That's a good resource, thanks. I've book marked it. I think I have a similar bookmark for anodized metal hardware like D-rings and stuff.
Those are affordable for sure. Probably even less than I have into mine and I got the materials for cheap.
That's a good resource, thanks. I've book marked it. I think I have a similar bookmark for anodized metal hardware like D-rings and stuff.
Those are affordable for sure. Probably even less than I have into mine and I got the materials for cheap.
Putting on ball joints- upper and lower and outer tie rods on a 2009 Chevy suburban. Any one have suggestions on durable, quality suspension /steering parts that wont break the bank for my big grocery getter?
Bilstein 5100’s?
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Sawin - Feedback thread.
Rockauto is fine but watch out. My upper CA arms were miss marked and were the standard part number with offset bushings. Pure bs and no support from MOOG. And my car was torn apart when I noticed. Mine is a 05 so somewhat similar to the 09s except I have torsion bars. My observation was that the rubber bushings may look like garbage on the outside but inside they are just fine. So if I had to do it all over. I would replace the Ball joints and steering joints and leave the rest. The UCA is where the alignment is done. Mine were rusted shut on the aft bolt. Check yours before starting the job and order a set of those bolt and a cut off grinder if yours are too. I found the joint press to be the crappiest tool ever but mine was a rental and had issues. Honestly probably faster to remove the arms and get them on a hydraulic press. PM me if you have questions.
Order of quality for ball joints:
XRF (best, lifetime warranty)
SPICER (Good, OEM on a lot of vehicles, solid reputation)
MOOG (used to be good, but has fallen in quality on ball joints, still better than generic)
Chinese shit and generic parts store (bad)
For Tie rods:
Moog is preferable to generic parts store brands
If you are having a lot of steering shake at higher speeds (based on what you are replacing) you may want to replace your pitman arm as well. They can be a bitch to pull, less so if you just cut off wheel to grind a groove in it and an air chisel to snap it off. Superlift is a good source (reasonable) for a pitman if you have a partially lifted truck. Some replace all their steering components except that, and find that the pitman link itself is loose which is contributing. Normal correction for death wobble is to replace every-freaking thing if you are experiencing that, often everything is contributing. If all else fails once replacing what you want to, add a steering stabilizer. (just a gas shock)
Also amazon is a good source for a lot of those parts by the way. If you are buying Moog, start at moog's website to get part #'s and then take those to amazon.
Also I'll #2 on Bilstein 5100's. Much better bang for the buck than ones like fox and much better than ranchos or whatever was stock. (I'm not chevy). If you still have some steering wobble or your shocks are shot, do the shocks too. You can just unbolt them and compress them by hand, it's not a difficult service. If they don't expand back then they are a few years past expiration![]()
But you can't rebuild or recharge the 5100s. Only downside
With respect to RockAuto, they don't ship to everywhere in Colorado. You're probably alright in Woodland park, but if they don't ship to you, or you don't want to deal with their terrible customer service, you can use the same method of grabbing part numbers from RockAuto, then just going over to Amazon. And then for Amazon, I've purchased a knock off flywheel from Amazon before, had to return it, and buy locally at Napa. Sometimes the reason the same part is half the price online is because it's a knock off.
Last edited by Irving; 06-11-2021 at 10:01.