General vehicle thread

[SouthPaw]

Compare your readings with a good quality DMM (digital multi meter) to see how accurate your cig volt meter is.

So while driving, it holds a steady 13.4-13.8v. It holds the same at idle until I put the high beams on, heater full blast, all light bars and rolled down the windows. When I did all of that, the engine bogged slightly and volts dropped to 12.7 for about 3-5 seconds and then picked up back to normal.



As you can see, the Torque App records the lowest and highest readings. Lowest 12.7v and highest was just over 14v.

[GilpinGuy]

Thanks for the tips guys.

That really sucks Gilpin. Do you at
least have a garage to work on it in?

I don't have one but have some friends that have decent setups I can use.

[SideShow Bob]

Your voltage from the rectifier/regulator is good, check, clean & tighten the connection at the starter solenoid where the wire from the aleatory connects to the positive cable from your battery. Also check, clean & tighten all grounding cables and braided straps. Use an ohm meter to test resistance from end to end for internal resistance caused by corrosion, even if there is none visible.
Other than that, try a new quality battery, some parts store brands are not as high a quality as even as little as 10 years ago.
Even the battery in my wife’s, bought new, 2018 Honda didn’t last quite 2 years, and it is always garaged.

[Irving]

It's Trooper time again. It's back in the garage and might be there a while. On the list for immediate due date are
-1" body lift
-Clutch
-3:1 low gears in the transfer case.

Usually a body lift would be a couple hour job, but I've been putting all of this off for the last 9 months or so. I decided to quit being a baby and jump in. Things are only going okay so far. There are 12 mounts, and 6 of those are captured bolts. Of the 6, I've only broken one, which means I'll only have to drill through the body in one spot. Could be worse I guess. Also, to get to the rear most mounts, I had to pull the back bumper off. Not a huge deal, but the truck barely fits in my garage as it is, and I'm trying to keep the door closed since it's in the 20's every day. Makes for some tighter than usual work conditions.

Here's the main issue I was dealing with. This is one of the mounts in good condition. The nut loosened without breaking, I could push the bolt out the top with no problems, and the sleeve is in good shape and slipped right out.


Both front mounts (style No 1 below) broke on me, and instead of just lifting out like they should with the nut broke off, they are solidly in place. After hours of cutting, and banging around, I finally got one free. The sleeve has completely rusted to the bolt and welded itself together. A sledge hammer and a drift punch got it knocked loose.


Look at this thing, the sleeve is almost unrecognizable.




I'll update later when I've made progress worth looking at, but it'll be a while. Neighbor is trying to convince me to just build a rear bumper now since we had to remove the factory one anyway. That's way ahead of schedule for me so we'll see what actually happens.

[Irving]

We removed the back bumper, then realized we should be removing the gas tank. So I put the back bumper on again. Then we got half way through dropping the tank and realized we didn't need to do that either. Everyone helped, then the next night I was able to finish it up. The Trooper is getting too tall. I'm concerned that it'll be pretty tippy. I need to widen the stance. With the 1" body lift, I could probably completely drop my lift and even go up a tire size. Anyway, now I've got the bumper gaps, but those are going away at some point.

[HunterCO]

Why you should never use stop leak in a cooling system Or as I tried in vein to explain in another thread why you should never put gas in a diesel it causes bad shit to happen its all good with me not my vehicle I don't care stupid hurts not my problem. This Is a heater core I just changed out on a ford f150 2000. I cut the core open to prove my point. Originaly the radiator leaked I told them to replace it or I would but im a stupid master tech with over 30+ years so what do I know. They used stop leak then the radiator started leaking again and they changed it. Then winter came and they had no heat LMAO! Again im a dipshit. For me listening to backyard mechanics talk about vehicles is like listening to liberals talk about guns its hilarious.



This is what it takes to change it not a big deal for me only took 4 hours and it pays 8.5 hours.

[00tec]

Why you should never use stop leak in a cooling system Or as I tried in vein to explain in another thread why you should never put gas in a diesel it causes bad shit to happen its all good with me not my vehicle I don't care stupid hurts not my problem. This Is a heater core I just changed out on a ford f150 2000. I cut the core open to prove my point. Originaly the radiator leaked I told them to replace it or I would but im a stupid master tech with over 30+ years so what do I know. They used stop leak then the radiator started leaking again and they changed it. Then winter came and they had no heat LMAO! Again im a dipshit. For me listening to backyard mechanics talk about vehicles is like listening to liberals talk about guns its hilarious.



This is what it takes to change it not a big deal for me only took 4 hours and it pays 8.5 hours.

Hey!
I'm a backyard mechanic, and would never put that stop leak shit in any vehicle.

[FoxtArt]

Nasty looking. Ive always improvised with dough-style epoxy. To the point I always keep some in my vehicle/motorcycle b.o.b. had a good 12" split on the top of a radiator once...patched it with that, never did replace it, never leaked and lasted years. Also rippes out a drain plug on a motorcyle while 2up off road. Walked out, got oil, walked in and made a temporary plug out of the epoxy. Held until I could get it into a shop. The thought of trying to fix leaks by adding crap to the fluids is crazy though.

[HunterCO]

Nasty looking. Ive always improvised with dough-style epoxy. To the point I always keep some in my vehicle/motorcycle b.o.b. had a good 12" split on the top of a radiator once...patched it with that, never did replace it, never leaked and lasted years. Also rippes out a drain plug on a motorcyle while 2up off road. Walked out, got oil, walked in and made a temporary plug out of the epoxy. Held until I could get it into a shop. The thought of trying to fix leaks by adding crap to the fluids is crazy though.

get some rapid fix that shit will blow your mind tens times better than epoxy.

[GilpinGuy]

This is what it takes to change it not a big deal for me only took 4 hours and it pays 8.5 hours.

I think some folks are thinking WTF?