General vehicle thread

[Irving]

I just looked it up, it was Stan's Alignment toward Aurora.

[Erni]

Stu, is that due to rubber failure or a tear due to crap hitting the rubber? Could also be pinching it due to the 2? lift, I say that because the rips are sort of mirrored.

Bummer about the axle.

[Irving]

Only the passenger side lower ball joint boot is torn, in the first picture. Everything else is okay. It does kind of look like something just stabbed the ball joint boot, so it might not be Moogs fault at all.

[thedave1164]

Moog is like a lot of other brands, they are just riding the name and the quality is India level.

[MrPrena]

No part. No manufacturers vehicle purchase regardless of Jet , EV or ICE.

Benoit was appalled by Tesla?s behavior, especially given that it is a ?company that claimed to be so green and environmentally conscious,? he noted.

Meanwhile, Tesla?s cars ?are sitting in fields with all these lithium ion batteries and all that lithium literally goes back into the Earth,? Benoit pointed out. ?So it?s like: wait a minute. I thought you were being sustainable??

https://www.vice.com/amp/en/article/...ight-to-repair

[TheSparkens]

I just looked it up, it was Stan's Alignment toward Aurora.

Thanks again I was having a hard time finding it. I will call them.

[SouthPaw]

So someone smarter than me may be able to point me in the right direction. I have two similar issues going on with two separate vehicles. Both batteries have been replaced a year ago.

2014 GMC Terrain - Car was having trouble starting last year so I went to test the battery. Upon inspection, the negative cable was so corroded, I actually pulled the post out of the battery removing it because it was seized. Battery was replaced with a Napa Legend 75 series. A week ago, car went into limp mode with every light on the dash on (ABS, traction control, stability control, check engine, oil pressure, etc) while driving on the highway. Pulled over, shut off and restarted. All lights were now off except the check engine light which was for fuel circuit voltage high or something similar. Drove fine the rest of the way home. Once I got in the garage it seemed to me like a battery problem so I inspected the cables. Again, the negative cable was corroded but not quite as bad this time. I got it apart, cleaned it all up and sprayed some corrosion protective spray on it. During this, there was one tiny wire with an eyelet attached to it that ran along the negative cable and attached to a small ground bolt right before the terminal. Both the eyelet and bolt were corroded and while cleaning the eyelet, it snapped off. I cut it off and replaced with a new one so I am thinking maybe that was for some BCM or possible ECM ground that was on its last leg. Has been fine so far with no issues.

2000 Tundra - Battery was replaced a year ago with Napa Legend 75 series. On this truck, the positive cable gets heavily corroded and the battery leaks through the caps. About six weeks ago, I removed the cables, cleaned them up, sprayed protectant and put those cheap little felt pads on it. This morning, the battery was dead and had to be jumped. As you can see from this pic, it has been leaking enough to start eating the paint off the hold down strap.



So I have one vehicle that corrodes the negative cable and one that corrodes the positive terminal. I don?t think it?s the batteries as the Terrain was already doing that to the OEM battery. Any ideas what to start checking out?

[SouthPaw]

Went and got the tundra battery tested and it was bad. Rated at 875cc and tested at 486cc. Hopefully that was the cause.

[Irving]

Thanks again I was having a hard time finding it. I will call them.

Did you ever get your alignment?

[Irving]

My lovely wife ran over a parking block and tore the factory flex pipe. From the factory it's a one piece unit that includes the CAT. I think a replacement is a couple hundred dollars, and paying a shop to weld in a new flex pipe is the same. I just cut it out myself and welded in a new one for something like $33. Having this welder sure has paid for itself over the last year or two.




When it warms back up I'm going to pull it back off and paint it since I just used regular carbon steel filler instead of stainless. I have a small roll of stainless wire, and a bottle of 100% argon, but when I've tried that combo in the past, it didn't weld well at all. Using regular steel on the stainless exhaust was okay, but I had a few instances where I would watch the weld puddle bubble up, then burst into a huge crater. I'm assuming I didn't do a great job of cleaning and was running into contaminates, but I don't really know.

For the life of me I can't run a bead on 18 gauge, or thinner, without burning through, so I end up chaining together a bunch of spot welds. That seems to work well enough, but I'm annoyed that I can't figure out how to run a bead on stuff that thin. Perhaps .30 is too thick? Anyway, half the time I get welds that lay down, and the other half I get welds that don't lay flat at all. I can't tell what I'm doing different in those cases. In the long run, it doesn't leak, so I guess I'm happy.