General vehicle thread

[MrPrena]

^ do rodent chew on the wires because of the coolant/Antifreeze?

[00tec]

^ do rodent chew on the wires because of the coolant/Antifreeze?

Nah, they just chew on them because bunnies are little pieces of shit.
Bunnies get in the engine compartment hunting warmth, then they just nibble on whatever. Apparently there's some soy component to the wire jacket, so they keep going.
I had some wires chewed on my truck, so I parked it where it was when it happened and waited. Walked out the front door, and the little fucker jumped out. Chased his ass down with the Glock 30. No problems since.

[brutal]

Cat will chew on low voltage wires here unless I rub my hands all over them. I think she thinks it's the wife's and does it to piss her off. Can't tell you how many dc charge cables I've had to patch.

Why she doesn't chew an a/c cord and spare us the misery I can't say.

[HunterCO]

Had a customer that a squirrel chewed the wires to an injector three damn times the same injector wires over a two week period I repaired three times. WTF was it about those wires I will never know but it did. I repaired them each time using heat shrink and it made no difference. I would have shot the bastard after the first time.

The worst bastards of all is pack rats they are bad in Montana never heard of or seen them in CO you want to talk about destructive little bastards they are the worst.

[TheSparkens]

We have the pack rats in Como where I park my trailer on my land in the summer. Someone told me to use this and I have never had a problem. I put it all around with a spray bottle. I had seen a few bobcats on my land also.

[Irving]

Oh man, almost had to come here for help. Got it out.

[Irving]

I'm just copying my build thread from the Isuzu board onto here. Sorry if this is boring on here, I'll try not to drag it out.

With the transfer case out and drained, make sure you clean up the outside to prevent stuff from falling in once you open it. I used various brass wire brushes and a pick here and there to dig rocks and dirt out of hard to reach places. I kept my vacuum near by to keep the dirt pile to a low roar as I went along and found stuff I had missed on prior passes. I'll post the Indy4x instructions in italics.



Starting at step 5 of the install instructions provided by Independent4x, remove the four 12mm bolts on the low shift unit and remove. I tried to separate the case first, and had difficulty removing this as the case was preventing the ball from coming out. After taping the case with a soft hammer it vibrated out. Shouldn't be a problem if you do this step before pulling the case apart.


Next remove the 9 bolts and the 2 stud bolts from the house. NOTE! Mark the location where the 2 stud bolts were removed for later assembly. I used grease paint. If you forget, they are at the bottom, on either side of the drain plug. It starts to separate a bit on it's own and you can get a small pry tool in to help it along.


Remove the high-low speed ball detent unit. (This is a 3/4" hex fitting (19mm) that is located on the outside of the housing inline with the shift rail shaft. Remove the hex fitting, spring and ball. DO NOT leave the ball in the hole, as it will fall into the rail shaft hole when the shaft is removed. The yellow arrow indicates the correct detent. I removed both and the bolts, springs, and balls are identical.




Use a magnet to remove the spring and the ball. Any magnet (or a pick) will work for the spring, but you'll need a small enough magnet to fit down the hole for the ball. Pretty sure this is just some cheap one I picked up from Harbor Freight or whatever auto parts store.


Pry the housing apart. NOTE! The 2 locating dowel pins and all the internal shafts (expect the rear wheel drive shaft) stay with the front half of the housing.

This is where I'm stuck now. The case doesn't want to come apart any further, and I'm reluctant to keep prying. I've looked at other instructions on other boards and don't see anything about removing the drive shaft flanges.


Do I need to do this? What could be holding this together? Does it just need more gentle coercing?

[Irving]

The electric motor on the back of the T-case, next to the rear driveshaft flange, needs to be removed before the case will separate. There are two bolts, and one stud bolt. In the picture I'm holding the long bolt where it goes to remind me for reassembly, but all the holes are different so it shouldn't be difficult.



I had the case pulled apart as far as I could, and I couldn't get this motor off. By pushing the case back together, it was able to unhook from the tooth and fell off with no trouble.


Here is a kind of overview of the area with me holding the motor. I'm sorry for the poor pictures. We all know this site has terrible photo hosting, so I keep having to crop the photos to fit the max width limit and it hides a lot of info.


Here is the case separated. This is the front, that retains both dowel pins and all of the gears but one.


And here is the back of the case with the one gear that connects to the rear drive shaft.

[Irving]

Next step per Indy4x instructions, Remove the snap ring on the input shaft. I'm indicating this snap ring in the photo.


Here is the snap ring and the bearing.


Using snap ring pliers and a small screw driver you can remove the snap ring and set aside.


Next, Remove the #6305 ball bearing from the input shaft.


I used a three-jaw gear puller to remove the bearing. Place the jaws on the back of the bearing, screw in the bolt until it holds itself in place, then use a ratchet to tighten the puller and pull the bearing off. The shaft turns as it pulls the bearing off, but it came off smoothly.


Bearing removed and still in puller.


Use a 3/16" wide x 3/32" thick tool to pry the hammered in portion of the nut at the key slot. Remove the nut. A small screw driver fits in this slot perfectly.


DO NOT DO THIS. I used a hammer to gently tap the screw driver into the slot as a wedge to open the dimple up. The screw driver was a bit too narrow for this, so I found a second screw driver and continued to tap on the top screw driver. DO NOT DO THIS. This was unnecessary and damages the threads.


Now it should be opened up enough to get the nut off.

[Irving]

The nut is 41mm or 1 5/8". In this photo I'm indicating the shift fork.


Simply slide it back, and it does two things. 1) it creates clearance to fit a wrench onto the nut (since I don't have a 41mm socket), and 2) it locks all the gears together for the next step.


Next I chalked the case up in my vise and clamped down on the front drive shaft flange.


It turns out that 2:1 gearing is still enough to turn the driveshaft flange in the vise when you put the wrench on the nut, so I slid a rod through a flange hole and up against a cooling fin. Try to get that shaft up into the base of the fin so you don't break it off.


I happened to have this 1 5/8" monster wrench hanging around. If you can have a second person to stand around and support the t-case, it'll alleviate a lot of fears about busting it loose out of the vise and dropping it onto the floor. I didn't have any help, but managed to get the nut loose.


I had a heck of a time focusing properly here, but you can make out that when I hammered that screw driver into the nut peen, it laid the threads over and broke some of them off. This also made it less than smooth when the nut came off, but fortunately the rest of the intact threads kept everything clean.


All the remnants of those damaged threads.