General vehicle thread

[Irving]

Now I'm stuck again. The next instruction from Indy4x is Release the snap ring that is under the gear on the idler shaft. This is the snap ring that holds the idler shaft to the housing. (This snap ring will remain loose around the idler shaft but will allow the idler shaft to move outward).

I've done that here. I first removed the outer snap ring (not sure if I needed to or not).


The snap ring under the gear they are talking about is this one in the photo. Ignore the gear puller in the upper part of the photo, as the way it is installed is just pulling on itself.


I used the Jerry method of running a wire through the holes of the snap ring to hold it open. The solid wire pictured broke twice, so I switch to a braided wire with a sheath, which also broke. However, in trying to get the snap ring to stay closed, I somehow got it out of position like I was supposed to.


Now I'm to the point where the idler gear has enough play that I was able to maneuver one of the shift rails out of place, but everything is interfering with each other and I can't figure out what piece needs to be removed first, nor how to remove anything.

Here you can see the shift rail out of place.


The flat, round piece fits in the slot immediately to the right, and the shaft fits into the hole toward the top of the photo. After you remove (partially) the interior snap ring, it allows the idler gear to move forward enough for this piece to come out.


This shows the new idler gear, and shows that it's a large gear toward the bottom, and a smaller gear at the top, all one piece. That larger gear is prevented from being removed by each of the two gears on either side, and each of the shift forks attached to the rails.


I'm indicating what I'm calling a shift fork, and you can see one on either side of the idler gear, preventing the idler from coming out.


Here is everything again just as an overview. You can see that the large gears on either side of the idler gear hold the idler in place. It's clear that I need to remove the shift forks and rails, but it's not clear how to go about this. There are several pins in the wrist of the shift rails, but I tried moving a few of them with a drift punch and they didn't seem to want to move, so I'm not sure if they are directional or not. I hope not, because I don't know how I'm going to access them from the other side with any amount of force.


Finally, here are the rest of the Indy4x directions, which I'm sure will make perfect sense once I'm done, but at this stage, they aren't that helpful. There is a diagram included with the Indy4x instructions, but none of the parts they mention are labeled in the diagram.
Using a long eared pulley puller, pull off the low speed clutch drive assembly. (The drive assembly includes the low speed gear, shift ring, spined shaft drive part, shift yoke and shift rail). NOTE! The idler shaft may have to be pulled up slightly to clear the yoke's removal. If the roller bearing and the inner assembly, make sure that you do not lose the inner bearing sleeve's drive ball that is located in the input shaft. Remove the idler shaft. Pull up by hand. Remove the snap ring on the idler shaft.

[00tec]

Here's what happens when you flat tow your Jeep behind a RV, but accidentally leave it in 1st gear.

And 4x4 Low

https://www.tiktok.com/foryou?is_fro...90790384143622

[Irving]

Nice

[00tec]

That gear ratio works out to 73.14:1

Wonder what RPM it was doing when it grenaded

Edit: Theoretical RPM at 55mph is just under 41k rpm

[Irving]

That gear ratio works out to 73.14:1

Wonder what RPM it was doing when it grenaded

Edit: Theoretical RPM at 55mph is just under 41k rpm

The Rubicons have a factory 4:1 low range right?

[Irving]

**I'm just copy/pasting my build thread from the Isuzu board, but if this boring, let me know. I don't have to post every project I undertake on here as well.

All three shafts and gear sets need to come out together. In order for that to happen, you need to remove the front driveshaft flange. This is a 36mm socket and you can use the same method of sliding a rod through one of the driveshaft bolt holes, up against the case, between cooling fins, to stop everything from turning to loosen the nut. There is no snap ring here, the ones in the photo are from other areas. Once the nut is all the way off, use a soft dowel (wood, plastic, etc) to tap the shaft loose.


The idler shaft needs to be tapped out as well, but there is no access from the back like the other two shafts. I threw my 3-jaw gear puller back on as pictured, held a steel rod between two of the pullers (with my thumb off to the side) and tapped the whole assembly out with a hammer. Of course make sure you've loosened the internal snap ring under the large gear first.


Here is everything out of the case.


I had already partially pried the small bearing off of the idler gear, but the best way is to use a bearing puller and chalk it up into your press as pictured.



Press each bearing off the same way. Make sure you have a helper catch the idler gear as it drops. Or if you like excitement like I do, squat down to catch the idler with your off hand as you pump the press with your dominant hand, all while placing your face right where all the action is taking place. Wear safety glasses.


Now I have some questions. Here is how the factory idler gear is set-up.


There is a thin gear, a shim, and a collar on the bottom/back of the idler, as well as the internal snap ring. Do all of these components transfer over to the new idler gear?


Obviously the thin gear will do nothing with the new, larger idler gear, but it seems like it acts as another shim and with everything in place, it is the correct height to support the bearing. The Indy4x instructions only say to put the bearings onto the new idler gear, but don't mention any of the shims or the collar. What's the consensus?

[00tec]

The Rubicons have a factory 4:1 low range right?

Correct

[Erni]

Irv
Based on the original setup my guess is that thin gear was some sort of synchro. Clearly it won?t do that anymore, but if it provides the right spacing throw it back on.

[Irving]

That plate gear has one less tooth and is used to make the engagement more quiet. The Isuzu board says not to bother with it. I have to wonder if that is part of the reason that trucks with low gears (my neighbor) sound like an R/C car when in low. I'm getting pretty close, excited to wrap it up. My new flywheel shows up Saturday, so hopefully it'll all be down hill by then.

[Irving]

Next pull the remaining rail out. Like Lorenzo said, the new rail has a relief cut to accommodate the larger idler gear.


You can see that even with the relief, the clearance is close.


Next you have to pull the gears from the input shaft. This has been on the left in all of my pictures so far, and looks like this.


Don't do this!


Because this will happen, if you're lucky it will only be this bad.


Instead, put your clam shell puller under both gears, and make sure not to smash the snap ring hanging loose down there as well. This picture was taken after I pressed the gears off in the with the hydraulic press. The gear in my hand is the grey gear that Lorenzo was talking about being brittle.



The gear I'm holding is the other gear you are replacing. It lifts right off that bearing, and the new one slips right on. Be careful of those needle bearings.


Use the press to fit everything back on, but watch as it seats and don't use too much press, or you shatter that grey gear like this, and swear so loud that your neighbors ask if you are okay (but didn't actually check to make sure that you were).


Now I have to go pull another T-case for sure and join the club of others that have messed this up. To be continued...