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  1. #31
    Grand Master Know It All SouthPaw's Avatar
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    If $5000 is your budget, I?d be looking for the following 4x4?s:

    Trucks:
    2000-2006 Tundra
    1995.5-2004 Tacoma
    Anything with less than 200k would be a good buy if it?s in decent shape. These trucks run well over 300k with no issues so don?t let ?higher? miles scare you. My first gen tundra has 177k on the clock and it runs/drives like new.

    1999-2006 Silverado/Sierra 1500 V8 (4.8 or 5.3).
    For $5000, this should put you in the 150k+/- mileage range. These trucks are super easy to work on and the LS series engines are bullet proof. Parts are plentiful and cheap.

    SUV?s:
    1999-2006 Tahoe/Yukon/Suburban 5.3L
    1997-2003 Toyota 4Runner
    1997-2000ish Mercury/Ford Mountaineer/Explorer 5.0L with selectable transfer case if possible. If it?s AWD, it?s pretty easy to convert to selectable.

    FWIW, I’ve been finding a lot more deals on Facebook vs craigslist. I’d keep an eye on FB if you are in the market.
    Last edited by SouthPaw; 12-21-2019 at 00:18.
    "But when it's time to fight, you fight like you are the third monkey on the ramp to Noah's Ark; and brother, it's startin' to rain."

  2. #32
    If I had a son he would look like....Ben SideShow Bob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SouthPaw View Post
    If $5000 is your budget, I?d be looking for the following 4x4?s:

    Trucks:
    2000-2006 Tundra
    1995.5-2004 Tacoma
    Anything with less than 200k would be a good buy if it?s in decent shape. These trucks run well over 300k with no issues so don?t let ?higher? miles scare you. My first gen tundra has 177k on the clock and it runs/drives like new.

    1999-2006 Silverado/Sierra 1500 V8 (4.8 or 5.3).
    For $5000, this should put you in the 150k+/- mileage range. These trucks are super easy to work on and the LS series engines are bullet proof. Parts are plentiful and cheap.

    SUV?s:
    1999-2006 Tahoe/Yukon/Suburban 5.3L
    1997-2003 Toyota 4Runner
    1997-2000ish Mercury/Ford Mountaineer/Explorer 5.0L with selectable transfer case if possible. If it?s AWD, it?s pretty easy to convert to selectable.

    FWIW, I’ve been finding a lot more deals on Facebook vs craigslist. I’d keep an eye on FB if you are in the market.
    In the 1999 to 2006 Chevy/GMC 1500s you are going to get a high rate of electrical/electronic gremlins especially in the airbag sensors & wiring and in the electric sensors & wiring for the 4x4 systems.
    I have personal experience with all of these issues with a 2006 GMC, that I have had since new, with just over 75K on it. I have a permanent air bag issue, from codes saying a bad front sensor to code saying that my airbags deployed. The dealer never could solve the problem and when the warranty was up, wanted $$$$ to keep trying to find the problem. So I now have a airbag warning light on all the time.
    I have also had the transfer case selector switch go bad twice and the transfer case position sensor and selector motor go bad, all after the warranty was up. I have replaced these myself,
    And I have had a blower motor issue to the tune of $400+ that was not covered by a recall because the VIN wasn’t in the recall range, even though it was displaying the exact same symptoms.
    Last edited by SideShow Bob; 12-21-2019 at 01:02.
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  3. #33
    Grand Master Know It All SouthPaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SideShow Bob View Post
    In the 1999 to 2006 Chevy/GMC 1500s you are going to get a high rate of electrical/electronic gremlins especially in the airbag sensors & wiring and in the electric sensors & wiring for the 4x4 systems.
    I have personal experience with all of these issues with a 2006 GMC, that I have had since new, with just over 75K on it. I have a permanent air bag issue, from codes saying a bad front sensor to code saying that my airbags deployed. The dealer never could solve the problem and when the warranty was up, wanted $$$$ to keep trying to find the problem. So I now have a airbag warning light on all the time.
    I have also had the transfer case selector switch go bad twice and the transfer case position sensor and selector motor go bad, all after the warranty was up. I have replaced these myself,
    And I have had a blower motor issue to the tune of $400+ that was not covered by a recall because the VIN wasn’t in the recall range, even though it was displaying the exact same symptoms.
    Sounds like you got a bad apple in the flavor of a lemon. In the three that I have owned, non of the issues you speak of. Maybe I just got lucky.
    "But when it's time to fight, you fight like you are the third monkey on the ramp to Noah's Ark; and brother, it's startin' to rain."

  4. #34
    Industry Partner BPTactical's Avatar
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    The problem Bob is "GM".

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  5. #35
    Machine Gunner Martinjmpr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SouthPaw View Post
    Sounds like you got a bad apple in the flavor of a lemon. In the three that I have owned, non of the issues you speak of. Maybe I just got lucky.
    Except for the weak 4L60 transmission my Suburban was solid. Most likely I killed the transmission by towing a 3500# trailer through the mountains multiple times. Other than that, no issues and my Suburban had every bell and whistle you could get except a sunroof and a DVD player (neither of which I wanted.) I think the GMT-800 trucks (1999 - 2007 pickups and 2000 - 2006 Tahoe/Suburban/Yukon were some of the best made trucks out there. If you can get a 2500 you avoid the problematic 4L60 in favor of the much more robust 4L80.

