Stu, no pictures. There are two thrust washers keeping the right shaft in. One has two ears the other just plain. I cupped them both running the slide hammer. Remove the clip on the inside.
Stupid mistake due to being exhausted. Brain said go faster instead of maybe think about it.
I did that with my inside axle. I pressed it off and bent a couple clips in the process.
Woot Woot. A local dealer had the parts in stock. $16 and a drive and I was back to putting things together. Let?s hope I did not screw up the diff.
Need to lube all the joints, tighten the torsion bars and put on some wheels. Then I need to figure out if my alignment is close enough and done. My alignment shop doesn?t have an opening till Friday so there is that.
Also got to return all the loaner tools and extras.
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I think I posted pictures, but you can clamp some straight metal to each brake disc, and measure between front and back until they are the same, or maybe 1/4" more narrow in the front, and that'll get you close enough to cruise around until you can get to the alignment shop. I used squares since I had two and they were the same size and I could mount them in the same position. Don't forget to tighten down all the adjustment nuts when you're done or they will wander on you as you drive around.
Thanks for the tip.
You say disk brakes so I assume car on jacks suspension bottomed out is ok?
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I think ideally you're supposed to have it at ride height, but again, we're talking about getting it close enough to get it drive able. I've seen people that do the same thing with the tires on and under weight, but I wasn't going to trust that I could get accurate measurements using some spot on the tread on each side. Also, probably make accessing the adjusting nuts more difficult with the tire in the way and the vehicle lower to the ground.
Here is a video:
Here is an even more in-depth video:
Thanks Stu. I got the tie rods close to old length by eyeballing. Will jack up the wheels close to ride height and check the alignment then torque torsion bars. Just got to get it from my house to Steve?s so should be fine.
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Jacked the front end close to ride height and measured as far up on rotors as I could. It was a hair toe out, and three turns got it just a bit toe in. Drove it to the alignment place and man the car sounds better. Precise steering and the tires do not sound as loud anymore.
Bad news might be the front diff is on the way out. Found a few tiny metal parts but combined with leaking seals it usually means the carrier bearings are shot. Allegedly it takes only 4 hours to rebuild the diff but it may need gears , and sometimes the housing replaced. Will keep an eye on it. Need to decide if the $850 that a replacement is worth it.
The new Broncos are looking better and better....,
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