Anyone here a shade-tree/Hobbyist Mechanic?

[trlcavscout]

I dont have a place and I am kinda far or I would help out. It is pretty easy getting the fluids out of the diffs, the front can be a challenge to get fluid back in depending on what you have to use. The transmission service should be easy, some you had to lift the trans up a little off the cross member to get the pan off though. I wouldnt have the trans flushed if you have a lot of miles on it and havent kept it serviced though. I was a GM automatic transmission tech for 9 years so I have done a few.

The 4L60-E is my favorite money making transmission

[sniper7]

I dont have a place and I am kinda far or I would help out. It is pretty easy getting the fluids out of the diffs, the front can be a challenge to get fluid back in depending on what you have to use. The transmission service should be easy, some you had to lift the trans up a little off the cross member to get the pan off though. I wouldnt have the trans flushed if you have a lot of miles on it and havent kept it serviced though. I was a GM automatic transmission tech for 9 years so I have done a few.

The 4L60-E is my favorite money making transmission

why wouldn't you do the tranny fluid?

only reason I ask, is I have a 1997 silverado I bought recently that I am thinking should have the fluids changed all the way around. it is at 130K and I have no idea about previous maintenance.

[Byte Stryke]

Blazer only has 118K on it as FYI
I Picked it up with 115K

[trlcavscout]

why wouldn't you do the tranny fluid?

only reason I ask, is I have a 1997 silverado I bought recently that I am thinking should have the fluids changed all the way around. it is at 130K and I have no idea about previous maintenance.

I always reccomend fluid filter changes, not flushing for several reasons. Obviously the filter needs changed so thats a plus. If a transmission hasnt been properly maintained and you flush it at high mileage it usually ends up slipping soon after if it even makes it out of the shop from the flush. Lip seals get jacked, and a lot of times the only thing keeping clutch packs together is the friction material thats in the fluid. I have seen many transmissions and torque convertors fail during or right after a flush, most are higher mileage, less maintenance type vehicles. But I have flushed some with like 30k and then they wouldnt back out of my stall. True fluid filter change will only get 4-6 qts compared to 12-16 on a flush.

BUT for me and most transmission guys the number one reason for fluid/filter change over flushing is I want to see whats in the pan, not flush it back into the transmission. How much stuff and what kind of stuff is in the filter and on the magnet will determine if I take any long trips with it or not

[sniper7]

I always reccomend fluid filter changes, not flushing for several reasons. Obviously the filter needs changed so thats a plus. If a transmission hasnt been properly maintained and you flush it at high mileage it usually ends up slipping soon after if it even makes it out of the shop from the flush. Lip seals get jacked, and a lot of times the only thing keeping clutch packs together is the friction material thats in the fluid. I have seen many transmissions and torque convertors fail during or right after a flush, most are higher mileage, less maintenance type vehicles. But I have flushed some with like 30k and then they wouldnt back out of my stall. True fluid filter change will only get 4-6 qts compared to 12-16 on a flush.

BUT for me and most transmission guys the number one reason for fluid/filter change over flushing is I want to see whats in the pan, not flush it back into the transmission. How much stuff and what kind of stuff is in the filter and on the magnet will determine if I take any long trips with it or not

So for my truck what would you recommend? I have no idea what has been done to it and it has 130k. I know when I changed the oil it was pretty nasty and had a lot of funk on the magnet drain bolt. If that is any indication I am guessing leave it alone unless I want a new tranny.

[earplug]

Do the filter change.
If you have a transmission cooler you can drain several quarts out by removing the lines.
I have added new fluid, then pumped out some of the old stuff by running the engine in drive while it on jack stands. Takes two people.
Some people claim ATF is good weapons lube. Take some under with you.

[Graves]

I've been a full time mechanic for 8yrs (former auto, current med/hvy duty), but I usually pass on side jobs unless I have a stranded family member. I don't mind helpin a friend out on occasion but I'm currently on disability for the next month and a half. If you want to save a boatload shoot me a PM as I have a friend that I work with that does side work all the time. He lives off of 112th & Colorado blvd. He's also a lurker here lol.

So for my truck what would you recommend? I have no idea what has been done to it and it has 130k. I know when I changed the oil it was pretty nasty and had a lot of funk on the magnet drain bolt. If that is any indication I am guessing leave it alone unless I want a new tranny.

Dump what's I the pan and swap the filter (top it off). Hit your T-case too, it'll be fine.

[zteknik]

I always reccomend fluid filter changes, not flushing for several reasons. Obviously the filter needs changed so thats a plus. If a transmission hasnt been properly maintained and you flush it at high mileage it usually ends up slipping soon after if it even makes it out of the shop from the flush. Lip seals get jacked, and a lot of times the only thing keeping clutch packs together is the friction material thats in the fluid. I have seen many transmissions and torque convertors fail during or right after a flush, most are higher mileage, less maintenance type vehicles. But I have flushed some with like 30k and then they wouldnt back out of my stall. True fluid filter change will only get 4-6 qts compared to 12-16 on a flush.

BUT for me and most transmission guys the number one reason for fluid/filter change over flushing is I want to see whats in the pan, not flush it back into the transmission. How much stuff and what kind of stuff is in the filter and on the magnet will determine if I take any long trips with it or not

when i worked for ford they were big on the push for the B.G tranny flushes
like you said id rather not use it on higher milage vehicles-i use to leave that deciscion up to the customer after i told them the hazards of flushing an older trans-most would decline the service
i only had 3 instances where after a flush the vehicle wouldnt move-but again the customers were forewarned 2 out of the 3 authorized rebuilding
the one just towed it out
also with every trans service i would service the t-case as well

[sniper7]

when i worked for ford they were big on the push for the B.G tranny flushes
like you said id rather not use it on higher milage vehicles-i use to leave that deciscion up to the customer after i told them the hazards of flushing an older trans-most would decline the service
i only had 3 instances where after a flush the vehicle wouldnt move-but again the customers were forewarned 2 out of the 3 authorized rebuilding
the one just towed it out
also with every trans service i would service the t-case as well

Any hazards with flushing a transfer case that you have no idea how much it was used or miles on it? it isn't a push button 4x4, its on the floor of my 1997 silverado.

[zteknik]

Any hazards with flushing a transfer case that you have no idea how much it was used or miles on it? it isn't a push button 4x4, its on the floor of my 1997 silverado.

never realy saw any issues with the manual transfer cases-just look for any chunky stuff while draining-might be a sign of a bigger problem,chipped gears and such
also goes for the electronic ones as well
you can probably get away with just 90 weight gear oil
i think the synthetic might be a bit too thin for older unknown milage applications