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  1. #1
    My Fancy Title gnihcraes's Avatar
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    Default Firearms Cleaning and Lubricating

    I searched and didn't find much information on this forum.

    I'm curious about some information I've seen about "Greasing" guns instead of using light oils.

    I've seen where they suggest a Grease and lots of it on all parts of glocks, sigs, 1911's etc. Same thing for the AR, some even going as far as using standard automotive brake and bearing grease on the bolt, BCG etc.

    I typically clean my guns with Hopps, CLP, Gun Scrubber, Foaming bore cleaning etc, and lube with either Hopps, CLP or Rem Oil. Obviously whatever I have available at the time of cleaning and lubing. I'm running my guns fairly dry it would appear, rather than using "Brake Grease".

    I've never had any issues. Not sure I would change my methods.

    I figure brake grease would be similar to shooting my old SKS that had cosmoline still in various places and splattering anything and everything each time it was fired. No joy.

    I know opinions will vary greatly on this, but value the opinions of many on this site and would like some feedback on this "Grease" issue.

  2. #2
    Death Eater Troublco's Avatar
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    Some guns were built to use grease. M1's and M14's come to mind. Others, I couldn't tell you. I think you get some folks out there who think that if a little lube is good, a bunch must be better.
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  3. #3
    Really is Llama Not_A_Llama's Avatar
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    I used to be pretty much a 100% oil user (CLP, Militec, SLIP2000, blahblah, and culminating in a mix of synthetic ATF and Marvel Mystery oil) , but I've switched recently to a pretty uninteresting Walmart high temp grease.

    It seems when I look at linear bearing surfaces in other engineering applications, they're usually using grease, unless oil is necessary for some sort of cooling purpose.

    I also look at practicalities. A firearm's most stressed operation mode is under firing, which produces a lot of heat. Oil too frequently runs, evaporates entirely away, or turns sticky, while a hightemp grease will tend to hang around. Also, I don't really clean/lube my firearms much - in my experience, left unattended, CLP has a bad habit of leaving a sticky protective layer around that doesn't lubricate too well.

    Notably, on my Glock rails and my AR bolt carrier bearing surfaces, I find the grease smooths out the operation some, which is a fringe benefit. I suppose in extremely cold weather, this could become a problem, slowing down an action enough to cause stoppages, but I've been in the coldest weather I could find in Colorado, and I didn't have problems.

    I notice, too, that grease on the piston rings of an AR bolt tends to stick around a while, where oil seems to outright burn.

    Newish Glocks tend to develop the "barrel smiles" slower than with oil, in my experience.

    Knowing the fickle winds of the lubrication world, I might be back to oil again soon, but for now, I'm very satisfied with grease as my lube of choice.

    ETA: James Yeager has a vid that coincides pretty well with how I lube my AR: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXIsKEHo-4g
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  4. #4
    Paper Hunter nathan0259's Avatar
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    I use Shooters Choice on the slide rails of my hand guns (glock 17, berreta 92, taurus 24/7) an it works great.... I'm pretty sure I pay 8 bucks for wheel bearing grease in a syringe. I use CLP or Rem Oil on my AR. My AR is a piston system so the oil stays cool I can't speak to the DI AR's I have never owned one.
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  5. #5
    Señor Bag o' Crap Scanker19's Avatar
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    I'm a huge supporter of the "if it slides grease it, if it pivots on a pin oil it" movement.

    I use some old Garand grease on just about everything I own. I do have to "water it down" with some MilTec or WD-40 for my lighter recoil (.30 carbine) weapons but haven't had a problem yet with my garlands or AR.

    But if it too cold you'll have to borrow some oil from Jerry.
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  6. #6
    Industry Partner BPTactical's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jordanls19 View Post
    I'm a huge supporter of the "if it slides grease it, if it pivots on a pin oil it" movement.

    I use some old Garand grease on just about everything I own. I do have to "water it down" with some MilTec or WD-40 for my lighter recoil (.30 carbine) weapons but haven't had a problem yet with my garlands or AR. .

    ^This.
    Look at the way the load/pressure is applied to the part in question. If it is a sliding fit then whatever lubricant is subjected to shear loading. Grease resists being displaced by shear loading/pressure much better than oil. All the lube in the world will do no good if it doesn't stay where intended.
    Hence if it slides grease it-if it turns oil it.
    I am a firm believer in the benefits of synthetic lubricants. They keep their viscosity consistent regardless of temperature.
    I am a firm believer in Tetra products or Magnalube. The one big thing I have noticed with either is stainless steel has not galled when using them. A nice benefit to the Tetra oil- I have found that if I wet patch the bore, gas piston or bolt carrier/bolt and leave it slightly wet the clean up next time goes much quicker and the bore does not seem to copper foul as much.
    Mobil One also performs well but I would not use the ATF, it has a high detergent content and is more like a hydraulic fluid instead of a lubricant. Works great as a cleaner (Eds Red solution) though.
    Glock recommends a copper based anti-seize compound-it stays put and is excellent in shear loads. A little dab will do.
    Less is more when it comes to lube. You just want enough to see it in place but no blobs or drips.
    As far as thinning out grease I would use a light oil such as 3in1 or a light motor oil, stay with a petroleum product for it as that way it will be compatible with the older Mil grease.
    NEVER use WD-40 as a lubricant! It is essentially a silicone based oil suspended in a carrier (kerosene/mineral spirits) when the carrier evaporates you will end up with sludge. It works ok to displace moisture so keep some handy when you go on a duck hunt and dunk your shotgun, just make sure you clean and lube properly when you get home.
    CLP is about like a 3 in one shop machine. It will do a little bit of each, Clean, Lubricate, Protect but nowhere as effective as a dedicated bore solvent or lubricant. About the only thing I use it for is "Armor All" for firearms. It works well to keep a finish fresh and dark, especially after I did some work that required de-greasing etc.

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  7. #7
    Señor Bag o' Crap Scanker19's Avatar
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    Good to keep in mind about WD.

    I'd really like to get some of the MilTec grease. Anyone have any experience on this stuff?
    Errrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jordanls19 View Post
    I'm a huge supporter of the "if it slides grease it, if it pivots on a pin oil it" movement.

    +1

    I used to just oil everything until Bert re-educated me.
    Who says old dogs don't learn new tricks.

  9. #9
    Grand Master Know It All trlcavscout's Avatar
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    Grease on handguns, even Glocks, but you end up with a little on your hand after shooting. I wouldnt grease an AR due to already being dirty the grease will trap it in.

    Oil on AR's although I agree with the growing movement of ATF for the detergent on dirty gas guns. I will switch to ATF soon. ATF is a very good high pressure, high temp, cleaning solution. Some guys use the ATF from their car when they service it, I wouldnt do to all the clutch material and metal shavings.

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