,828

    Default

    Extract the carpet, rent a rug doctor. Roll it back and trash the pad. Put carpet fans under the carpet so it billows. This will also dry the cement. Rent at least 2 dehumidifiers. Any walls that are completely soaked cut a hole in them low and high and put a carpet fan on the lower hole. Turn the heat up and run your a/c. If you can't do both at once cycle back and forth. If you have vinyl just strip it out, ceramic should be ok.

    You can check sheet rock with a moisture sensor which is actually a continuity tester so if you have that setting on a multimeter you can skip buying it.

    You have 72 hours from first water before mold sets in to get it completely dry. Don't skip steps, if it seems daunting claim insurance and get a restoration company in today before they get busy

  7. #7
    Machine Gunner thedave1164's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Evans, Colorado
    Posts
    1,802

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wulf202 View Post
    Extract the carpet, rent a rug doctor. Roll it back and trash the pad. Put carpet fans under the carpet so it billows. This will also dry the cement. Rent at least 2 dehumidifiers. Any walls that are completely soaked cut a hole in them low and high and put a carpet fan on the lower hole. Turn the heat up and run your a/c. If you can't do both at once cycle back and forth. If you have vinyl just strip it out, ceramic should be ok.

    You can check sheet rock with a moisture sensor which is actually a continuity tester so if you have that setting on a multimeter you can skip buying it.

    You have 72 hours from first water before mold sets in to get it completely dry. Don't skip steps, if it seems daunting claim insurance and get a restoration company in today before they get busy
    Excellent advice from a man of experience.

  8. #8
    Carries A Danged Big Stick buffalobo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Hoyt
    Posts
    15,824

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wulf202 View Post
    Extract the carpet, rent a rug doctor. Roll it back and trash the pad. Put carpet fans under the carpet so it billows. This will also dry the cement. Rent at least 2 dehumidifiers. Any walls that are completely soaked cut a hole in them low and high and put a carpet fan on the lower hole. Turn the heat up and run your a/c. If you can't do both at once cycle back and forth. If you have vinyl just strip it out, ceramic should be ok.

    You can check sheet rock with a moisture sensor which is actually a continuity tester so if you have that setting on a multimeter you can skip buying it.

    You have 72 hours from first water before mold sets in to get it completely dry. Don't skip steps, if it seems daunting claim insurance and get a restoration company in today before they get busy
    Spot on.


    If you're unarmed, you are a victim
    If you're unarmed, you are a victim


    Feedback

  9. #9
    Machine Gunner
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Tulsa
    Posts
    2,288

    Default

    Dehumidifier a couple days likely with the 30g/day dehumidifiers or plan on like a week of running them?

  10. #10
    Grand Master Know It All
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Dickshooter, ID
    Posts
    4,828

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fitz19d View Post
    Dehumidifier a couple days likely with the 30g/day dehumidifiers or plan on like a week of running them?
    You should plan on 3 days if you don't have hygrometers. Continually check with a moisture meter and move fans to the area also reduce the square footage to only the effected areas even tent it off it it's one wall of a big room. Electric heaters or forced air. Do not use fuel based heaters, their byproducts are humidity.

    After three days there's no point and you're into mold remediation where dehumidifier will spread spores.

    You're on the clock...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •