Concrete footing and fencing

[BigBear]

Ah. Now I understand. Removing the bushes and trees were in your neighbors yard.


Never mind

Huh? I did clean out/mitigate about 4 feet behind the old fence line. I did take down a few trees and pull up a ton of bushes. It needed to be done. Yes it is someone else's property, but I got permission as stated in the OP. I do still need to do some cleanup back there... but this post was about a fence. Did I piss you off somehow?

[jslo]

Huh? I did clean out/mitigate about 4 feet behind the old fence line. I did take down a few trees and pull up a ton of bushes. It needed to be done. Yes it is someone else's property, but I got permission as stated in the OP. I do still need to do some cleanup back there... but this post was about a fence. Did I piss you off somehow?

Not at all. It's just me not following.
Originally I read it as you got permission from property owner, so thought you were renting. I then read you saying you were the property owner and assumed the permission was for bush and tree removal from a neighbor's property.
The "never mind" was meant for my previous post and an attempt at some Emily Litella humor, which doesn't really work in written form.
Sorry for the confusion, all's good

[newracer]

Could you explain the "regrade"? I know a huge tractor grades roads, etc... but how would I do that in a small yard. No vehicle could fit back there and there's no road to get to it.

Instead of the abrupt drop where the fence line is I'd knock down that edge along with some soil above it and push it to the downhill side creating a gentler slope. From about halfway to the trees continuing 3-5 feet past the fence line. All could be done with a shovel and rake pretty easily.

[encorehunter]

Are you able to get a cement truck back there, or are you mixing by hand?
There are a few options I see. Level the fence line with a shovel about 10" wide, set post around 30-36" deep and place railroad ties between them. Drill the railroad ties and pound in rebar 24-36" deep every few feet.
Level fence line, use dry stack interlocking retaining wall block and set the fence back 8" onto your property.
Level fence line, dig your post holes, then set concrete forms. Use maybe a 2x10 on the down hill side and a 2x4 on the uphill side. With the posts 30-36" deep every 6-8', it should not move.
I have been using 2 7/8 drill stem for my fences using the field fencing. So far, 3 pigs have not been able to get through it.

[BigBear]

Not at all. It's just me not following.
Originally I read it as you got permission from property owner, so thought you were renting. I then read you saying you were the property owner and assumed the permission was for bush and tree removal from a neighbor's property.
The "never mind" was meant for my previous post and an attempt at some Emily Litella humor, which doesn't really work in written form.
Sorry for the confusion, all's good

Ah, ok. My apologies for not being comprehensive in my storytelling. Thanks! For clarification, I am the homeowner and need to replace my fence. Tangent: I had to mitigate an area behind said fence due to overgrowth, etc, but I did get permission from THAT property owner beforehand... Now, back to the fence, lol.

Instead of the abrupt drop where the fence line is I'd knock down that edge along with some soil above it and push it to the downhill side creating a gentler slope. From about halfway to the trees continuing 3-5 feet past the fence line. All could be done with a shovel and rake pretty easily.

Ah, gotcha. I should be able to do that. Thanks Sir.

Are you able to get a cement truck back there, or are you mixing by hand?
There are a few options I see. Level the fence line with a shovel about 10" wide, set post around 30-36" deep and place railroad ties between them. Drill the railroad ties and pound in rebar 24-36" deep every few feet.
Level fence line, use dry stack interlocking retaining wall block and set the fence back 8" onto your property.
Level fence line, dig your post holes, then set concrete forms. Use maybe a 2x10 on the down hill side and a 2x4 on the uphill side. With the posts 30-36" deep every 6-8', it should not move.
I have been using 2 7/8 drill stem for my fences using the field fencing. So far, 3 pigs have not been able to get through it.

No, not enough space to get any vehincle get back there. It would all be hand mixing with a wheelbarrow. Thanks for the options/suggestions! I need to spend some time browsing the Lowe's website and do some pricing. Thanks!

[jslo]

Just in case, I have seen some small walk behind loaders that fit through gates. Toro Dingo is one of them

[ChickNorris]

Dingos are useful in tight spaces but can be bit of a hassle with the center of mass & raising the trough on slopes, for folks not used to operating it. I've watched more than one person try to ride the roll over.

I suggest you don't put yourself or anyone else downhill of it.

[jslo]

Definitely need to get use to them. In the beginning it's like wrestling a bull.

[BigBear]

Dingos are useful in tight spaces but can be bit of a hassle with the center of mass & raising the trough on slopes, for folks not used to operating it. I've watched more than one person try to ride the roll over.

I suggest you don't put yourself or anyone else downhill of it.

It is a pretty steep area... I think I'd be fine with a wheelbarrow and some muscle though.

Definitely need to get use to them. In the beginning it's like wrestling a bull.

I've done some wrangling before... now I'm more interested, lol.