I'm struggling to get my knuckle assembled again. Everything is taken apart, but I can't seem to find the magic combination for the order everything is reassembled.
Nah, the speed sensor for the ABS needed to be disconnected to get enough articulation. Now I'm having trouble getting the tie-rods to seat. I took them out and measured them and they are actually smaller in diameter than the factory ones. I might put them in the freezer for a few hours and try torching the knuckle when I got to put them in.
I didn't top coat yet, but it came out ugly. I can still see the very small stress lines. I might need sand it down, and bondo more.
Put a bondo and made the surface smooth. Problem is that I can still see a bondo mark after 5th base coat. I would need to continue this project well over tomorrow.
So after a few minor difficulties here and there, everything is back together. Thanks for the help on the tie-rod KS63.
I used a square clamped to each rotor to set a basic alignment that is good enough to get me to an alignment shop. I didn't put the lock nuts on the tie rod and after driving the truck for about 50 miles and watching the steering wheel move a bit more each time I drove it, it finally occurred to me what I had done, and then I got to do the whole thing a second time. Otherwise, it worked pretty well.
Here it is with the Amigo that I sold a few minutes after taking this picture.
The rear springs and shocks were easy compared to the front. Only took about an hour and a half, and most of that was dealing with a rusted on shock bolt that we just ended up cutting off. At full droop, the springs pretty much just popped out, so I'm concerned with having a way to keep them from falling out at full flex on one side or the other. What have other people done?
Left is factory Trooper rear spring, center is the OME 2919 (installed) and the right is the BDS 034211--17.25"--240 lbs/in--lift 3.5". I originally bought the BDS but thought it'd be too high and too stiff. I haven't returned the BDS springs because Amazon won't pay the return and the cheapest quote I've gotten for shipping is 50% of what I paid for the springs.
Before
After
CV angle on the Amigo without a diff drop
CV angle on the Trooper with diff drop. I think the Trooper is lifted a bit less, but still very happy about those CV angles.
I've got a 1" body lift on the way from Classic City Overland, but not sure if I'll install it yet. I want to be as low as possible, but I don't want to clip the seam weld on the bottom of the rockers to fit sliders.
Very nice. Ironically with this angle you will probably bever break a half shaft.
Looks like I will be going the other way and increasing my cv shaft angle, just need to choose keys and put together the order.
Wuestion on the cv boots. Are they rubber or plastic? How hard was it to crimp the bands on?
Boots are rubber. They are a pain in the ass to clamp on because you are full of axle grease while you do it. I remember getting advice on this years ago, on here, when I did the Amigo. I used a little Harbor Freight cutter that I filed down the sharp so they were crimpers more than cutters. Also, bend the tightening tab a little before you put it on just to give the crimpers a bit more purchase. It's frustrating at first, but once you figure it out it isn't bad. Just remember that there is a crimp tab that tightens everything up, so don't kill yourself trying to get it tight at first.