Reliability/Failure Modes of a BYO?

[esaabye]

I tried to save some money with a "Trigger Job" rather than paying for the improved trigger to start with. I ended up purchasing both as well as dealing with unpredictable trigger as I learned the hard way.

Dropped in a Rock River NM and never looked back.

[BPTactical]

I tried to save some money with a "Trigger Job" rather than paying for the improved trigger to start with. I ended up purchasing both as well as dealing with unpredictable trigger as I learned the hard way.

Dropped in a Rock River NM and never looked back.

+1
About all you want to do to a stock trigger is stone polish the engagement surfaces. They are Casehardened just a few thousandths deep and you cut too deep and you are into softer material. If that happens you now have some strange shaped fishing weights.


Buy the best you can- that way you never question it and don't have to spend your money twice.

[The Norseman]

Thanks all! Though I'm not the sharpest tack in the box, I felt that I rose to the occasion in terms of a thoughtful build process.

I guess the lowest end of parts I used was a DPMS LPK and I've already replaced the trigger group with a RRA two stage.

I weld custom bicycle frames in Titanium and steel, so I "get" attention to detail and craftsmanship.

The torture test would obviously be a 1000+ round carbine course. $$$$ Maybe soon....

Norseman

[gcrookston]

Another way some people fail is with optics. They'll spend $1000+ on their weapon, then mount a $35.00 reddot and wonder why they are printing 1' instead of 1" groups.

I would much rather depend on a $350.00 rifle with a $1,000 worth of glass on it than a $1000 rifle with $350.00 worth of glass.

[Troublco]

Another thing to look at in this equation is TOOLS. Even if you have all the best parts, you have to have the proper tools to be able to put one together. The blocks to be able to hold the receiver, the tool to keep from launching the takedown pin retainer spring across the room, barrel nut wrench(s), special punch for installing the roll pin that retains the bolt catch, the hammer block to be able to dry fire the lower, there's a lot of special tools. You don't have to have all of them, but some are absolutely essential for a proper AR build. I take great pleasure in assembling a new AR not just because I'm not paying someone else to do it for me, but because I enjoy it. The right parts, right tools, and right know-how are all essential.

+1 on the trigger work. I used RRA 2 stage match triggers until I discovered JP triggers; now it depends on what I'm going to do with the gun. A well-adjusted JP trigger on a varmint gun is a beautiful thing!

[nathan0259]

I built my own lower with some cheap punches a rubber hammer and a leatherman.... the hammer pin snaped clean in half after about 500 rounds I uesd a cmmg kit so I called them and they sent me a knew one for free and it has held strog so far (about 600ish rounds). I have no idea why it broke but I now always have a full lower parts kit in my range bag.

[Colorado Osprey]

Years ago.. like in the 80's I had factory built AR's. I have since sold them all. I only have home builds. Most are factory assembled uppers. I have never had any type of weapon malfunction due to the weapon.

Now you might now say I don't shoot enough. I was going through my spent brass yesterday because I need to load again because I only have 5k rounds loaded. I started counting brass and stopped at 5k empty brass.(just counting 5.56/.223) This has only been since June. BTW all my ammo is reloads also. I can't remember the last time I shoot factory ammo. Thank goodness for progressive presses.

I reload a lot. I have also shot and reloaded 6k of 12ga this summer and 3k of 9mm. All had zero failures.

I believe if you are diligent you can build a rifle as reliable or more reliable than a factory build, same goes for reloading vs factory ammo.