General vehicle thread

[Irving]

I'm not sure. I haven't gotten around to asking on the Isuzu board, as it's pretty slow now a days. I'm thinking that the cup doesn't really matter since I bet the inside shafts are the same, but in order to change that I have to drop the whole diff and that just isn't going to happen this time around. Either way it's annoying because if I want to carry a spare axle, now I've got to carry two.

[Irving]

Okay, so here is the deal with the CV cups. On the right is factory, and on the left is the aftermarket. Usually when you replace an axle, you just do the outer, so all the remans are the OEM style. However, if you buy a complete axle, I think the companies use the tripod style like you see on the left. As long as the spline count is the same, it doesn't really matter.


Well, I don't want to have to carry two different style half shafts in case I break one on the trail. So, in order to replace that cup I have to find a complete OEM axle, and drop the entire front axle assembly and diff just to get that cup off of there. I've already got all the front suspension parts off to be replaced anyway, so I decided to pull the differential as well. I was going to change the diff fluid anyway, but I probably would have put it off for a while. Glad I pulled the diff because it seemed like there was less than a cup of fluid in there.



Soooooo since the diff is out, might as well go full potato and do a diff drop. I checked out what it takes to do a diff drop on a Tacoma/4Runner and it's just pulling two bolts, adding a spacer and longer bolt and putting it back together. Looks like it might take 30 minutes. That's not the case with Isuzu. If you try to drop the whole bracket with a spacer, it runs into the steering. So it's a bit more involved.








Now I've got to grind everything flat and get it all painted. I complain about how easy this is on whatever model Toyotas, but the videos I saw you only put a 1" spacer under the front two bolts and ignore the back bolts. So those guys only get 1/2" of diff drop, which doesn't seem like much. Mine is a full 1.5" drop, and I'm probably only going to lift it 2". I'll also notch the cross member that goes right under the diff. Notching it saves all your ground clearance as opposed to just lowering the bolt holes. I can fit 33's with no lift and maybe a little rubbing. I think with a 2" suspension lift I might be able to stuff 35's. I'm considering doing a 1/2"-1" body lift. I used to be opposed to body lifts, but it feels like 2" suspension and 1" body lift might raise the center of gravity less than a full 3" suspension lift. I'm not sure how the math works out. Also, I only need like 1/2" body lift to mount sliders to the frame without cutting the pinch weld along the bottom of the body.

Oh yeah, the low gears arrived.

[Great-Kazoo]

your welds are looking good.

All i did was replace an injector on the jeep. 1 injector from parts store $53. Online 6 for $75, 2-3 week ship time. 1 it is.

[Erni]

Nice job. I would sugest extending the side flanges to the end of the plate edges too. Right now the outside bolts will do little to support the diff.

[Gman]

Those welds look pretty good!

You're putting a lot of work into that old Isuzu.

[Irving]

Thanks guys. There isn't really a way to extend the sides beyond just welding on more metal. This is pretty much the way it gets done on these; even when you order custom brackets from a company for $300 or whatever. Just judging from all the other guys that did all this stuff a decade ago and still have rigs that are holding up, I'm not worried about it much. The brackets really only hold the weight of the diff which feels like less than 100lbs.

[Duman]

You obviously didn't go to the Helen Keller school of welding, like I did.

[Erni]

Updates on the trooper?

I just ordered a ton of parts for the kids car. Fluid changes from front to back and a CV rebuild.

Not going to say this will be fun. But there is something enjoyable about getting tasks accomplished on cars.

[Irving]

Spent a full two hours grinding those welds flat last night. I don't understand how I managed to get such thick welds with how large of gap I had to fill. Now I need wire brush the brackets and prime and paint. Still need to source OEM axle. Need to return the first lift coils (for the rear) that I ordered, as I have different ones and shocks in route. A Lokka for the front is also on the way. Can't wait to get everything back together and actually be able to use the 4wd, but I'm still pretty far away. Still have the clutch and low gears to do.

[UncleDave]

Stu, you are going how wild on that thing! Long live the $50 car!!