    Parts are easy to get and reasonably inexpensive and they are surprisingly easy to work on.

    I would avoid the early GMT-900 trucks as they had issues with the multi-displacement engine feature.

    Sold my '04 Suburban for $5500 last month with 189k and a still-under-warranty transmission.
    Last edited by Martinjmpr; 12-21-2019 at 10:24.
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  6. #36
    Possesses Antidote for "Cool" Gman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SideShow Bob View Post
    In the 1999 to 2006 Chevy/GMC 1500s you are going to get a high rate of electrical/electronic gremlins especially in the airbag sensors & wiring and in the electric sensors & wiring for the 4x4 systems.
    I have personal experience with all of these issues with a 2006 GMC, that I have had since new, with just over 75K on it. I have a permanent air bag issue, from codes saying a bad front sensor to code saying that my airbags deployed. The dealer never could solve the problem and when the warranty was up, wanted $$$$ to keep trying to find the problem. So I now have a airbag warning light on all the time.
    I have also had the transfer case selector switch go bad twice and the transfer case position sensor and selector motor go bad, all after the warranty was up. I have replaced these myself,
    And I have had a blower motor issue to the tune of $400+ that was not covered by a recall because the VIN wasn?t in the recall range, even though it was displaying the exact same symptoms.
    Truth. I had to get rid of my 2003 Tahoe due to these electrical gremlins. Was throwing intermittent ABS warnings that it wasn't functioning. Airbag warnings. Electrical accessories would quit working. A bunch of GMs of that era also had problems with the instrument clusters. It was a known issue and GM would replace the cluster panel at up to 7 years 70K miles. I had to have mine replaced.

    The 5.3l engine is a bit low on power and doesn't get good mileage, but it's damn near bulletproof. I prefer my Hemi.
    Last edited by Gman; 12-21-2019 at 11:26.
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  7. #37
    Grand Master Know It All SouthPaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman View Post
    Truth. I had to get rid of my 2003 Tahoe due to these electrical gremlins. Was throwing intermittent ABS warnings that it wasn't functioning. Airbag warnings. Electrical accessories would quit working. A bunch of GMs of that era also had problems with the instrument clusters. It was a known issue and GM would replace the cluster panel at up to 7 years 70K miles. I had to have mine replaced.

    The 5.3l engine is a bit low on power and doesn't get good mileage, but it's damn near bulletproof. I prefer my Hemi.
    Yes, the cluster was an issue on the GMT800 platform but you can have your OE one rebuilt, bulbs switched to LED and stepper motors replaced for $80-$100. I had all my of my trucks done because I was never a big fan of the mint green color.


    The 5.3L can be a bit sluggish, even more so if you have a fan clutch. If you get a truck after 2003, they switched to electric fans which made a big difference. My Tahoe had fan clutch and the 1500 had electric fans. It was night and day difference when driving them.

    The 4L60 was not built to handle much, especially towing. All three of mine lasted 150k+ and one had 220k when I sold it, all still shifting great. I rarely towed though. I think you nailed when you said towing up and down the mountains. The 4L80 on the other hand is a horse. It?s pretty much a direct replacement other than a few wires.
    "But when it's time to fight, you fight like you are the third monkey on the ramp to Noah's Ark; and brother, it's startin' to rain."

  8. #38
    If I had a son he would look like....Ben SideShow Bob's Avatar
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    The warning light in the upper left of your instrument cluster is this the same one that is constantly on in my 2006 GMC Sierra 1500.
    The 6.0L Vortec Max doesn’t lack for power, but it hurts the wallet at the gas pumps. And it does have the mechanical fan / clutch not an electric fan(s).
    Last edited by SideShow Bob; 12-21-2019 at 18:01.
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  9. #39
    Loving The Rainbow waffles's Avatar
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    I bought a 2000 tundra pretty cheap a couple months ago, a V8 4x4 with 13x,000 on it. Could not be happier and they're surprisingly much more reasonable than tacos of the same vintage.

  10. #40
    Big Panda CHA-LEE's Avatar
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    I am trying to understand how $1300 wouldn’t cover EVERYTHING associated with the clutch (Clutch, Pressure Plate, flywheel, slave cylinder, fluids, etc) in a manual transmission rebuild including labor. If the clutch is toast why on earth would you only replace one or two of those things when you have it all apart? Dropping the tranny and replace all of that stuff yourself isn’t rocket science either. If it was me I would have just replaced it all myself during an afternoon in my driveway.

    I did less than 2 minutes of Google searching and found complete Clutch/Flywheel/Hydraulics kits for $350-$400. Another two minutes of searching found many text and video instructions on how to do the swap.

    Looks like less than $500 in parts and some elbow grease and you are back in business.
    Last edited by CHA-LEE; 12-21-2019 at 22:26.

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